Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Post Reply
mr 32
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:22 pm

finally ordered my large pyrex gas lense for my wp-20 and wanted a little help with set up

ive read that an extra diffuser makes these work really well
but my question in does it go between the screen and adaptor (in the middle) or in front to the diffuser mesh (to the left)

Image
NT Unique

Not sure where you'd fit one in, surely once it's defused it's defused. I think that the WP20 torches struggle with gas flow to start with due to their size, I would not be adding extra restrictions.
On another note, let us know how it goes. Be real keen to hear your opinion on them, I know Jody didn't particularly rate them but we are all individuals. Also pic's are good :D

Cheers
capozzoli
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:07 pm

An extra diffuser does work really well for 'reaching'. I have never used that gas lens but Im gonna guess in front to the left. I used to weld a lot with one that was similar. I used a (I cant remember what number cup) 1-1/2 cup. Ten I cut a piece of clean scotch-brite pad the dia. of the cup so that it would fit inside. Then centered it and pushed it over the tungsten and into the cup. With the gas turned up I could get three inches of protrusion with the tungsten. With that I could reach deep into really tight areas to weld.
Welding everything from the crack of dawn to a broken heart.
NT Unique

Holy crap Caps, three inches! That's incredible!
Good thing we know what were talking about ay, my wife can't seem to understand why I'm getting excited about three inches getting deep into tight areas :lol:

How long dose the scotch pad last with the heat?

Cheers
capozzoli
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:07 pm

Oh yeah man, 3". ya gotta use one of those really wide dia cups though.

Long and wide then ya can go really deep....MMMM penetration!

The scotch bright pad is unaffected really. Cause the heat is all down at the end of the tungsten. Though it will start melting around the tungsten when you have a shorter stick out.

I used it a lot on aluminum truss work were a tube saddled another at an extreme angle, if you can imagine.

Also on some complicated SS stuff that I had to reach inside of.
Welding everything from the crack of dawn to a broken heart.
mr 32
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:22 pm

finally got a chance to set this up

now maybe im missing something but if i try to use the gas lense insulator, the gas lense thread isnt long enough :?:

any ideas what im missing?
mr 32
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:22 pm

Image
here is the setup, end up giving it a go without the insulator didnt have any leaks so i gave it a quick go on some stainless


Image
looking forward to haveing a play with it for a few hours next week
deering
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Oct 29, 2010 6:54 pm

In order to use the gas lense insulator you have to remove the small insulator from the the torch head. Then it should work really well
Bradshaw106
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Mon Mar 19, 2012 1:01 pm

I never understood what the gas lenses was for? Sorry for the hijack...
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:59 pm
  • Location:
    Australia; Victoria

Hi,

They are to make the gas flow out of the torch in and ultra smooth blanket. Not swirling like normal cups/shrouds. For high quality work or materials that require extra shielding, like titanium.

Mick
RedIron881
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:29 am
  • Location:
    Phoenix, AZ

Hey Guys,

I'm new to this forum, really any forums, but thought it would be fun to chat about welding.

The Pyrex cup should have came with a larger insulator. In my book if you're welding on DC you should have a Gas Lens. Just works so much better. The Pyrex ones are nice and have their place but just the normal gas lenses work. I use a #8 cup for just about everything.
Too bad most of this weld gets machined or hand finished off...
Too bad most of this weld gets machined or hand finished off...
Optimized-IMG_1438.JPG (105.01 KiB) Viewed 1478 times
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
  • Location:
    Near New Orleans

That's a nice bead. Looks like a chrome centipede.

I agree. It's a shame to see that machined down.

Steve
ajlskater1
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:32 am

really nice bead.
jakeru
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sun Apr 25, 2010 3:30 pm

mr32:
I noticed that your torch is a weldcraft brand. Just wanted to chime in with something I've noticed, is that CK's torches use a proprietary style of teflon cup insulator that is not compatible with non-CK brand torches.

So if there is anything wrong with the teflon insulator in your setup (maybe there isn't?) you might want to look at if any weldcraft telfon insulators are available to do what you're looking for an insulator to do.
mr 32
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:22 pm

thanks jakeru

i bought the gas lense kit from arc zone specially for the weldcaft torch, everything i have tried has been interchangable.
the problem i had as was said earlier was removing the standard insulator for the large pyrex gas lense, but that was my fault thinking it was like a large body tig torch
Post Reply