Welding stainless exhaust?

CBPayne · Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:14 am

I have Miller dynasty 180 with a gas lens. Need some advice on welding 304 stainless exhaust 16g. I can't remember what rods I have at the moment. What's a cheap way to purge? I nee to weld the first two inches of the original exhaust on my header. I'm not sure what kind of metal it is but I'm certain it's not stainless. Thanks

AFSATCOM · Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:27 am

If not sure what metal, go with 309 filler. You can do a purge with tape. Lemme find the vid Jody did on that.

AFSATCOM · Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:30 am

http://welding-tv.com/2014/01/21/6g-wel ... weld-test/

Here ya go.

Oscar · Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:34 am

You can also use SolarFluxB instead of purging, assuming there is no turbocharger down the line. You will get better welds with back purging, but SolarFluxB would also work as a 2nd best alternative.

AFSATCOM · Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:40 am

Oscar wrote:You can also use SolarFluxB instead of purging, assuming there is no turbocharger down the line. You will get better welds with back purging, but SolarFluxB would also work as a 2nd best alternative.

I've heard of that stuff a few times. Seemed a bit expensive to me. How good does it work?

CB have you taken a magnet to the part you're not sure about?

CBPayne · Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:02 am

No magnet yet. It's the front header of a virago witch is a double wall pipe the inside is 1.5" and the outer is 2". The part I need is a 2" flange that fits inside the jug exhaust port and tappers down to the 1.5" inner pipe. It's covered in rust. I guess stainless could rust in 28 years, I don't know. I'll go check. Thank you guys.

CBPayne · Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:06 am

The magnet sticks to it.

AFSATCOM · Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:50 am

CBPayne wrote:The magnet sticks to it.

Is it cast?

CBPayne · Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:56 pm

I'm not for sure.

AFSATCOM · Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:59 pm

http://youtu.be/cFf_x97vcQ0

Spark test it

brokeitagain · Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:05 pm

if it has carbon deposits from exhaust flowing through it you should really clean that out first as well, welding on used exhaust has always been a troublesome experience for me, speaking from mig welding exhaust experience btw.

I have found removing the carbon from inside of the used pipe make it less prone to burn through, I assume the carbon ignites and causes the weld to burn much hotter than needed, just my .02 I may be completely wrong and if someone can correct me that would be welcome

Oscar · Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:00 pm

AFSATCOM wrote:
Oscar wrote:You can also use SolarFluxB instead of purging, assuming there is no turbocharger down the line. You will get better welds with back purging, but SolarFluxB would also work as a 2nd best alternative.
I've heard of that stuff a few times. Seemed a bit expensive to me. How good does it work?

CB have you taken a magnet to the part you're not sure about?

Well $38 will buy you a 1lb can from http://www.weldingsupply.com. With it, you could probably do a few hundred feet worth of weld. Is that expensive? you tell me----how much argon would you need to purchase to do a hundred feet worth of weld? How much time is spent on setting it all up and accounting for purge time? With SolarFluxB, you just mix with alcohol or methanol, apply to backside of weld, let evaporate in 5-15sec, and weld away. No extra purging stuff necessary IF you choose this alternative. Purging is the way to go, make no mistake about it. But for small stuff that needs to be done quick, SolarFluxB is a good 2nd alternative.

For exhaust I've used it, with good results---so long as there is no turbocharger downstream of the welded area. It does exactly what it says when used properly. Your backside of the weld will not sugar if used properly.

AFSATCOM · Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:04 pm

Oscar wrote:
AFSATCOM wrote:
Oscar wrote:You can also use SolarFluxB instead of purging, assuming there is no turbocharger down the line. You will get better welds with back purging, but SolarFluxB would also work as a 2nd best alternative.
I've heard of that stuff a few times. Seemed a bit expensive to me. How good does it work?

CB have you taken a magnet to the part you're not sure about?
Well $38 will buy you a 1lb can from http://www.weldingsupply.com.

Never again will I order from that site. Anyone else sell it for the same price?

Oscar · Sat Apr 12, 2014 3:19 pm

AFSATCOM wrote:Never again will I order from that site. Anyone else sell it for the same price?

not that I found. I never had any issues with them.

CBPayne · Mon May 05, 2014 11:50 pm

Can't I get some tips on welding the ss exhaust? Like what kind, size of tungsten, cup size, and what type of filler rod for ss and ss to mild steel? Thanks

noddybrian · Tue May 06, 2014 3:47 am

Reading this one a bit late - but the obvious quick answers to you post are.

Tungsten - almost any will work on DC - I'd use thoriated - Jodie's go to 2% lanthanated would also be good
Size - you need to pin point the heat so a sharp fairly long point on no bigger than 1/16"
Cup size - difficult - I tend to keep a No.7 gas lens on for almost everything & the better coverage helps on small tube especially if torch angle is compromised by joint shape - but you may not have room for this & have to go down to as small as No.4 just to get into the joint - hard to say without seeing your part.
Filler - if we assume most exhaust is 304 then 308 filler should be fine - if there is any doubt or there are different alloys in the system or you have to add steel components then 309 would be the logical choice.
Try to get perfect fit up - make slip joints where possible & weld as fast as possible - do not hang around with minimal amps going slowly - it seems like it gives you control - but it just heat soaks the part & makes it harder - use sufficient amps - weld fast even if it's only a short run - allow it to cool & go again.
Hope that helps some.

Superiorwelding · Tue May 06, 2014 5:12 pm

CBPayne wrote:Can't I get some tips on welding the ss exhaust? Like what kind, size of tungsten, cup size, and what type of filler rod for ss and ss to mild steel? Thanks

To answer some of the questions and to try to add to what noddybrian said, I would try to fuse what you can. If you are using slip joints, simply fuse the ends. No need for filler, as long as you are comfortable with this technique. I would keep the heat to a minimum. For tungsten, anything except pure (green band) will work fine for what you are doing and 1/16" tungsten with a 6 or 7 cup will be more than adequate. Sharpen to a needle point and go.
For advice, get the best fit up you can and compensate for the exhaust to move as you weld. If you find it pulling around to much, jump around or make your tacks a little bigger. There is no way around SS pulling, you will just have to compensate.
To answer the magnetic question, more than likely the exhaust is 304 and during the bending/forming process it will become magnetic.
And last, if it is steel to SS, use the 309 that has already been mentioned.
-Jonathan

CBPayne · Fri May 09, 2014 7:31 pm

Where is a good place to buy supplies online? I may have misunderstood you, but the guy at airgas said that 1/16 tungsten would fit in a #7 cups medium gas lens. It have to be a #6 cup. Anyways they don't ever have much to choose from in the store, so where can I get some of this stuff online? Thanks for the help.

dynasty200sd · Sat May 10, 2014 2:24 am

CBPayne wrote:Where is a good place to buy supplies online? I may have misunderstood you, but the guy at airgas said that 1/16 tungsten would fit in a #7 cups medium gas lens. It have to be a #6 cup. Anyways they don't ever have much to choose from in the store, so where can I get some of this stuff online? Thanks for the help.

For tungstens, arc-zone has decent prices on ones by Diamond Ground Products. Also, Mississippi Welders Supply is another place to get welding supplies among a slew of other things. Lastly, the tech manual by CK Worldwide, Technical Specifications for Tig Welding has a lot of good information on recommended cup sizes for the various tungsten diameters, suggested argon flow rates, etc..

http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?main_ ... 3_699_2179
http://store.mwsco.com/storefront/home?idAffiliate=
http://www.ckworldwide.com/technical_specs.pdf

Oscar · Mon May 12, 2014 7:33 am

CBPayne wrote:Where is a good place to buy supplies online? I may have misunderstood you, but the guy at airgas said that 1/16 tungsten would fit in a #7 cups medium gas lens. It have to be a #6 cup. Anyways they don't ever have much to choose from in the store, so where can I get some of this stuff online? Thanks for the help.

www.ebay.com
www.weldingcity.com
www.usaweld.com

technically, a 1/16" tungsten will fit in any gas lens that accepts a 1/16" tungsten---cup size is whole 'nother matter though.

CBPayne · Fri May 30, 2014 8:44 pm

I got the rear stock flange attached to a 180 pipe last night. I think my purge didn't go too well, but it doesn't look too nasty on the inside like the one I did without the gas. It just looks like the welds went through to other side, not black and sooty. I should have known better but I use duck tape. I haven't figure away to make a diffuser or if I even need one. But I think I'm going to get the front flange and adapter welded on and build the exhaust on the bike then remove it to weld. So are there any good videos on how to tack weld ss exhaust pipe. I watched Jody's video on tack welding just regular steel and aluminum, is it the same idea for ss pipe? No gap, and looks like he's touching the tungsten to the metal. http://youtu.be/ny-glWjl9pk

Oscar · Sat May 31, 2014 11:56 am

http://youtu.be/ridE6PiN5H0