Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
nomoreusmc
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 pm
  • Location:
    Springfield, MO

first a little backround on me, I gave up my engineering degree and went to welding school because I was sick of building things on a computer and wanted to build things in real life. I got aws certs in stick, mig, flux, and 3g pipe (tig root). I was only taught walking the cup. I have been only doing short circuit mig the past 7 months and that job is running out of work and being forced to do hackish work so I need a new job fast. Most jobs are free hand tig on stainless in these parts.

I got some 1/8 in steel to teach myself to freehand tig and renew my walking the cup skills. I am trying to learn freehand tig first and am banging my head on it pretty good. I have been ranging between65 to 80 amps (everlast 140st on 120v) using a 3/32 2% thor electrode sharpened, 3/32 weldcoat 70s6 filler rod. I just can't get it right. I get it cold and tall with crappy toes. I burn thru. Sometimes it looks like lay wire. I'm really making a mess.

I've been watching Jody's tig basics series and he makes it look so easy. His video's go me thru my pipe cert and I was really hoping I could get this. I was hoping I could pick up my tig rig and play with it a little and make it work. I am running low on argon and being out of work can't really afford to refill. Please over explain/be long winded. I'm feeling pretty stupid and I want to make the most of my resources and getting ready for weld tests and hopefully a job. I am going to log on with my phone and post a pic. Thanks in advance.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
  • Location:
    Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.

What part of the country do you live in? Often a little one-on-one will get you pointed the right direction.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
nomoreusmc
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 pm
  • Location:
    Springfield, MO

MinnesotaDave wrote:What part of the country do you live in? Often a little one-on-one will get you pointed the right direction.
springfield, MO
nomoreusmc
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 pm
  • Location:
    Springfield, MO

Sorry. Took me a few trys
Attachments
1451480000429.jpg
1451480000429.jpg (54.77 KiB) Viewed 1006 times
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
  • Location:
    Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.

Tig on steel requires the metal to be ground/sanded down to bright shiny clean metal.

It does not look like you did that in the pic.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

Aside from you needing to clean the metal, 65-80A is nowhere near enough. Ever hear Jody talk about "1 amp per thousandth of metal thickness"? That's what you should be following to get dialed in, along with using the footpedal. Its never to late to go back to school and finish your engineering degree. Then you won't have to worry about finding work.
Image
nomoreusmc
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 pm
  • Location:
    Springfield, MO

Oscar wrote:Aside from you needing to clean the metal, 65-80A is nowhere near enough. Ever hear Jody talk about "1 amp per thousandth of metal thickness"? That's what you should be following to get dialed in, along with using the footpedal. Its never to late to go back to school and finish your engineering degree. Then you won't have to worry about finding work.
I am lift tig (no footpedal) I am stuck at 120v right now so 80 amps is what I have to work with. that's why I'm using 1/8 in(thinest I have). Also I bet I'm closer to 100 amps(when I pause for more than a second or two I burn thru). These everlast machines run hot in my experiance. I went and got some 1/16th filler rod. I will see if that helps.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

nomoreusmc wrote:
Oscar wrote:Aside from you needing to clean the metal, 65-80A is nowhere near enough. Ever hear Jody talk about "1 amp per thousandth of metal thickness"? That's what you should be following to get dialed in, along with using the footpedal. Its never to late to go back to school and finish your engineering degree. Then you won't have to worry about finding work.
I am lift tig (no footpedal) I am stuck at 120v right now so 80 amps is what I have to work with. that's why I'm using 1/8 in(thinest I have). Also I bet I'm closer to 100 amps(when I pause for more than a second or two I burn thru). These everlast machines run hot in my experiance. I went and got some 1/16th filler rod. I will see if that helps.
I was about to say, you're shooting yourself in the other foot by using that 1/8" filler rod. I wouldn't use that unless I was doing 1/4" or thicker. The 1/16" filler rod will definitely help. By feeding it into the puddle at the appropriate rate, it will help chill the puddle should you see that it is about to drop out. 100A would be much more appropriate, but like you said, it could be running hotter than what it says. Get a 36-40 grit flap wheel or hard grinding disk and go to town on that metal before you grab the torch though.
Image
nomoreusmc
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 pm
  • Location:
    Springfield, MO

Ok here's what I did with grinded metal and 1/16th s2 filler
Attachments
1451507831300.jpg
1451507831300.jpg (56.66 KiB) Viewed 953 times
nomoreusmc
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 pm
  • Location:
    Springfield, MO

I put a current loop over my lead and under arc the multimeter says 106.4 amps
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
  • Location:
    Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.

Just looks like you need to practice - looks pretty normal for someone starting out.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
User avatar
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:41 am
  • Location:
    Laredo, Tx

nomoreusmc wrote:Ok here's what I did with grinded metal and 1/16th s2 filler
You ain't using MIG shielding gas are you? You using 75/25 Ar/CO2??
Image
Poland308
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 10, 2015 8:45 pm
  • Location:
    Iowa

You also might have a long arc length. If so it can make a welder pull higher amps than what your set at. Generally if your arc is long it could mean you have an odd torch angle and that can give you poor gas coverage. How long is the gap between the end of your tungsten and the metal when you have the arc going. Also can you show a pic of your toungsten in the torch before and after a weld?
I have more questions than answers

Josh
nomoreusmc
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:40 pm
  • Location:
    Springfield, MO

Oscar wrote:
nomoreusmc wrote:Ok here's what I did with grinded metal and 1/16th s2 filler
You ain't using MIG shielding gas are you? You using 75/25 Ar/CO2??
Nope pure argon. I am fighting torch angle. I have a crappy situation so I am having a hard time finding a good position to be comfortable
Poland308
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 10, 2015 8:45 pm
  • Location:
    Iowa

Just make sure you keep the stick out at about 1- 1 1/2 times the diameter of your tungsten. And start with a good sharp point. Don't be afraid to ask what some of the terms we use here mean. We forget sometimes not everyone knows the speek.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
Post Reply