The new welder arrived, an Everlast PowerTig i200 DV, last Tuesday. Everything seems in good order and all the functions I've tried so far work. I forgot to order tungsten with the welder and the only collets that came with it were for 3/32" along with #4 cups. I bought a set of gas lenses and cups from USAWeld (the folks who sell the HTP brand of welders) screwed up and didn't order the collets so I placed a second order for .04, 1/16, and 3/32 collets and a couple of pounds of 1/16" 80S-D2 wire so I could qualify for free shipping. While I was waiting for everything to arrive I started cleaning out the shop during the day and reading the setup manual for the welder at night. Don't even bother with the printed version that came in the box. My wife liked #4. "Description of the Erection" though.
Today was the big day. I pulled a little sheet of .050 4130 out, cleaned the table and the metal and used the ground clamp to hold the metal in place. I had my helmet set to 9 on darkness. Works great for MIG but with the TIG torch I couldn't see anything but a very bright light. Waited for the big blue spot to go away. Reset to 10. Waited for the big blue spot to go away, again, and reset to 11. I could finally make out some detail. Okay, time to try melting metal.
First I tried just making a puddle and holding a line. Sort of successful. It wasn't awful, well, not that awful anyway.
Then I tried adding some filler. Now we are talking awful AND the tungsten was crapped up in about 30 seconds. Regrind.
Second and third tries with filler were equally terrible but the tungsten stayed clean at least. Well, cleaner. Regrind.
The last attempt I actually made a bead. It wandered about a bit, but it's a bead nonetheless. Even so it's too ugly to post a picture. Maybe next time.
Time to walk the dogs and contemplate the Tao of the Tungsten.
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- lsamech104
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New Member
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Posts:
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Joined:Sat Nov 09, 2013 12:33 pm
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Location:Udall, KS, United States
using Argon?
correct flow? liters or cfh
Everlast has american english manuals on line
correct flow? liters or cfh
Everlast has american english manuals on line
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
GreinTime
- GreinTime
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Fri Nov 01, 2013 11:20 am
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Location:Pittsburgh, PA
I think he's saying he's having issues adding filler rod, not that he's having issues with the weld puddle You can try pulling the tungsten back some to avoid having the filler rod 'suck' up to the tungsten, if that is the issue you are having. Also, try going one setting darker so that you can discern what is the tip of the tungsten and what is the arc cone itself. Let us know how it goes, and any other issues you have!
#oneleggedproblems
-=Sam=-
-=Sam=-
Yeah, it's a muscle-memory thing that takes many strings of beads. I.e., seat time. I'm still a long way from good-looking welds.
A couple thoughts... First, while learning, you're going to dip the tungsten a lot. I found that the tungsten could be pretty fouled and still maintain a stable arc for practice purposes, so don't be too concerned about re-grinding each time it happens during practice. Second, the arc will sustain a pretty large gap from the tungsten, so don't be afraid to pull up as you add rod.
Grab a piece of 1/8" steel about 6x8" and run string after string of beads. That practice plate will get darned hot, which makes it both uncomfortable and changes the weld behavior. Keep a bucket of water nearby and quench it from time to time. (Never for real welds, as it makes them brittle, but I've heard no reason this is a bad idea for practice drills.)
Cheers,
Richard
A couple thoughts... First, while learning, you're going to dip the tungsten a lot. I found that the tungsten could be pretty fouled and still maintain a stable arc for practice purposes, so don't be too concerned about re-grinding each time it happens during practice. Second, the arc will sustain a pretty large gap from the tungsten, so don't be afraid to pull up as you add rod.
Grab a piece of 1/8" steel about 6x8" and run string after string of beads. That practice plate will get darned hot, which makes it both uncomfortable and changes the weld behavior. Keep a bucket of water nearby and quench it from time to time. (Never for real welds, as it makes them brittle, but I've heard no reason this is a bad idea for practice drills.)
Cheers,
Richard
Grinding discs... still my #1 consumable!
Vicyyarm
- Vicyyarm
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New Member
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Joined:Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:11 pm
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Location:Philadelphia Suburbs
Don't get discouraged. I just got a powertig 185 a couple weeks ago and am a new welder. Watching Jody weld and making it look so easy was an illusion, tig welding especially in the beginning is pretty difficult. What I ended up doing is getting a quick tungsten prep station. I got a harbor freight bench grinder just for grinding tungsten and a drill that I put the tungsten in and then spin and grind to a point. The point is, every time I would dip I can quickly put the tungsten in the drill, sharpen it and get back to welding with in a minute if that. Another thing I picked up is when your moving the torch try to not move your wrist, move at your elbow as it's propped against the table, or slide your hole arm against the table or whatever you're sliding against. I noticed myself in the beginning moving the torch with my wrist, then when I didn't have anymore reach and had to move my whole arm that's when I would dip almost every time. That really made a difference for me. Then once you pick it up you can try different things. That helped me a lot at least. Good Luck.
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