I was hoping to pick your brains for ideas...
Most of the projects that I TIG weld on need the mill scale from hot rolled steel removed, usually not just in the weld area do to post-weld finishing processes. I've tried quite a few methods and have searched through the past posts here for ideas.
Grinding leaves marks. Flap wheels work really well - for a while, seem time consuming and expensive in the long run. Wire wheels seem to be hit and miss, also likely to grab and bend thinner steel edges if not used really carefully.
I guess, I have myself 95% convinced that an abrasive blasting cabinet is going to be the best solution. The cheapskate side of me is wondering if it's necessary to go there. Round numbers, it looks like a good, tight, durable cabinet with a external commercial filter (not one of the ones that look like a beefed up shop-vac), and good lighting would run around $2500, delivered with all needed accessories. For example:
http://www.tptools.com/960-DLX-Deluxe-A ... l?b=d*8015
and filter upgrade:
http://www.tptools.com/180-DC-INSIDER-I ... l?b=d*8035
Just wondering what your thoughts were, thank you much!
-- Pete
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- Superiorwelding
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Pete,
I have sandblasted products for several years when the need arises. For a while I had my own equipment and have since sold everything except for a soda blaster. Any blasting I need done now I farm out. There is nothing necessarily wrong with sand blasting your products, but I do have a few concerns and warnings.
First, depending on what material you use for blasting, the sand will impregnate the base material. You will have nasty black streaks when you weld on material that has been blasted. Not the end of the world, but you DO NOT want to breath any of this in.
Second do not use Silicon sand! There are dangers in using this material, mainly Silicosis. In my opinion, even with fancy filters and what not, you will still have limited exposure to the silicon.
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/92-102/
You may already know this stuff, but thought I would put it up anyway. I am sure others will have ideas on this as well.
-Jonathan
I have sandblasted products for several years when the need arises. For a while I had my own equipment and have since sold everything except for a soda blaster. Any blasting I need done now I farm out. There is nothing necessarily wrong with sand blasting your products, but I do have a few concerns and warnings.
First, depending on what material you use for blasting, the sand will impregnate the base material. You will have nasty black streaks when you weld on material that has been blasted. Not the end of the world, but you DO NOT want to breath any of this in.
Second do not use Silicon sand! There are dangers in using this material, mainly Silicosis. In my opinion, even with fancy filters and what not, you will still have limited exposure to the silicon.
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/92-102/
You may already know this stuff, but thought I would put it up anyway. I am sure others will have ideas on this as well.
-Jonathan
Instagram- @superiorwelding/@learntotig
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
brokeitagain
- brokeitagain
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wouldn't baking soda blasting or ground walnut shell blasting work? and I think I have seen ground soybean husks used but am unsure if this is a media blasting media
I appreciate those thoughts, the dust danger is a real problem. Between the blasting media and whatever nasty coatings that are being removed, it's not something that should be inhaled!
My hope is to reduce if not eliminate these concerns by using the good filters, and then plumbing the discharge air out of the shop through a duct in the wall. In theory, the cabinet should be (by virtue of the strong exhaust fan) at a lower pressure then the air outside of the cabinet and any leaks should pull air in from the outside, and not expel dust into the shop. Would this be a good strategy?
I'm also open to other ideas, just not sure what to do that would be time effective.
For example, a recent project required 60 feet of 3/4" Sch 40 steel pipe. The pipe had to have all finish removed down to shiny metal, areas bent in the tubing bender, and about 20 saddle (coped) joints cut and welded. I did the prep with 60 grit 4-1/2" grinder flap discs, it took forever, made a ton of paint dust mess (probably inhaled a fair bit of it), and honestly wasn't time efficient at all (it did however look really nice upon completion!).
Just searching for a better way to handle this prep work.
All thoughts appreciated!
-- Pete
My hope is to reduce if not eliminate these concerns by using the good filters, and then plumbing the discharge air out of the shop through a duct in the wall. In theory, the cabinet should be (by virtue of the strong exhaust fan) at a lower pressure then the air outside of the cabinet and any leaks should pull air in from the outside, and not expel dust into the shop. Would this be a good strategy?
I'm also open to other ideas, just not sure what to do that would be time effective.
For example, a recent project required 60 feet of 3/4" Sch 40 steel pipe. The pipe had to have all finish removed down to shiny metal, areas bent in the tubing bender, and about 20 saddle (coped) joints cut and welded. I did the prep with 60 grit 4-1/2" grinder flap discs, it took forever, made a ton of paint dust mess (probably inhaled a fair bit of it), and honestly wasn't time efficient at all (it did however look really nice upon completion!).
Just searching for a better way to handle this prep work.
All thoughts appreciated!
-- Pete
GreinTime
- GreinTime
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Have you ever used Roloc Bristle Discs? Don't know if that's the technical term, but the green ones work great for steel, and the yellow for aluminum! I really don't have any suggestions on how to clean 60 feet of pipe efficiently other than send it to a sand blaster, as Johnathan suggested. Sometimes its cheaper in the long run to just sublet jobs like that out, especially if you aren't billing the customer for the extra hours involved with the prep work. If you get in good with a sandblasting company, by either volume, or promise to promote their company whenever possible, you can make it a win win for both of you.
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-=Sam=-
-=Sam=-
What about something like this? http://www.metabo.us/Product-Catalogue- ... ef1.0.html
I weld stainless, stainless and more stainless...Food Industry, sanitary process piping, vessels, whatever is needed, I like to make stuff.
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
ASME IX, AWS 17.1, D1.1
Instagram #RNHFAB
- Superiorwelding
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These are very nice, but very expensive. They are more meant for polishing SS than anything else. I do not think this would be a economical choice for what he is after.Rick_H wrote:What about something like this? http://www.metabo.us/Product-Catalogue- ... ef1.0.html
One thing that was not specified is you said you did 60' of pipe, how long was each piece? Will the pieces fit into said blast cabinet? I am thinking, unless this is going to be a on going job, send them out to a blaster. Check with body shops/auto restoration and industrial paint shops. They should be able to help you out or point you in the correct direction.
-Jonathan
Instagram- @superiorwelding/@learntotig
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Good thoughts, I ordered a box of the green bristle discs to try them out.
Most of the stuff that I do would fit into a 4ft cabinet, the longer pieces that wouldn't could be accommodated using a few ideas that I'm still putting the final touches on.
-- Pete
Most of the stuff that I do would fit into a 4ft cabinet, the longer pieces that wouldn't could be accommodated using a few ideas that I'm still putting the final touches on.
-- Pete
- Superiorwelding
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Joined:Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:13 pm
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Pete,sgtnoah wrote:Good thoughts, I ordered a box of the green bristle discs to try them out.
Most of the stuff that I do would fit into a 4ft cabinet, the longer pieces that wouldn't could be accommodated using a few ideas that I'm still putting the final touches on.
-- Pete
Let me know how the discs work for you. If you do go for the blast cabinet, let us know how you like it.
-Jonathan
Instagram- @superiorwelding/@learntotig
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
Twitter- @_JonathanLewis
https://www.learntotig.com
https://www.superiorweldandfab.com
https://www.youtube.com/+SuperiorWeldin ... ATHANLEWIS
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