Ok, i have a couple three weeks before I need to weld stainless, but my first few attempts were epic fails (probably my worst ever first attempts)
My upcoming stainless project is basically a box with no top. The welds I make will mostly not not be visible, and the box is 37"x28"x30" so I have a lot of practice coming up.
What I need/am asking for is y'alls help with "assignments" of a step by step projects that will ultimately end with me being able to do at least a good enough to get by job on this project. I have plenty of 20ga stainless sheet to work with. I don't have any other scrap, and really would like to avoid buying more.. The stainless is 304. I also have ER308L filler.
Now with all that said, here is what I learned from my epic fail, and my following research:
1) I was using filler rod that was too large in diameter.
2) I did not have any form of backing gas
3) I had no clue what settings to use.
I do have a couple of questions:
1) I have a spool of ER308L filler rod for mig. Can I use this with Tig, or should I just buy thinner tig filler rods. One of the things I was reading is that too thick of a filler rod will cool the weld pool rather than get pulled int the pool. If I use the wire, I will be working with a much thinner rod and it wont cool as much.
2) What amperage should I be using? I tried everything from 10amp to as much as 100amp and no matter what I burned through.
3) All I have is pure Argon. I know that trimix would be better, but this is a home hobby shop. Its bad enough I have CO2. oxy/ace and Argon, I would like to avoid more high pressure cylinders if possible.
- Otto Nobedder
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Trimix is a no. That's a MIG gas. It will give you GREAT headaches on thin SS.
Pure argon is what you want.
Backpurge is your friend, but probably not required on this.
Yes, the MIG wire makes excellent filler for thin/small joints.
On 20 ga (assuming you have a foot-pedal), set your max at 50A, and expect to use about half the pedal or a bit less once your puddle is established. Be prepared to move quickly with both hands. You will not need heat in one place for very long, even at 20-25A, and you will be feeding wire fairly quick with MIG wire for filler.
Cut the MIG wire into 18" lengths, and try to straighten it as best you can to feed evenly.
When you come to the top of an open corner, back down to near minimum on the pedal, and feed wire to control the heat, or you'll melt out the top of the corner.
Not all of this may make sense at first. Ask, if it doesn't. Then give it a go, and ask again, if needed.
Steve S
Pure argon is what you want.
Backpurge is your friend, but probably not required on this.
Yes, the MIG wire makes excellent filler for thin/small joints.
On 20 ga (assuming you have a foot-pedal), set your max at 50A, and expect to use about half the pedal or a bit less once your puddle is established. Be prepared to move quickly with both hands. You will not need heat in one place for very long, even at 20-25A, and you will be feeding wire fairly quick with MIG wire for filler.
Cut the MIG wire into 18" lengths, and try to straighten it as best you can to feed evenly.
When you come to the top of an open corner, back down to near minimum on the pedal, and feed wire to control the heat, or you'll melt out the top of the corner.
Not all of this may make sense at first. Ask, if it doesn't. Then give it a go, and ask again, if needed.
Steve S
Tamjeff;
My first choice is to fuse metal, I actually tried to fuse the first time around, and it didn't go so well.
Now for what this is used for, I am building an Ataud. It's basically an oven. The inside is a stainless box with the top open, a steel pan fits in the top, and Mesquite, charcoal, or anything else is burned in the pad. The heat radiats through and cooks whatever is inside.
I could probably build it without welding the stainless, but I want to weld the box together more for practice than anything.
My first choice is to fuse metal, I actually tried to fuse the first time around, and it didn't go so well.
Now for what this is used for, I am building an Ataud. It's basically an oven. The inside is a stainless box with the top open, a steel pan fits in the top, and Mesquite, charcoal, or anything else is burned in the pad. The heat radiats through and cooks whatever is inside.
I could probably build it without welding the stainless, but I want to weld the box together more for practice than anything.
Fusing is a good way to start on thin gauge and I would suggest setting up some lap joints for practice to get the eye for consuming the edge as filler. A lot of restaurant stainless is welded that way. It takes a certain fit of the corners to get it just right, or right enough to where you only have to use filler here and there. Otto would probably know how to set up outside corners for it and certainly there are others here who could know. If I remember correctly, the corners were not all the way open but like half lapped or slightly more than half.
It's usually a lot easier than starting out with filler. In school they started us on stainless without filler.
It's usually a lot easier than starting out with filler. In school they started us on stainless without filler.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
- Otto Nobedder
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To do that as a fusion (come to think of it, this is probably the best way to do it even with a gap to fill), I'd turn it upside-down , start at the top where the joint's closed, and progress downhill, filler at the ready. This does work best when one edge laps the other; If they're corner-to-corner with that 20-ga notch missing, you'll almost certainly need some filler.
Steve S
Steve S
I'm going to go over my process step by step and make sure I understand everything. Tonight will be my next chance to work on this, and I really would like to get moving forward it at all possible.Otto Nobedder wrote:To do that as a fusion (come to think of it, this is probably the best way to do it even with a gap to fill), I'd turn it upside-down , start at the top where the joint's closed, and progress downhill, filler at the ready. This does work best when one edge laps the other; If they're corner-to-corner with that 20-ga notch missing, you'll almost certainly need some filler.
Steve S
1) I am using a plasma cutter w/ a guide to cut the stainless. My hand sheers won't cut it, and I don't have an air nibbler for this. My plasma cutter is a dual voltage (120/240v), I crank it up as high as I can without blowing breakers on 120v (I still have to add another 220v outlet). I clamp a piece of angle iron to the stainless along my cut line, then run the plasma down the cut as quickly as I can which gives me a pretty clean cut (I learned this trick from a video on here and once I tried it I loved the process).
2) I use a hand grinder to clean off any slag, and to remove any sharp points along the cut.
3) I use a second hand grinder with 80grit flap disk to make a first pass along the edges to clean the SS about 1/2" to 3/4" back from the weld joints.
4) I make a final pass with a SS Wire brush (dedicated to just stainless)
5) I use what ever I can find to clamp the joint together, in my first attempt I tried a 90* edge to edge weld, and my attempt was from the outside of the joint. I tried to tack the joint by fusing, and all I did was make a nasty mess of burned holes. I tried several amperage settings from 15 to 100 (see question below, I may not have been doing this right). End result was an occasional tack that held, but far far too many burned holes.
If I understand your instructions above, I should have been doing my weld on the inside of the joint which would put the tungsten at a 45* to the joint with the cone resting on both sides of the joint.
Would it be better/easier for me to have a slight overhang in the joint rather than having them coming to a squared joint?
A side note, I am also following the thread about SS to Mild Steel welds as well. If I am still not feeling like I am making any progress on this by Saturday AM, I am going to slightly change my design allowing me to weld the SS to steel Angle Iron so that I can get this done. I found out last night that the Father-In-Law is coming up the first week of Aug, and he's brining Goat!!! So I al least want this first one done before he gets here!!!
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Now my amperage settings, I have a petal that has a rheostat on it that goes from zero to 200, then I have a dial on the power supply for the same range, and my amperage is displayed in a digital window. At first I would use the dial on the power supply to change the amperage. It "seemed" to make changes in the arc, but not as much as I expected. Then I tried the rheostat on the petal, and again it was not as much of a change as I expected.
How exactly should I be adjusting the amperage? (Using the rheostat on the petal makes no changes to the number displayed on the machine.)
Other than amperage, I have the argon flowing at 15-20 CFH (up from 5CFH when I was working mild steel and getting acceptable welds). I also have 1s pre-flow and 4-5s post flow. And I am using DC.
I have all the other dials basically set at 0, or centered if there is no 0. (I don't have a clue what the other stuff does and I figured 0/centered would be a good way to negate their affects as much as possible).
One other note: I picked up a spool of ER308L .030 mig wire to use as filler rod on this as well. I only had 1/8" filler rods that I was trying to make work. I'm hoping that the thinner wire will help some too.
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Hi - getting a good looking weld on 20gauge is not easy - certainly not a good place to start but for what it's worth here are a few things that may help.
If you have to use a plasma to cut the sheet consider a cleaning up allowance - clamping a straight piece of thicker flat stock to the cut edge & grinding back to this so as to eliminate any chance of oxidized metal on the edges & getting a good straight edge - the slightest gap or imperfection will cause you trouble on fusion welds - now finish on a linisher or belt sander so the edges are as straight as possible & the grit marks run lengthways not across - it does'nt take much of a mark to create a point that the weld wont readily flow - you may want to try using a thin ( 1mm ) cutting disc & a straight edge - you should not have to sand back the edges or wire brush ( only on aluminun )unless the metal is very old or contaminated - the more grit marks on the surface the more the arc is likely to wander - try to arrange joints so you don't have an open corner - they are probably the hardest to do followed by butt joints - a lap weld will always be the easiest to do - sometimes the cutting & fit up will make or break the welding results - on thin stuff try doing as much as you can vertical downhand , letting gravity help keep the weld pool moving along the joint , not trying to fall through it.
Gas flow gets talked about alot along with ceramics & gas lenses but on material this thin I think the biggest problem is getting the weld done quickly enough so you don't overheat the metal - no amount of gas seems to stop this ( I've had some luck clamping backing strips of copper behind joints on thin gauge )- I would stick to the gas flow your using - though I'm old school - never had flow meters when I started - just adjusted regulator by holding torch near ear & listened ( but turn off HF ! ) - pre flow I'd set very short ( maybe .5 sec ) - on your work it won't make much difference - just enough to cope with regulator surge - post flow I'd set longer generally although your at fairly low amps - really needs to cover tungsten till it's cooler than red or tungsten will turn black / oxidize & give problems - just check tungsten remains silver colour when cool & you have enough - without knowing your machine it's hard to advise on settings but the one with center 0 position is likely AC balance & can be ignored on DC - if you upload a picture or link to the model I'm sure someone here can help - but the basics are set to 2T & then hopefully you can ignore slope up / down - start / end amps - if you don't use pulse then this further simplifies it - just set main amps using digital panel or if using foot pedal there should be a switch to turn remote on & off - not always clearly marked if an import set ! once you switch to remote the import sets don't all display actual amps on the digital display - the amps are set on the pedal itself as a maximum when the pedal is fully down - I think the rule of 1amp per thou minus 10% for stainless is about right as a fixed current- unless you pulse - but if you can coordinate yourself then probably 1 amp per thou plus 25% set on the pedal & control the puddle that way is best - if you can do fusion welds & use both hands to keep steady / prop & maintain shortest arc length then that's how I started.
Hope some of this helps - all the best with the project.
If you have to use a plasma to cut the sheet consider a cleaning up allowance - clamping a straight piece of thicker flat stock to the cut edge & grinding back to this so as to eliminate any chance of oxidized metal on the edges & getting a good straight edge - the slightest gap or imperfection will cause you trouble on fusion welds - now finish on a linisher or belt sander so the edges are as straight as possible & the grit marks run lengthways not across - it does'nt take much of a mark to create a point that the weld wont readily flow - you may want to try using a thin ( 1mm ) cutting disc & a straight edge - you should not have to sand back the edges or wire brush ( only on aluminun )unless the metal is very old or contaminated - the more grit marks on the surface the more the arc is likely to wander - try to arrange joints so you don't have an open corner - they are probably the hardest to do followed by butt joints - a lap weld will always be the easiest to do - sometimes the cutting & fit up will make or break the welding results - on thin stuff try doing as much as you can vertical downhand , letting gravity help keep the weld pool moving along the joint , not trying to fall through it.
Gas flow gets talked about alot along with ceramics & gas lenses but on material this thin I think the biggest problem is getting the weld done quickly enough so you don't overheat the metal - no amount of gas seems to stop this ( I've had some luck clamping backing strips of copper behind joints on thin gauge )- I would stick to the gas flow your using - though I'm old school - never had flow meters when I started - just adjusted regulator by holding torch near ear & listened ( but turn off HF ! ) - pre flow I'd set very short ( maybe .5 sec ) - on your work it won't make much difference - just enough to cope with regulator surge - post flow I'd set longer generally although your at fairly low amps - really needs to cover tungsten till it's cooler than red or tungsten will turn black / oxidize & give problems - just check tungsten remains silver colour when cool & you have enough - without knowing your machine it's hard to advise on settings but the one with center 0 position is likely AC balance & can be ignored on DC - if you upload a picture or link to the model I'm sure someone here can help - but the basics are set to 2T & then hopefully you can ignore slope up / down - start / end amps - if you don't use pulse then this further simplifies it - just set main amps using digital panel or if using foot pedal there should be a switch to turn remote on & off - not always clearly marked if an import set ! once you switch to remote the import sets don't all display actual amps on the digital display - the amps are set on the pedal itself as a maximum when the pedal is fully down - I think the rule of 1amp per thou minus 10% for stainless is about right as a fixed current- unless you pulse - but if you can coordinate yourself then probably 1 amp per thou plus 25% set on the pedal & control the puddle that way is best - if you can do fusion welds & use both hands to keep steady / prop & maintain shortest arc length then that's how I started.
Hope some of this helps - all the best with the project.
Here are a couple of pictures of the face. The petal plugs into the same plug as the wire coming off of the torch.
The sheet sizes Im working with are a little to large to man handle to my belt sander, but Ill look for something I can use by hand. The way that Inhave been preping the metal should be getting all of the carbon off of the cuts. I make sure that the edges are clean when Im done, but there are a lot of scuff marks on the surface. I can't recall seeing the arc wonder, but then Im not sure I would even recognize it if it did.
Something you commented on briefly caught my eye. You mentioned the tungsten staying silver, and I can't honestly say I have ever seen mine stay clean. I attached a pic of my torch and tungsten. I have been using the same cup and tungsten for everything I have done. This pic is after welding up a angle steel and rods. I haven't touched stainless in a couple of weeks.
This pic is after rushing to get the last 3 or 4 small welds done. I dipped the tip into the material a couple of times. I usually stop after touching the weld and resharpen the tip. In this case I was short on time and "just wanted to get done". I would say though that the tungsten is usually dark when I stop, even when It remains sharp its still blackened. You can also see that the cup is picking up what looks like carbon too. Maybe this pic will help too
The sheet sizes Im working with are a little to large to man handle to my belt sander, but Ill look for something I can use by hand. The way that Inhave been preping the metal should be getting all of the carbon off of the cuts. I make sure that the edges are clean when Im done, but there are a lot of scuff marks on the surface. I can't recall seeing the arc wonder, but then Im not sure I would even recognize it if it did.
Something you commented on briefly caught my eye. You mentioned the tungsten staying silver, and I can't honestly say I have ever seen mine stay clean. I attached a pic of my torch and tungsten. I have been using the same cup and tungsten for everything I have done. This pic is after welding up a angle steel and rods. I haven't touched stainless in a couple of weeks.
This pic is after rushing to get the last 3 or 4 small welds done. I dipped the tip into the material a couple of times. I usually stop after touching the weld and resharpen the tip. In this case I was short on time and "just wanted to get done". I would say though that the tungsten is usually dark when I stop, even when It remains sharp its still blackened. You can also see that the cup is picking up what looks like carbon too. Maybe this pic will help too
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noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Wow - now that is a basic model ( but not a bad starter rig ) - 99% it's a Chinese import - but on a budget why not - I think it's the same one Eastwood market in blue - also a base model in the Cobel line up - you obviously figured the switch shares connector on pedal & torch - the other plug connecting the amp potentiometer - to use this the switch bottom right ( directly over the word inverter ) needs to be switched on to allow the pedal to control the amps - if not the set knob controls it - even if the pedal is plugged in - if using the pedal turn slope down off ( 0 ) if using torch switch experiment - I've tried a couple of similar sets of other peoples & on those it does'nt have much effect it's more to help control crater eyes on ally when not using a pedal - . the one marked clearance effect is AC balance so won't do anything when on DC - if you do try AC on ally it will want to be set between -2 & -3.
Tungsten does look cruddy & not very pointed - maybe it's a photo illusion but it appears quite big for your material - maybe it's because your using a fairly small cup - not sure but I'm guessing it's some Chinese bit of unknown quality & 2.4mm - came with the set - ditch this & get some quality 2% thoriated ( or the Guru's favourite 2% lanthanated ) in a small size even if you have to buy a collet or 2 ( anything in the 1mm > 1.6mm range will work for what your doing ) - these are cheap & readily available ( torch appears large consumable generic WP 17 ) turn the post flow to max - try to keep a good point on the tungsten - if you are using large (ish) tungsten try sharpening a much longer taper - obviously it's easy to touch the electrode & contaminate it - the only advice is practice & try using both hands to prop is fusion welding.
Using a belt sander will help better fit up - even a burr on the edge from a grinder will prevent close fit & the minutest gap will encourage blow through.
Tungsten does look cruddy & not very pointed - maybe it's a photo illusion but it appears quite big for your material - maybe it's because your using a fairly small cup - not sure but I'm guessing it's some Chinese bit of unknown quality & 2.4mm - came with the set - ditch this & get some quality 2% thoriated ( or the Guru's favourite 2% lanthanated ) in a small size even if you have to buy a collet or 2 ( anything in the 1mm > 1.6mm range will work for what your doing ) - these are cheap & readily available ( torch appears large consumable generic WP 17 ) turn the post flow to max - try to keep a good point on the tungsten - if you are using large (ish) tungsten try sharpening a much longer taper - obviously it's easy to touch the electrode & contaminate it - the only advice is practice & try using both hands to prop is fusion welding.
Using a belt sander will help better fit up - even a burr on the edge from a grinder will prevent close fit & the minutest gap will encourage blow through.
The tungstens sharpness is not representative of how I normally start with. I dipped it into the pool a couple times before setting it up and taking this pic. Ive been cleaning/sharpening the tungsten back about 1/4th inch.
Most impotantly keep in mind that I have been working steel with what your seeing. I wanted to show the carbon that builds up.
The machine is definately chinese. A friend had bought it for a project that he never started. He sold it to me still in its orginal packing for $400. The "brand" is Lotus, and it goes to 200 amps. Before he offered me this I was looking at a Miller setup that was $1900. My logic was that I could start with this unit, use it to learn and to buy the supplies I would need, then buy the Miller.
Most impotantly keep in mind that I have been working steel with what your seeing. I wanted to show the carbon that builds up.
The machine is definately chinese. A friend had bought it for a project that he never started. He sold it to me still in its orginal packing for $400. The "brand" is Lotus, and it goes to 200 amps. Before he offered me this I was looking at a Miller setup that was $1900. My logic was that I could start with this unit, use it to learn and to buy the supplies I would need, then buy the Miller.
Last night I stopped to get Argon, and I picked up some 1/16" Thoriated, and the collets to use it. I also picked up a diffuser, but I may have gotten the wrong one for my torch because I cannot figure out how it's supposed to attach.
I only got a few minutes at the bench, and I saw the On/Off Switch, I flipped it on, and the petal can control the Amperage, BUT the rheostat and the number displayed on the inverter don't seem to correlate to each other. If I crank the petal to 200, the display shows 30. Is this because I am not actually pressing the petal? I didn't actually try welding anything due to time constraints (fiancé wanted to go out).
You are right, it's a Chinese unit (LOTUS Tig200 is the model). Hard to pass up at $400 new in box from a friend. I was just about to drop $1800 on a Miller when he offered me this. Wish he actual knew how to weld so he could have taught me, but he was doing what I was (learning).
Later today I am going to go to a bigger welding supply house, I really want to get a diffuser, and I want to look at other torches too. I'm not really ready to drop the money on a water cooled setup yet, but I can see a need for it in the near future. With my torch/gloves I can weld somewhere around 8 or 9 inches before the torch is uncomfortably hot, and the project I am working on has a bunch of 30-50 inch welds to be made.
I only got a few minutes at the bench, and I saw the On/Off Switch, I flipped it on, and the petal can control the Amperage, BUT the rheostat and the number displayed on the inverter don't seem to correlate to each other. If I crank the petal to 200, the display shows 30. Is this because I am not actually pressing the petal? I didn't actually try welding anything due to time constraints (fiancé wanted to go out).
You are right, it's a Chinese unit (LOTUS Tig200 is the model). Hard to pass up at $400 new in box from a friend. I was just about to drop $1800 on a Miller when he offered me this. Wish he actual knew how to weld so he could have taught me, but he was doing what I was (learning).
Later today I am going to go to a bigger welding supply house, I really want to get a diffuser, and I want to look at other torches too. I'm not really ready to drop the money on a water cooled setup yet, but I can see a need for it in the near future. With my torch/gloves I can weld somewhere around 8 or 9 inches before the torch is uncomfortably hot, and the project I am working on has a bunch of 30-50 inch welds to be made.
noddybrian wrote:Wow - now that is a basic model ( but not a bad starter rig ) - 99% it's a Chinese import - but on a budget why not - I think it's the same one Eastwood market in blue - also a base model in the Cobel line up - you obviously figured the switch shares connector on pedal & torch - the other plug connecting the amp potentiometer - to use this the switch bottom right ( directly over the word inverter ) needs to be switched on to allow the pedal to control the amps - if not the set knob controls it - even if the pedal is plugged in - if using the pedal turn slope down off ( 0 ) if using torch switch experiment - I've tried a couple of similar sets of other peoples & on those it does'nt have much effect it's more to help control crater eyes on ally when not using a pedal - . the one marked clearance effect is AC balance so won't do anything when on DC - if you do try AC on ally it will want to be set between -2 & -3.
Tungsten does look cruddy & not very pointed - maybe it's a photo illusion but it appears quite big for your material - maybe it's because your using a fairly small cup - not sure but I'm guessing it's some Chinese bit of unknown quality & 2.4mm - came with the set - ditch this & get some quality 2% thoriated ( or the Guru's favourite 2% lanthanated ) in a small size even if you have to buy a collet or 2 ( anything in the 1mm > 1.6mm range will work for what your doing ) - these are cheap & readily available ( torch appears large consumable generic WP 17 ) turn the post flow to max - try to keep a good point on the tungsten - if you are using large (ish) tungsten try sharpening a much longer taper - obviously it's easy to touch the electrode & contaminate it - the only advice is practice & try using both hands to prop is fusion welding.
Using a belt sander will help better fit up - even a burr on the edge from a grinder will prevent close fit & the minutest gap will encourage blow through.
noddybrian
- noddybrian
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Without pressing the pedal down the potentiometer inside is set to the minimum amp value - I would expect the display to change as you press the pedal down - remember if you set 200 amps on the pedals external knob the set will still be on minimum amps until the pedal is pressed - 200 only being reached when pedal is completely pressed down - on a few import sets the display does'nt operate when the remote is used - it is hard wired to the panel control - can't say about yours.
If heat build up is a problem consider buying a WP26 torch - uses all the same consumables as a 17 & the stubby lens kit will fit both if you decide to get that - I think it's worth trying for restricted access work before going water cooled - the expense is considerable for what is a hobby set up & you may not like Tig that much - you should be able to buy just a torch head & handle & fit to your existing cable to keep down cost. If you can't find the stubby lense kit locally have a look on " the other Tig guys " site. - if you do contact him be sure to say how annoying his video intro is including him doing the " truffle shuffle " & why can't he put his gloves & stuff on ready before filming !
If heat build up is a problem consider buying a WP26 torch - uses all the same consumables as a 17 & the stubby lens kit will fit both if you decide to get that - I think it's worth trying for restricted access work before going water cooled - the expense is considerable for what is a hobby set up & you may not like Tig that much - you should be able to buy just a torch head & handle & fit to your existing cable to keep down cost. If you can't find the stubby lense kit locally have a look on " the other Tig guys " site. - if you do contact him be sure to say how annoying his video intro is including him doing the " truffle shuffle " & why can't he put his gloves & stuff on ready before filming !
If this is a new bottle of gas that you are using for this SS work, you MAY have a bad fill in the bottle.. I once got a contaminated Argon, figured the problem right off as I have TIGed bronze sculpture for 25 years. Took it back to the welding supply shop and they immediately and happily (with a good deal of apologies) replaced it. The tungsten looks contaminated. I find steel is a total pain for me, keeps jumping to the tig tip and I have to replace it. Bronze, stainless and aluminum not such a problem for me. Also thorated or lanthinated tungsten. Grind with grind lines in line with the tungsten electrode. I wish you were closer as a fast show and tell and a fast looking over your shoulder might quickly make your problem apparent and thus fixable. SS should be a piece of cake to weld so something, somewhere is off.
Hi. One thing that may help you is taking the cup off and scraping the deposits out of it then sanding smooth with fine sandpaper. A smooth flow of argon is important. Sand in the direction of the flow (although I am at best an amateur and experienced hands may think sanding direction is not important.)
I couldn't produce a good weld with a tungsten in that condition. What is your procedure for sharpening? By and large you should end each weld with the tungsten tip in its original sharpened, clean state although not as shiny, and no oxidation.
Once you get "in the zone" with this you will never look back.
The thing about tig is that the heat is highly focussed in a small point. If you are trying to fuse two sheets along an edge, you will need lower amps, quick responses, and dead straight edges - no gaps at any point at all where they join together along the entire length. As you run the torch along the join it will be like doing a zip up, and almost as quick.
So - torch in good shape, job well prepared and clean, and total concentration. You must be totally relaxed. If you are at all tense, walk away for a few minutes. There are no shortcuts but a good result is pure pleasure and pride.
Paul
New Zealand
I couldn't produce a good weld with a tungsten in that condition. What is your procedure for sharpening? By and large you should end each weld with the tungsten tip in its original sharpened, clean state although not as shiny, and no oxidation.
Once you get "in the zone" with this you will never look back.
The thing about tig is that the heat is highly focussed in a small point. If you are trying to fuse two sheets along an edge, you will need lower amps, quick responses, and dead straight edges - no gaps at any point at all where they join together along the entire length. As you run the torch along the join it will be like doing a zip up, and almost as quick.
So - torch in good shape, job well prepared and clean, and total concentration. You must be totally relaxed. If you are at all tense, walk away for a few minutes. There are no shortcuts but a good result is pure pleasure and pride.
Paul
New Zealand
I was told to use thick aluminum for a heat sink. I use 1X4" blocks, about 20 inches long. it helps a lot with the warping that stainless is known for.
Instagram: @nathanppiatt
Owner/welder at Homegrown Metal Fab
Lincoln Weld-Pak 125 HD
Lincoln AC/DC 225/125
Lincoln Port-a-torch
30" 40 ton homegrown press brake
Northern Industrial1HP 3/4" chuck, 16 speed drill press
Owner/welder at Homegrown Metal Fab
Lincoln Weld-Pak 125 HD
Lincoln AC/DC 225/125
Lincoln Port-a-torch
30" 40 ton homegrown press brake
Northern Industrial1HP 3/4" chuck, 16 speed drill press
I gave up on trying to weld the stainless, and moved on to other parts of the project for now. I figured that more practice with steel would help me work on hand to foot to hand coordination. Later when I return to trying this stainless I hope to be a little better at controlling the heat with the petal.
If I still can't manage to weld this stuff then I'll rig up some kind of brake and rivit the thing together.
If I still can't manage to weld this stuff then I'll rig up some kind of brake and rivit the thing together.