Hi Gang
I got the EXT 210 up and running and ran my very 1st couple of beads without filler material using lift arc start so I can get used to how to do it. Below is a pic of what I put down. The top 3 were done at 60amps with the bottom 2 adjusted to 65amps.
The steel is 3/16th. Looking forward to your advice.
That's fine for just practicing and getting the feel/hang of things. I bet it took long to get that puddle initialized on 0.187" with the amperage that one usually uses on 0.060-0.080". Practice is key to get a good consistent rythm going. Finger and hand dexterity go a long ways to creating new muscle memory.
Last edited by Oscar on Sun Jun 26, 2016 6:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Oscar wrote:That's fine for just practicing and getting the feel/hang of things. I bet it took long to get that puddle initializes on 0.187" with the amperage that one usually uses on 0.060-0.080". Practice is key to get a good consistent rythm going. Finger and hand dexterity go a long ways to creating new muscle memory.
It did take a bit for the puddle to initialize, was a bit nervous and was inching my way upwards current wise.
Attached is what I was able to accomplish today, I learned so much when I cranked it up, Not letting the metal cool causing warpage and undercut on the next weld because the metal is already hot, being to high from the work piece and losing the argon shielding, the best way for me to start the lift arc (pretty tough & temperamental), developing a good puddle and being able to follow it, maintaining an arc (not that bad). Need to keep practicing, the one thing I'm finding a real hinderance is how bulky the 26 size torch is which is making it difficult to make consistently straight beads, also getting pretty good at regrinding the tungsten, messed it up twice today.
If you all can let me know where and what to do to correct the problems you'll see below.
I tried the HF start and found it to work a treat but I thought it was safer to use lift arc on vehicles so I figured I would start with the more difficult way to start the arc.
I tried the HF start and found it to work a treat but I thought it was safer to use lift arc on vehicles so I figured I would start with the more difficult way to start the arc.
You can use HF on vehicles. Some guys will tell you to disconnect the battery before you weld on a car but I believe if you ground out very close to your weld area youll be ok. I weld on all kinds of machinery with sensitive electronics and I have never fried anything. For the minute it takes to disconnect a car battery, I would suggest it to be safe but the whole HF frying electronics is mostly a myth. Maybe Sam(greintime) will weigh in on this, thats his bag.
I tried the HF start and found it to work a treat but I thought it was safer to use lift arc on vehicles so I figured I would start with the more difficult way to start the arc.
You can use HF on vehicles. Some guys will tell you to disconnect the battery before you weld on a car but I believe if you ground out very close to your weld area youll be ok. I weld on all kinds of machinery with sensitive electronics and I have never fried anything. For the minute it takes to disconnect a car battery, I would suggest it to be safe but the whole HF frying electronics is mostly a myth. Maybe Sam(greintime) will weigh in on this, thats his bag.
Good info, when I can actually get to a point where I can what I'm doing welding that's what I'll do. I want to fabricate a few brackets for various mounting points for equipment I want to mount to my bike.
I welded a new front subframe tab onto a CBR600RR a week or two ago. Attached ground clamp just a couple inches from area I was welding on.
Used HF start. Quite a bit of welding time on the bike, lots of stopping and starting. Repair now finished, bike starts and does everything it ever did - no nightmare scrambled ECU or any such thing.
MosquitoMoto wrote:Regarding HF and welding on vehicles/bikes;
I welded a new front subframe tab onto a CBR600RR a week or two ago. Attached ground clamp just a couple inches from area I was welding on.
Used HF start. Quite a bit of welding time on the bike, lots of stopping and starting. Repair now finished, bike starts and does everything it ever did - no nightmare scrambled ECU or any such thing.
Kym
Kool. I'll probably start using the HF Start today after work it's so much more convenient (easier) at least I understand how to get an arc with lift arc and can actually do it.
Not bad. Now you just need seat time and you will be good. In regards to frying electronics...I can't be sure it was the HF start on my welder that affected my phone but the 2 times my digitizer went bad, I had my phone on my welding table or in my pocket. The digitizer is the thingy that lets you scroll and everything with your fingers. Phone worked fine but I couldn't control or answer it. The place I took it for repairs told me a very high static discharge could damage it or even a low voltage shock. Coincidence or not but at $200 a pop, my phone sits in my toolbox now while I weld.
exnailpounder wrote:Not bad. Now you just need seat time and you will be good. In regards to frying electronics...I can't be sure it was the HF start on my welder that affected my phone but the 2 times my digitizer went bad, I had my phone on my welding table or in my pocket. The digitizer is the thingy that lets you scroll and everything with your fingers. Phone worked fine but I couldn't control or answer it. The place I took it for repairs told me a very high static discharge could damage it or even a low voltage shock. Coincidence or not but at $200 a pop, my phone sits in my toolbox now while I weld.
Thanks for the heads up about the phones, I had both of mine right next to the welder, I think I'll put them on the workbench away from the welding.
I'm gonna try to practice a little each day, this is my 2nd day of welding and am finding it to be a blast and relaxing.
exnailpounder wrote:Not bad. Now you just need seat time and you will be good. In regards to frying electronics...I can't be sure it was the HF start on my welder that affected my phone but the 2 times my digitizer went bad, I had my phone on my welding table or in my pocket. The digitizer is the thingy that lets you scroll and everything with your fingers. Phone worked fine but I couldn't control or answer it. The place I took it for repairs told me a very high static discharge could damage it or even a low voltage shock. Coincidence or not but at $200 a pop, my phone sits in my toolbox now while I weld.
Thanks for the heads up about the phones, I had both of mine right next to the welder, I think I'll put them on the workbench away from the welding.
I'm gonna try to practice a little each day, this is my 2nd day of welding and am finding it to be a blast and relaxing.
Sorry, off topic -
But if you are wrecking phones, get your parts from ebay and go to ifixit.com for repair guides. I must have fixed a dozen phones by now - it's easy.
exnailpounder wrote:Not bad. Now you just need seat time and you will be good. In regards to frying electronics...I can't be sure it was the HF start on my welder that affected my phone but the 2 times my digitizer went bad, I had my phone on my welding table or in my pocket. The digitizer is the thingy that lets you scroll and everything with your fingers. Phone worked fine but I couldn't control or answer it. The place I took it for repairs told me a very high static discharge could damage it or even a low voltage shock. Coincidence or not but at $200 a pop, my phone sits in my toolbox now while I weld.
Thanks for the heads up about the phones, I had both of mine right next to the welder, I think I'll put them on the workbench away from the welding.
I'm gonna try to practice a little each day, this is my 2nd day of welding and am finding it to be a blast and relaxing.
Sorry, off topic -
But if you are wrecking phones, get your parts from ebay and go to ifixit.com for repair guides. I must have fixed a dozen phones by now - it's easy.
(I have teenage daughters...)
Kym
Not a problem, i have 2 daughters myself 10 and 12years old with the 12yr old having a phone and the 10yr old soon. LOL
Not bad! You are getting the moves down. Your OS corner weld looks ok. It looks like you may be getting out of position quickly based on those start/stops. Something that really helped me to be steady and do longer runs was I have a bunch of short 2x4s and such that I use to get myself comfortable on a weld. I can stack them in any combination I need to get me steady. I hold the torch like a pencil so I like being above the weld a certain way. You will figure out how you are gonna hold the torch and what position makes you the most comfortable. I sometimes even hold the cup like a pencil for short welds. Take advantage of welding at a bench and get yourself in a good position and do a dry run to see how far you can weld before you get out of position. Jody does that alot in his videos. There are also threads around here of guys that make welding positioners for their benches. Nice job...you're on your way. Don't forget to enjoy the learning process too.
You are making good process. Concentrate on getting comfortable, from how you sit to how you hold the torch. Get plenty of seat time and you'll see progress fast.
Oh, I also keep welding notes with photos. Very helpful as a reference, and whenever I think I am going nowhere I just take a look at photos of beads I was running 6 months ago and it cheers me up no end!
Thanks guys. I'm definitely finding it to be a challenge to get into a comfortable position and do find myself out of position pretty quick, something I have to work on. One thing for sure is I'm enjoying the learning process, i find my time behind the torch calming & relaxing.
Practice is key to get a good consistent rythm going. Finger and hand dexterity go a long ways to creating new muscle memory.
