- 20161229_212143.jpg (35.52 KiB) Viewed 1041 times
- 20161229_212113.jpg (36.46 KiB) Viewed 1041 times
- 20161229_211804.jpg (35.39 KiB) Viewed 1041 times
The top side.
The reverse.
Jakedaawg
- Jakedaawg
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:45 pm
-
Location:Near Traverse City, Mi.
.120 aluminum.
5356 3/32 filler
130a on the pedal don't think I hit full pedal
3/32e3 tungsten blunt ground with a small flat spot.
~15 on the flow meter
Gas lens #7 cup
You can see on the set up that there was about a 1/32 gap at the end that tapered to tight at the beginning
I am trying to replicate repair ing cracks in pontoons.
I have measured several of my practice toons and the very from .080 to .120 in thickness.
5356 3/32 filler
130a on the pedal don't think I hit full pedal
3/32e3 tungsten blunt ground with a small flat spot.
~15 on the flow meter
Gas lens #7 cup
You can see on the set up that there was about a 1/32 gap at the end that tapered to tight at the beginning
I am trying to replicate repair ing cracks in pontoons.
I have measured several of my practice toons and the very from .080 to .120 in thickness.
Miller Dynasty 280 DX, Lincoln 210 MP, More tools than I have boxes for and a really messy shop.
Jakedaawg
- Jakedaawg
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:45 pm
-
Location:Near Traverse City, Mi.
Would appreciate comments both positive but more so on the critical side. Polite would be nice but I'll take all comers
Miller Dynasty 280 DX, Lincoln 210 MP, More tools than I have boxes for and a really messy shop.
exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 25, 2014 9:25 am
-
Location:near Chicago
Well you're getting good penetration, that's for sure but your bead needs more re-enforcement so add a bit more filler. You can get good penetration and get the bead thicker by backing up your torch a hair when you add filler. It looks like you aren't pausing but just moving forward and adding filler but you are doing a fine job. You have come a long way in a short time.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
I'd echo some of what Nail says. I'd say you're getting too much penetration. Halfway through that bead, your travel speed picked up too fast. Maybe back off the heat a bit, slow down to get the "right" amount of penetration without bulging through so much. There's no downside to welding slowly as long as the heat is not too high. Dab, loiter, advance, dab. This allows you to get the puddle fused in on the toes, and the aluminum puddle to penetrate (suck down) and then move. It will keep you reducing the heat and not overworking the base metal.
But as has been said, that's awfully good looking welds for someone new to aluminum TIG!
But as has been said, that's awfully good looking welds for someone new to aluminum TIG!
Jakedaawg
- Jakedaawg
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:45 pm
-
Location:Near Traverse City, Mi.
Could whomever mentioned that butt welds on thinner stuff are easier please expand on their thoughts.I am try .063 5052 sheet butt welds and having a he'll of a time getting a puddle without key holes or the toes not wetting in. Going to switch to 1/16" fillers and tungsten.
Miller Dynasty 280 DX, Lincoln 210 MP, More tools than I have boxes for and a really messy shop.
Jakedaawg
- Jakedaawg
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:45 pm
-
Location:Near Traverse City, Mi.
Maybe I should not have jumped from .120 to. 063. I'll order some ~.080 and ~.100 alum sheet.
Listen guys, if I am gonna order aluminum I may as well order a marine pontoon grade. Would 5052 be a reasonable choice?
Listen guys, if I am gonna order aluminum I may as well order a marine pontoon grade. Would 5052 be a reasonable choice?
Miller Dynasty 280 DX, Lincoln 210 MP, More tools than I have boxes for and a really messy shop.
exnailpounder
- exnailpounder
-
Weldmonger
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Thu Dec 25, 2014 9:25 am
-
Location:near Chicago
5000 series would do it. Would be a match for your filler.Jakedaawg wrote:Maybe I should not have jumped from .120 to. 063. I'll order some ~.080 and ~.100 alum sheet.
Listen guys, if I am gonna order aluminum I may as well order a marine pontoon grade. Would 5052 be a reasonable choice?
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Jakedaawg
- Jakedaawg
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:45 pm
-
Location:Near Traverse City, Mi.
On a side note....
I have the miller dynasty 280dx with the watercooled 20 series torch that came with it.
I am going to buy a CK 20 series flex torch for it. I under stand that it will fit on the cables and hoses I already have. Is there an online retailer you all recommend? I have been searching with google and am having a hard time finding someone that sells just the torch and handle assembly. Everything seems to come with the hoses which I already have.
I have the miller dynasty 280dx with the watercooled 20 series torch that came with it.
I am going to buy a CK 20 series flex torch for it. I under stand that it will fit on the cables and hoses I already have. Is there an online retailer you all recommend? I have been searching with google and am having a hard time finding someone that sells just the torch and handle assembly. Everything seems to come with the hoses which I already have.
Miller Dynasty 280 DX, Lincoln 210 MP, More tools than I have boxes for and a really messy shop.
Went through my order folder, here's the places I've bought from over the past few years and had good experience. I don't just buy tig stuff, so some of these might not address the stuff you're looking for:Jakedaawg wrote: Is there an online retailer you all recommend?
cyberweld.com
usaweld.com
atlweldingsupply.com
americantorchtip.com/wp-content/flip/TigFlip/
Lincoln Square Wave 200
Lincoln 225 AC/DC
Harris Oxy/Acetylene torch
Lincoln 225 AC/DC
Harris Oxy/Acetylene torch
For thin stuff, don't start the weld on the edge and unless the fitup is flawless and you jam a lot of heat really quickly to join them, join with filler - lay the rod over the joint, point the torch at the rod tip, jam the pedal until it wets in and walk it forward. To be safe, you can start a puddle width or two away from the edge, then once the rod wets in, back step it to the edge as you add rod, then motor forward.
On the Dynasty, you can try pulse. I had a lot of success doing 040 aluminum using the pulser, I could join it with no filler and then go over the fused joint with filler. Try 150pps, 30% on, 5% background. You'll need to use higher amps than usual obviously but I found this really keeps the heat superficial even on the thinnest stuff.
On the Dynasty, you can try pulse. I had a lot of success doing 040 aluminum using the pulser, I could join it with no filler and then go over the fused joint with filler. Try 150pps, 30% on, 5% background. You'll need to use higher amps than usual obviously but I found this really keeps the heat superficial even on the thinnest stuff.