Rupes wrote:Just a note on the adjustable ones though, if its overpumping and releasing internally it just circulates the same water back to the inlet of the pump. I think its better to bypass any excess pressure back to the tank if you can.
When I was designing my pump I came across a few warnings against using the over-pressure relief valve as the primary pressure regulator just for that reason. Apparently it will happily recirculate to the point that it's heating the water in the pump, and cooking the pump itself if left that way for long enough.
I figured that using the bypass water flow to circulate through the radiator was as good a use as any and have it plumbed that direction. That way there is no chance of further restriction on the return line from the torch. It might not have as much temperature difference from ambient, but if there is enough heat in the reservoir to matter, it will dump it to the air.
I'm also in the process of building a tig water cooler. I am using a brass Procon Series 1 pump that I obtained from a carbonator pump setup I bought used for $40 USD. Carbonator pumps are what's used to add carbonation to fountain drinks. The carbonator I found had the same size reservoir as pictured below. It also came with a pressure regulator w/ gauge, and a sensor that protect's the pump by shutting off the electric motor if it detects no flow through the pump.
In place of the reservoir pictured, I'm welding up a 6" x 6" x 12" reservoir (432 cu. in.). Every 231 cu. in. equals a gallon if you are wanting to calculate the dimensions needed for the size reservoir you are wanting to use. I'm also adding a radiator with an 115 VAC cooling fan attached to it.
So far the path the coolant will flow will be from:
Reservoir Feed > T-Strainer > Pump Inflow > Pump Outflow > Blue Coolant Hose > TIG Torch > Red Coolant Hose > TIG Welder's DINSE Connector > Red Coolant Hose Extension > Radiator > Reservoir Return
I'll post up pictures of the build once I get it together (waiting on a few more parts and materials for the build I've ordered from McMaster-Carr)
dynasty200sd wrote:and a sensor that protect's the pump by shutting off the electric motor if it detects no flow through the pump.
That feature could perhaps be extended with a second relay to also cut the trigger (pedal or torch) in this case?
That way if the flow is blocked somehow then the welding is also shut off so you don't cook the torch as an additional failsafe if you don't notice that.
I also used the carbonator setup from Ebay, using all the parts I could. Added trans cooler for a truck, copper cored, hoses and fittings. Fans are each switched, pressure gauge, running a CK Flex Loc torch at 52 psi, about a quart a minute. The pump I got had a 150psi rating, so I turned the relief down as much as I dared, then plumbed the discharge with a T, one to the torch, one through a ball valve back to the reservoir, throttle for desired pressure. Only a couple hours on it, using 50/50 RV antifreeze and distilled water mix, so far no issues, works great. I did mod the float sensor switch into a vented cap, had some foaming when I first started it, worked itself clear, and all good.
I'm heading to Melbourne on Friday to pick my welder up and a procon series 2 pump and motor.. I'm sure I'm going to be busy building in the near future!
It could be a very slow project as I am trying to get some seat time running beads and trying to develop a semblance of technique! My current welding skill is extremely basic!
But I will definitely keep you posted once the project has begun in earnest.
Poland308 wrote:There may be something wrong with your temp gauges. There reading C.
Looks Awsome
That'll never work! It would be almost as bad as if he had measured up the project in millimetres, in which case of course the whole thing would just catch fire!
We have some very creative people posting here and I love it because it inspires me...as a newbie it makes me want to dig deep, improve my skills and produce work to such high standards. Something to aim for!
And out of several very impressive TIG cooler builds, yours is certainly right up there with the neatest and sweetest. Well done.
I applaud you guys that build your own TIG coolers. It's a lot of work, even though that's what welding is about, lol. Things like that I would just rather buy. I just picked up a demo/slightly used HTP Arctic Chill dual-voltage cooler for $390.
Here is the pump that I'm setting up for my cooler, along with the bypass valve to dump excess pressure/flow back to the tank.
It's a Procon that I got from a beverage equipment rebuilding company for about $60, strapped to a motor from eBay that ran $35.
I bought a retired soda syrup tank to use for my reservoir.
~3 gallons and has nice fitting on the top with a dip tube to the bottom of the tank, and I was easily able to add a return fitting in the lid to dump excess flow and torch return flow with no restriction back into the tank.
Most of the fittings were junk bin parts from disassembled equipment.
Now I just have to finish plumbing it and get it wired for power, instead of just sitting there near my welder taking up floor space!
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That style of procon pump has a pressure adjustment under the nut by the intake you can back out the screw for less pressure. There is a minamum pressure for some water cooled torches but you might save your self some energy by backing it down a bit. My used one came set at 115 psi.
Poland308 wrote:That style of procon pump has a pressure adjustment under the nut by the intake you can back out the screw for less pressure. There is a minamum pressure for some water cooled torches but you might save your self some energy by backing it down a bit. My used one came set at 115 psi.
I had this one spec'd at 60 psi, since the pump that I initially had purchased turned out to be a good bit overkill (1/2" NPT fittings, 120gph at 150 psi...), I traded it in on a rebuilt from a repair and service center. I explained what I was doing when I ordered it, and they even offered the lower pressure set point for the application.
The main reason I have the bypass valve there is to keep from internally bypassing continuously and potentially boiling the water in the pump, when pushing against the restriction of the very small hoses in the CK20 torch that I have. It's also a convenient place to hook up the radiator, so any coolant going back and forth to the tank will have a chance to dump any excess heat on the way.
