capping 4" sch 10 stainless pipe

duckhunter27 · Wed Jan 20, 2016 8:09 pm

Ok guys i need some of your top shelf expertise. When i cap this 4 " stainless schd 10 pipe , im getting some good color but not alot . (No pictures) . Here's the run down miller trailblazer 325d , 26 flexneck torch , 1/8 large gas lens, 2% thoriated tungsten, 12 cup , 30cfh beings im in a basement with a draft . I do have a couple welding screens up . No matter what i tried it wont get any better.

Poland308 · Wed Jan 20, 2016 8:28 pm

How many amps? What size filler rod?

LtBadd · Wed Jan 20, 2016 9:03 pm

duckhunter27 wrote:Ok guys i need some of your top shelf expertise. When i cap this 4 " stainless schd 10 pipe , im getting some good color but not alot . (No pictures) . Here's the run down miller trailblazer 325d , 26 flexneck torch , 1/8 large gas lens, 2% thoriated tungsten, 12 cup , 30cfh beings im in a basement with a draft . I do have a couple welding screens up . No matter what i tried it wont get any better.

You don't say what color you're getting that you consider "not" good. Color is actually an indication of contamination, straw or gold and blue are considered normal and acceptable.

If your getting a gray or darker then that's an indication of a lack of shielding, whether its do to welding too hot or a draft causing a loss of the shielding.

duckhunter27 · Wed Jan 20, 2016 9:29 pm

Sorry about that 80 to 90 amps 3/32 filler rod . Its pretty gray , some have reds and blues with some gold

Rick_H · Wed Jan 20, 2016 11:29 pm

Don't get too caught up in color, while color is "a" indicator a slight gray color does not mean all is lost.... What does it look like once brushed or pickled?

@Markus

duckhunter27 · Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:20 am

Its nice and Shiney when brushed .

Poland308 · Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:24 am

Probably nothing wrong. You could try to use 1/8 rod might help spread out the heat a little. Is it new pipe or used?

Rick_H · Thu Jan 21, 2016 9:38 am

Sounds fine to me then. Post a pic if you can...

duckhunter27 · Thu Jan 21, 2016 9:42 am

All brand new pipe , ill try and get a pic for you guys . Thanks

duckhunter27 · Sat Jan 23, 2016 10:15 pm

This isn't the cap of course but it looks the exact same . I think its a gas issue. Im running 30 to 45 cfh and can barley feel the gas coming out the lens .

LtBadd · Sat Jan 23, 2016 10:46 pm

duckhunter27 wrote:This isn't the cap of course but it looks the exact same . I think its a gas issue. Im running 30 to 45 cfh and can barley feel the gas coming out the lens .

30 to 45 cfh is too much, should be 15 to 20, check for a leak at all connections, or a pin hole in the torch hose.

duckhunter27 · Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:01 pm

Im in a basement with a pretty good draft . Everytbing is brand new as well torch , all consumables , regulator, gas hose and welding machine. I will try turning it down and check for leaks .

wickedone · Sat Jan 30, 2016 12:42 pm

To Me it looks like you didn't prep the pipe properly before you started. When I do a pressure weld I take all the mill scale off inside and out so I don't drag the scale into the weld. Are you purging the inside??

duckhunter27 · Mon Feb 08, 2016 11:31 pm

Yes I'm purging with a purge balloon,also having this problem when doing the tie in , it doesn't seem to want to flow , it just balls up .

LtBadd · Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:14 am

duckhunter27 wrote:Yes I'm purging with a purge balloon,also having this problem when doing the tie in , it doesn't seem to want to flow , it just balls up .

It looks like when you stopped you didn't get good gas shielding, so when you resumed the weld the filler didn't want to flow. Perhaps your post flow is too short or you're removing the torch before the weld has cooled.
Before starting you'll need to clean this

weldingt · Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:20 am

There may be a couple of things that are going on. The contour of the bead seems a bit erratic which could indicate you are struggling with consistent travel speed and controlling the puddle.

I would concentrate more on the shape/appearance of that weld more than the "color".

Get in a position is which you can move the torch around the pipe comfortable and consistently, even if its just for a 30-60 degree section.

Just an opinion to add to some of the other good ones provided.

weldingt · Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:25 am

Now that I see some other pictures, removing the oxide layer from around your weld area can also help with the bead wetting out. Clean em up some if you are looking to improve the appearance.

duckhunter27 · Tue Feb 09, 2016 9:57 am

LtBadd wrote:
duckhunter27 wrote:Yes I'm purging with a purge balloon,also having this problem when doing the tie in , it doesn't seem to want to flow , it just balls up .
It looks like when you stopped you didn't get good gas shielding, so when you resumed the weld the filler didn't want to flow. Perhaps your post flow is too short or you're removing the torch before the weld has cooled.
Before starting you'll need to clean this

after I stop I leave the torch on the weld till the area isn't glowing red any longer , I'm using a 26 style flex neck with a valve so it pouring gas at a rate of about 45 to 50 Cfh due to I'm in an extremely drafty basement , thanks again for all the advice

Rick_H · Tue Feb 09, 2016 1:39 pm

That is a little weird, I can see a pretty consistent walking pattern, then it goes into the weirdness. What's the purge pressure?

Looks like the torch angle is off in that area. Is it always the same position on the piping?

duckhunter27 · Tue Feb 09, 2016 10:41 pm

Rick H it's generally where there is a a stop and start at , i wish I could video it for you guys to show you . It literally looks like it balls up and doesn't want to flow in just ball up . The purge pressure is around 10 to 15 . Yes always same position, I'm sure it's the operator and not material just wanna figure it out before it drives me insane lol .

Poland308 · Tue Feb 09, 2016 11:02 pm

Once you have the joint almost welded you could probably back down on the purge. I've had a few times I've had someone actually shut the purge off just before I close the last of the gap.

Rick_H · Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:08 am

Poland308 wrote:Once you have the joint almost welded you could probably back down on the purge. I've had a few times I've had someone actually shut the purge off just before I close the last of the gap.

Kinda my thoughts too but depending on the length of the pipe and vent hole those flow #s don't seem to far off. Ive had to back my purge down on some sanitary stuff for the same reason, but its no filler. Since this is pipe with a root, fill and cap I'm skeptical the purge is the issue but figured Id touch all bases..lol

Since it is where a start and stop is maybe its contamination but the weld doesn't look horrible. If you are brushing well try running past your start/stop another 1/2" or so and see if it follows.