AndersK,
You might find some useful info here:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig ... ideos.html:
In particular, there's a video in that section titled "Tig welding stainless steel with a stubby gas lens kit" that will look very much like what you're trying to do with the lap joint. It will give you a better idea of the speed we're making reference to...
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
AndersK wrote:You guys has to be the most polite bunch on the internet ...
Thanks for noticing!
We like it that way.
We've faced questions from "How does potassium chloride contribute to corrosions-stress cracking?" to "How do I plug this in?"
We take everyone seriously.
Steve S
I think I know which one you mean. Had another look at it this weekend and I noticed I moved as fast or even faster. I did some more practice yesterday and slowed down a lot to get better consistency, to my surprise the color was still quite good. I used the torch switch on and off frequently to control the heat with help of the downslope ( increased it to 3s).Mr. Moose wrote:AndersK,
You might find some useful info here:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig ... ideos.html:
In particular, there's a video in that section titled "Tig welding stainless steel with a stubby gas lens kit" that will look very much like what you're trying to do with the lap joint. It will give you a better idea of the speed we're making reference to...
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
Better?Superiorwelding wrote: I would suggest working on your actual welding technique rather than focusing on the coloring. I still see inconsistent beadwidth and spacing,
- DSC_0446[1].jpg (40.74 KiB) Viewed 932 times
This weld run all around for 450 mm. I was welding 1-2" each pass and jumped around (wording?) to avoid distorsion
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
- Superiorwelding
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:13 pm
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Location:Eddy, TX
AndersK,
What an improvement!!!! That my friend is very acceptable! Good job on making those transitions. The fillet is hard let alone a rounded fillet. Keep that up!
-Jonathan
What an improvement!!!! That my friend is very acceptable! Good job on making those transitions. The fillet is hard let alone a rounded fillet. Keep that up!
-Jonathan
Instagram- @superiorwelding/@learntotig
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
I've been welding a good bit of kitchen stainless the past few months and had my share of issues trying to perfect my welds so they disappear into the kitchen equipment, sinks, hoods, tables....... Most of the stuff is 18 gauge and I've tried everything. What's working best for me right now in an .040 2% lanthanated tungsten in a 9 torch with a #4 cup about 40-45 amps although I'm only using a lot of peddle to wet up, then I'm on it just enough to keep the puddle moving, and using about 17 cf of straight argon, .035 309L wire.
Like I said, that seems to be working best for me "right now". I tried the gas lens. I tried the tri mix. I tried bigger cup which most of the time I like using a #6.
Sometimes you might have to find what works for you.
Thanks, Jack
Like I said, that seems to be working best for me "right now". I tried the gas lens. I tried the tri mix. I tried bigger cup which most of the time I like using a #6.
Sometimes you might have to find what works for you.
Thanks, Jack
Thanks
Two major changes. I put led light on my helmet so I can see what I'm doing (changed helmet a while ago but didnt swap the lights...)
and I bought a pedal, should have done that a long time ago...
Two major changes. I put led light on my helmet so I can see what I'm doing (changed helmet a while ago but didnt swap the lights...)
and I bought a pedal, should have done that a long time ago...
- DSC_0426[1].jpg (224.15 KiB) Viewed 998 times
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
- Superiorwelding
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:13 pm
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Location:Eddy, TX
Nice! The pedal will help a lot. Keep the pics coming.
Now I am interested in your shop set up. Looks sweet. I have wanted to put a set of tools out like you have but don't want them to get all dusty
-Jonathan
Now I am interested in your shop set up. Looks sweet. I have wanted to put a set of tools out like you have but don't want them to get all dusty
-Jonathan
Instagram- @superiorwelding/@learntotig
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
It is also pretty important to me, that I have something to rest my fore arm on. Keeps your hands steady. I use the tig finger, sometimes a pair of old gloves, sometimes a wooden 2x4, back of my shop chair. Whatever it take to steady my hands enough to keep the point of that tungsten exactly where I want it to be. Makes a big difference when you have total control and not trying to free hand it.
- Braehill
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:16 am
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Location:Near Pittsburgh,Pennsylvania. Steel Buckle of the Rust Belt
Anders,
You need to post your picture in the "Rogues Gallery" post.
The pedal will make a huge difference on heat input control. It's good to have somewhere to lean on but try to get used to leaning with a very light touch so you can advance easily without rolling the torch and losing good torch angle. I find that when I'm in an position where I had to lean on something to brace myself that I roll my torch more and my gas coverage suffers. I hope that makes sense.
Len
You need to post your picture in the "Rogues Gallery" post.
The pedal will make a huge difference on heat input control. It's good to have somewhere to lean on but try to get used to leaning with a very light touch so you can advance easily without rolling the torch and losing good torch angle. I find that when I'm in an position where I had to lean on something to brace myself that I roll my torch more and my gas coverage suffers. I hope that makes sense.
Len
Now go melt something.
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
Instagram @lenny_gforce
Len
You know you have to use them to keep dust off?Superiorwelding wrote: I have wanted to put a set of tools out like you have but don't want them to get all dusty
-Jonathan
I agree about what you all say about support and a soft grip. I use the tig finger where it helps. I also use an IKEA fire blanket that I cut pieces from. Fold a couple times and it can be used to slide on without burning through.
Having the pedal is also positive on torch grip when I'm not forced to hold it a certain way to reach the trigger.
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
Added a cap so there are outside corners to weld
Some angled tubes. A 9 torch felt big between the two...
- DSC_0464[1].jpg (31.36 KiB) Viewed 921 times
- DSC_0459[1].jpg (39.71 KiB) Viewed 921 times
- DSC_0466[1].jpg (29.39 KiB) Viewed 921 times
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
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