Just started playing with aluminum a couple days ago. Stacking beads basically.
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Got together with a couple of our county neighbors Friday for dinner and cards and mentioned that I was practicing welding some aluminum. One of them said he had a miter saw that had a broken piece and wanted to know if I could weld it. He told me that I couldn't hurt it. It's the blade shield mount. I said no guarantee but would be glad to try.
After watching a couple videos and reading a bit I decided to give it a try.
Here it is.
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It doesn't appear by the preview that my pics are in the right spot. Oh well...
Pretty much all my welding knowledge is from watching Jody. Thanks man!
Setting for saw repair:
Running a LE tig 200
15CFH with gas lens and #7 cup.
3/32" tapered 2% lanthanated electrode extended due to position.
3/32" 4043 Harris filler.
Parts and rod wiped with acetone.
125 A
No pulse.
Started on 70% EN moved to 65 after the first tack.
Freq was 100 to start, moved to 150 after first tack.
I ran across the area letting the cleaning action work before welding.
Pretty much all my welding knowledge is from watching Jody. Thanks man!
Setting for saw repair:
Running a LE tig 200
15CFH with gas lens and #7 cup.
3/32" tapered 2% lanthanated electrode extended due to position.
3/32" 4043 Harris filler.
Parts and rod wiped with acetone.
125 A
No pulse.
Started on 70% EN moved to 65 after the first tack.
Freq was 100 to start, moved to 150 after first tack.
I ran across the area letting the cleaning action work before welding.
John
Not bad at all.
Most tungsten for A.C does not have to be tapered as it will ball by itself, I have sharpened them for very fine, precise welding but they ball so fast I find it pretty much pointless.
How many times did you run over your bead after you laid it?
Pretty much all my welding knowledge is from watching Jody. Thanks man!
Setting for saw repair:
Running a LE tig 200
15CFH with gas lens and #7 cup.
3/32" tapered 2% lanthanated electrode extended due to position.
3/32" 4043 Harris filler.
Parts and rod wiped with acetone.
125 A
No pulse.
Started on 70% EN moved to 65 after the first tack.
Freq was 100 to start, moved to 150 after first tack.
I ran across the area letting the cleaning action work before welding.
John
Not bad at all.
Most tungsten for A.C does not have to be tapered as it will ball by itself, I have sharpened them for very fine, precise welding but they ball so fast I find it pretty much pointless.
How many times did you run over your bead after you laid it?
The tungsten has been staying fairly sharp for me. Not really balling at all.
I basically heated the base to slight puddle and added a bit of rod. Then smoothed it out a bit. I did 5 dabs resting in between each one for a couple minutes to cool. Then start a new spot and flow to the previous. Didn't really know what to expect lol
I wasn't concerned with cleaning up the weld because it's under a cover. I figured I would leave the bead for strength.
Pretty much all my welding knowledge is from watching Jody. Thanks man!
Setting for saw repair:
Running a LE tig 200
15CFH with gas lens and #7 cup.
3/32" tapered 2% lanthanated electrode extended due to position.
3/32" 4043 Harris filler.
Parts and rod wiped with acetone.
125 A
No pulse.
Started on 70% EN moved to 65 after the first tack.
Freq was 100 to start, moved to 150 after first tack.
I ran across the area letting the cleaning action work before welding.
John
Not bad at all.
Most tungsten for A.C does not have to be tapered as it will ball by itself, I have sharpened them for very fine, precise welding but they ball so fast I find it pretty much pointless.
How many times did you run over your bead after you laid it?
The tungsten has been staying fairly sharp for me. Not really balling at all.
I basically heated the base to slight puddle and added a bit of rod. Then smoothed it out a bit. I did 5 dabs resting in between each one for a couple minutes to cool. Then start a new spot and flow to the previous. Didn't really know what to expect lol
I wasn't concerned with cleaning up the weld because it's under a cover. I figured I would leave the bead for strength.
John
Ah, got ya.
Well, the tungsten will normally ball after a bit of welding, really not important in this case, just thought I would mention it as you will run into it eventually and it is normal.
Looks like you went over the bead a time or 2 after having put it down, just curious.
