[Cbking]

Can't say what there for but helping put these together. All 3/4" plate. They be about 12' long.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rick_H]

Sweet, you have to TIG them?

[Rick_H]

Little cup walking 316L stainless sanitary

Here's a link to the video on my IG account

https://www.instagram.com/p/BKzRxOhDVX2/

[LtBadd]

Little cup walking 316L stainless sanitary

Here's a link to the video on my IG account

https://www.instagram.com/p/BKzRxOhDVX2/

Nice weld, interesting in that I haven't seen someone walking the cup towards themselves like that, also your angle looked steep, not being critical and it obviously works for you! Is that butted with one pass?

[Rick_H]

Little cup walking 316L stainless sanitary

Here's a link to the video on my IG account

https://www.instagram.com/p/BKzRxOhDVX2/

Nice weld, interesting in that I haven't seen someone walking the cup towards themselves like that, also your angle looked steep, not being critical and it obviously works for you! Is that butted with one pass?

Are you picking on me I have found if I don't stay steep angle on the polished sanitary tube it slips a lot easier on me and I feel it gives me a better more consistent penetration. I cut the video down, the first part where I start at 6 oclock and work my way up, then while walking the cup I reposition my body to the other side of the pipe (which you see in video). If I'm doing something with a gap I have more stick out and a lot more angle, also gives me room to get filler in. I use to just do straight pulls ad while it polished out fine I felt like I was putting too much heat into the stainless so I figured I could drop back the amps a little and walk the cup...always trying something a little different, no pulse either. The 1.50" .065" wall stuff I can pulse do a straight pull and weld with my foot if I needed to and know that it is good. The 4" pipe steps up to .083" wall which has given me problems with penetration at the speed I like to weld, I cant crank the heat up anymore or Ill have other issues. I hate cutting joints out and ruining fittings.

Yes that is butted, backpurged full pen, 1 pass.

[LtBadd]

Are you picking on me I have found if I don't stay steep angle on the polished sanitary tube it slips a lot easier on me and I feel it gives me a better more consistent penetration. I hate cutting joints out and ruining fittings.

Yes that is butted, backpurged full pen, 1 pass.

That makes sense, I'm all for whatever works and I know that the surface finish on the sanitary tubing is very smooth compared to pipe.
Thanks for the video, as someone who doesn't do that kind of work very often I like to see others technique

[maker of things]

Some fishing projects. Some tabs onto an old hand truck to make an outboard cart.

IMG_20160925_085837638.jpg (65.81 KiB) Viewed 2535 times

Also modified a Dierks center mount anchor davit into a side mount. Required cutting down nearly 20 year old alum casting and welding it to angle iron.

IMG_20160925_113738923_HDR.jpg (59.86 KiB) Viewed 2535 times

[ScottFc3s]

Adding some spinners to our two main production bioreactors.

[Rick_H]

Nice Job Scott

[ScottFc3s]

Thanks Rick. Here they are all mounted up to the spray arms. I need to pick up one of those nice big 12+ cups one day.




What settings do you use for .083 wall tubing? I'm still pretty new (< 1 year) and most of our tubing is under 2". The couple large diameter pieces I've done I've welded them on the inside as well but would like to one pass this 6" solid waste line I have on my table.

[Rick_H]

What settings do you use for .083 wall tubing? I'm still pretty new (< 1 year) and most of our tubing is under 2". The couple large diameter pieces I've done I've welded them on the inside as well but would like to one pass this 6" solid waste line I have on my table.

The big cups do help with gas coverage, I use the CK gasaver on my sanitary stuff, 316L, full pen, backpurge, 1/16" tung (if I pulse 2.5pps, 50% peak/50%background 55amps), not pulsing straight pulls 45amps.

The .083" can be tricky to get all the way through, I am still perfecting my settings but right now the stuff I weld in that wall is 4" diameter, I do same full pen, backpurge, 1/16" tung 45-50amps walking the cup, I get through on straight pulls at 50amps as well but have to really watch my speed, I like to move a little fast. I'm getting ready to start setting up some in a few mins, and have to do a qualifying piece Ill post stuff later

[Rick_H]

.065" wall, 1.50" repair from yesterday...sometimes you just have to make stuff fit existing frame work and piping.

[ScottFc3s]

Nice piping Rick, modifying existing is always a gamble. Sometimes it works out nice, sometimes you gotta scoot some equipment and sometimes it just ends up a maze.

I was wrong about the 6" tube, it's .109 wall not .083 wall. Suggested settings for that thickness?

I use very similar parameters for .065 wall as you do and will try that for .083 but .109 is pretty thick.

[Rick_H]

That's sch 10, typical my I'll put a bevel on it and tack, then backpurge and use 3/32" filler..you can get full penetration easier that way.

You can weld sch 10 butted but you have to crank it up to get through.

[MosquitoMoto]

Something unglamorous but useful.

Built this engine stand so that a brain injured guy my wife works with can safely work with this little engine without fear of it tumbling around and crushing his hands. It's a kind of therapy for him - he has an engineering background but post-injury moves quite slowly and has limited use of one hand.

Built with 25 X 25mm square tube with 3mm wall thickness. Running around 130 amps, (pedal) 30% cleaning, between 80-120Hz depending on joint. 2.4mm 2% Lanth tungsten, #6 cup on a stubby gas lens, size 17 air cooled torch.

Tig finger got a real workout. Project gave me lots of practise at out-of-position work, sitting, standing, the lot.

Not something for the Welding Hall of Fame, but it sure kept me thinking - no bead longer than 25mm (around 1 inch). I find short beads quite challenging.

EDIT - from here the engine will be fully disassembled, cleaned, and I'll write a guide leaflet so that they brain injured guy can work with it all.


Kym

[Rick_H]

Awesome Kym....

[sedanman]

Bravo Kym, bravo.

[Coldman]

Good work Kymbo,
sometimes these are the best jobs because you know it means a lot to the person using it, he appreciates your work and you know he's going to get good use out it. Great feeling.

[MosquitoMoto]

Good work Kymbo,
sometimes these are the best jobs because you know it means a lot to the person using it, he appreciates your work and you know he's going to get good use out it. Great feeling.

That's it Coldie. One more guy on the road to recovery who will get to tinker with something he enjoys during Occupational Therapy, instead of putting together kid's puzzles.



Kym

[ex framie]

Nice work Kym, its useful and you learned something and it helps out someone.
Don't get much better than that.

[Harry72]

Nice work Kym, very good karma mate

[exnailpounder]

I have always had a great admiration for people who take time from their busy day to help someone else along. My hats off to you Kym,

[maker of things]

Nice work Kym.

[MosquitoMoto]

Thanks for the kind words guys.

It's no biggie; I am brain injured myself but made a very good recovery, really dodged a bullet. All I am doing is a tiny thing to help those who weren't so lucky. (While I indulge my love of engines and welding... )



Kym

[Jim FLinchbaugh]

Buddy of mine bought a wall tent/stove package. He managed to break off on hinge on the stove door and it had a crack as well. Old, snotty wood gunk saturated, cast iron.
Watch Jody's video on tiggigng cast with aluminum bronze. Ordered rod and had a go.
it aint purdy but it worked! there was enough black sticky crap came outta that iron to seal a fence post!

prepped

Ugly but do-able