[CCWorks]

First, awesome site, just ran across it and I am amazed at the amount of info. I have MIG welded for years and am fairly proficient on all the different ways of doing it so I thought to myself “I need to learn to TIG”. So, I got a mini TIG and have been playing around with obvious mixed results. Yes I have made every n00b mistake you can and probably a few that no one would say they did. My big question right now is, my TIG does not have a foot pedal. The only way I know to get an arc is to strike the tungsten against the metal which from what I read immediately contaminates the tip. How do you get an arc with a TIG that has no foot pedal?

Thanks in advance

[turbo388]

Your issue isn't the lack of a foot pedal, it's the lack of high frequency arc starting. Little machines like that will only do scratch start.

[CCWorks]

Thanks for the reply, so I dont need to worry about contamination?

[CCWorks]

If I rigged up a foot pedal to be able to adjust the amperage while I’m welding, would this be beneficial or retarded?

[jpence38]

The answer to the question of contamination on the scratch start. WHEN YOU LEARN HOW TO DO IT CORRECTLY, NO , YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT CONTAMINATION. QUESTION 2. IT IS ALWAYS A BENEFIT TO BE ABLE TO ADJUST CURRENT WHILE YOU ARE WELDING.

[kermdawg]

If I rigged up a foot pedal to be able to adjust the amperage while I’m welding, would this be beneficial or retarded?

???How in the world would that be retarded.

[Otto Nobedder]

I first learned to TIG on an industrial construction site. I had no remote amp control, and "scratch start" was the only way. If you contaminate your tungsten with the base metal your welding, so what? To avoid contaminating the base metal with the tungsten, scratch at the margin of your weld bevel. If you're too hot, move faster, and vice-versa.

It actually took me a little time to adjust to having hi-freq and remote amp control.

Steve

[sschefer]

There are any number of situations where you'll find that scratch starting is the only way to get an arc going. The trick is to scratch it like a blue tip wooden match. Flick your wrist with a slight lift at the end and turn the tip down almost vertical to the metal. When you leave the weld, do it with a flick of your wrist also but this time be moving up and away from the metal. This will stop the arc almost immediately and help with keeping the soot to a minimum. The lift off is not always easy. If you weld into a corner, you sometimes have to backup to get out of it gracefully.

[CCWorks]

Thanks for all the info, it’s been a big help. I know the adjusting question was stupid, but since I’m new to TIG, I thought I’d throw it out there. Going next week to get some more tungsten and filler cause what I have is tiny and is not good for what I do. I build intake manifolds for motorcycles and have to weld a flange which is ¼ flat plate to 16 gauge tube. With a MIG, you pull from thick to thin to keep from burning through; I assume it is the same for TIG, yes?
One last question, (for now) cup size, I’ve seen cups of different sizes used on what appears to be the same size electrode. There are tight spots when welding these manifolds that with a MIG you just crank up the gas and let the wire feed out more, do you do the same with TIG?

Thanks again for all the info, you guys are INVALUABLE!!!

[kermdawg]

Ya you basically want to be directing your tungsten toward the base metal prolly 3/4 of the time, and then wash up briefly to melt the 16 guage tube and dot your filler in there. Not really somethin most would start out with, but if you've done it with mig (or stick) you should prolly get what your lookin for after a few practice runs on scrap.

For the cup size- the size of the electrode is only one of the factors dictating cup size (actually its prolly the last). Type of material (I assume your doin stainless for the exhuast?) is the biggest factor, because that will dictate gas flow. For stainless you really need a gas lense for the uniform gas coverage-the added, second benefit of a gas lense is it allows you to stick out your tungsten WELL beyond what you would normally be able to with a standard cup.

BUT, in a pinch, yes, you can crank up the gas flow and stick the tungsten out more than you could with a regular cup, although again I'd recommened using a gas lense, especially if yuo have to use a small cup to fit in a tight spot.

You also might want to consider a non-standard torch with a smaller backing cap. This would allow you to use tungsten around 3" (some, like the pencil-type torchs, use even smaller lengths tungsten) and might help you get in tight spaces better.

edit-welding differant guage material with tig, having a foot pedal would be exponentially helpful

[Otto Nobedder]

The recommendation for the gas lens is solid. There are tight-quarter situations where a simple collet-body and cup are called for. You can use whatever size cup will get you into the weld. Setting gas flow can be tricky, though, and I have an "old-school" tip.

If you're a smoker, you can use a cigarette; If not, an incense stick will do. All you need is a source of visible smoke. Put your stinger in the tightest spot of your weld, and turn the gas on. Hold your smoke source right at the edge of the cup, and turn the gas flow up until the smoke becomes turbulent around your tungsten, then back it off until the smoke flows smoothly with the gas. That is the maximum flow this cup will tolerate in this position. Take notes, and pretty soon you'll develop a feel for how much gas to use for a given situation.

You are correct about biasing the heat to the thicker material. I once welded several 300# flanges to 4" sch 5 stainless without the benefit of remote amp control. I'd spend two seconds on the flange, build material into the puddle, and almost "flick" the molten metal onto the pipe.

Steve