I am trying to lap weld/tack .017 SS using older Miller Syncrowave 350. I'm thinking around 20 amps is max for main amp control. What should background, pps and peak controls be set on. I think you can take from one and give to another to adjust your bead I just haven't found those magic numbers.
.017? Is that some kinda SS foil? I think you may be way high at 20 amps, even on pulse.
Rick_H seems to be the stainless guru around here and just showed me how to effectively use the pulse setrings on my machine for thin ss. There are a lot of good SS weldors here but this guy has that something extra. Mine is nowhere near as thin as yours but I'm sure he can give you some guidance if you ask. The settings that he gave me make the welder do the work and all I have to do is move the torch. I thought those pulse settings were a bunch of fancy BS until a couple of days ago when I really got schooled.
See here, about halfway down the page:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... 7&start=50
Rick_H seems to be the stainless guru around here and just showed me how to effectively use the pulse setrings on my machine for thin ss. There are a lot of good SS weldors here but this guy has that something extra. Mine is nowhere near as thin as yours but I'm sure he can give you some guidance if you ask. The settings that he gave me make the welder do the work and all I have to do is move the torch. I thought those pulse settings were a bunch of fancy BS until a couple of days ago when I really got schooled.
See here, about halfway down the page:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... 7&start=50
Raymond
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT
.017" is super thin 27 gauge?, The older 350LX Syncro I use really isn't great down around 3-5 amps. I welded some .020 spring steel once at 13amps, straight (no pulse) .040" tugsten, corner joint and ran a piece of bronze as my backer.
Id crank it down as low as it goes and see what it does if you need to run an actual lap bead, if not and you want to use pulse the older Snyc's only do up to 10pps, I like 25% background and 75% peak, it tends to keep the puddle a little more fluid and works for the speeds I prefer to weld at. I know Jody does a 30%, 30% and 30pps.
If you don't need to run a long lap and tacking will work, speed tacking should work try 25amps
I don't have any stainless that thin to try out, but when I repair stainless tanks at the pressed areas that are thin, Ive blown holes at 10amps as soon as the arc hits.
Pics always help if you have any...
Id crank it down as low as it goes and see what it does if you need to run an actual lap bead, if not and you want to use pulse the older Snyc's only do up to 10pps, I like 25% background and 75% peak, it tends to keep the puddle a little more fluid and works for the speeds I prefer to weld at. I know Jody does a 30%, 30% and 30pps.
If you don't need to run a long lap and tacking will work, speed tacking should work try 25amps
I don't have any stainless that thin to try out, but when I repair stainless tanks at the pressed areas that are thin, Ive blown holes at 10amps as soon as the arc hits.Pics always help if you have any...
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
Yeah it's thin. They are heatshields for aircraft wheels and brakes. Like your reply says, if you hesitate just a little you are going to blow a hole and that makes it a PITA to repair. I was thinking a series of close tacks, that was why I wanted to perfect the pulse settings. I have used straight tig at 11 amps but I have to run with it.
That really sounds like a job for a surgeon's loupe instead of a cheater lense. You would see trouble happening a lot faster wih something like this. I have no idea what they cost though:
http://www.surgitel.com/loupes
http://www.surgitel.com/loupes
Raymond
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT