Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
So I just bought the Lincoln SW200 and I am learning to TIG. Today is my first time with aluminum, and it is one hell of a learning curve. WAY different than steel. 3/32" E3 tungsten sharpened to a fairly blunt point, 120hz, balance at 73%, 1/16" 4043 filler rod. I started with bead on plate with some 1/16" plate, playing with how to initiate the puddle and travel speed. Quite a bit different, and the cleaning is really neat to watch (yeah, I know I have issues). Then I tried it on 1/8" plate with better results, but I'm thinking I need some 3/32" filler for 1/8" material- I couldn't keep up feeding the filler. Then I cut the 1/16" into 3 pieces and tried putting them together. Tacking is a bit tricky, but I would jab some filler into it, then puddle it to avoid clipping the edges. Worked OK I guess, unless I am missing something. When it came to the butt weld, I again had a hard time keeping up with the filler. Anyways, back to the garage to attempt more......
Lincoln MP210
Lincoln SW200
Lincoln SW200
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You have a couple decent beads there..not bad for your first foray into aluminum. You said it best...aluminum is way different than steel and now you know why. You have to be doing everything right to weld aluminum whereas steel will let you off the hook if you shit the bed. It's all about technique and practice...you'll do fine.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Played around a little more last night, and it is coming down to it cannot outrun the heat. I'm going to try some 3/32" and maybe 5356 filler. It supposedly doesn't wet out as easily as 4043, I guess I'll find out.....
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Lincoln MP210
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Lincoln SW200
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That's what your pedal is for. You need to back off the amps as you weld because heat is building and as you are nearing the end of your coupon, the heat has nowhere to escape to and thats when you need to be throttling down the amps. Also 1/16" filler is a pain in the ass on thicker metal unless you're really good at feeding rod. I weld almost everything with 3/32" 4043. Another tip is when you practice, don't be afraid to quench your coupon so your metal isn't so pre-heated and won't run away on you so quick.
Your one butt weld looks pretty good. I assume your machine is an inverter. I use 2% lanthanated and sharpen to a medium length point and let it ball however it's going to ball and it allows for a thinner bead on aluminum which is more controllable. I tried E3 once and it seemed to ball the same. You also need to be watching your arc length so you don't up the voltage and add too much heat. Makes things go bad faster.
I know everyone says to watch Jody's vids but he makes it look so easy that I think sometimes new guys get the idea that it is really easy for anyone but welding aluminum for Jody IS really easy because he is doing everything right. You know how to get to Carnegie Hall don't ya?
Your one butt weld looks pretty good. I assume your machine is an inverter. I use 2% lanthanated and sharpen to a medium length point and let it ball however it's going to ball and it allows for a thinner bead on aluminum which is more controllable. I tried E3 once and it seemed to ball the same. You also need to be watching your arc length so you don't up the voltage and add too much heat. Makes things go bad faster.
I know everyone says to watch Jody's vids but he makes it look so easy that I think sometimes new guys get the idea that it is really easy for anyone but welding aluminum for Jody IS really easy because he is doing everything right. You know how to get to Carnegie Hall don't ya?
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
Thanks. I started quenching towards the end, and I will get some 3/32 rod- it just seems logical that it will help control the heat a little more. I guess I need to let up on the pedal a lot more at the end- in other words, pay more attention to what the puddle looks like vs how much I "should" be letting up. If that makes any sense.
Lincoln MP210
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Thicker rod does control heat but not as much on aluminum as other metals because it conducts heat so well and you have to pour the coals to it to maintain a puddle. Pedal control is so important especially when coming to an edge on any metal but especially aluminum. Also, you want to watch that crater at the end of your bead, feather that pedal a little and add a couple extra dabs of filler but don't hang around in there too long or you will lose control of your puddle. Just take it all with a grain of salt as you WILL be welding aluminum before you know it. It will click in your head one day and you will wonder why you made it so hard on yourself. This is potty training right now but you will get itSaz wrote:Thanks. I started quenching towards the end, and I will get some 3/32 rod- it just seems logical that it will help control the heat a little more. I guess I need to let up on the pedal a lot more at the end- in other words, pay more attention to what the puddle looks like vs how much I "should" be letting up. If that makes any sense.
Ifyoucantellmewhatthissaysiwillbuyyouabeer.
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