I've fabing for 45 years. A and have operated numerous machines over the years
Question for you. I've always been operating transformer machines, and even in my personal shop, but my migmaster 251 just took a dump. I'm torn on getting an inverter machine or back to a transformer,,, which are ungodly expensive.Im leary of the invertor machines just due to the reliability and the longevity of the machines. I run about 200+lbs of wire per year in my personal shop and get into 1/2 material once in awhile, so a 200 amp machine will be needed. Was looking @ the Miller 252 but again really expensive. @ 65 I don't need a machine to out last me either. I already have a tig and stick so a combination machine really isn't necessary.....any thoughts. Thanks
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There’s no “reliability” issues with inverter machines unless you buy some of the offshore made products. Even then, it’s a lottery as some folks use them with zero issues, others have hateful experiences.
But the same is true with any machine whether it’s a budget brand or a top name. Top name tend to have better results and locally available service centers, that’s why more professionals choose them.
The PrimeWeld machines are worth owning, especially for a home shop. For $1,000 you can get a brand new 285-amp machine, 3 years of warranty and find discount codes online (6061 has a 10% in fact) if Jody doesn’t have one on his website.
https://primeweld.com/products/primeweld-mig-285
But the same is true with any machine whether it’s a budget brand or a top name. Top name tend to have better results and locally available service centers, that’s why more professionals choose them.
The PrimeWeld machines are worth owning, especially for a home shop. For $1,000 you can get a brand new 285-amp machine, 3 years of warranty and find discount codes online (6061 has a 10% in fact) if Jody doesn’t have one on his website.
https://primeweld.com/products/primeweld-mig-285
Timmy_Tiggs
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I think basically all inverter machines are manufactured offshore. Show me a machine that actually says "Made in USA" on it. Legacy brands don't bother saying "assembled in the USA" because it implies foreign manufacture.
I believe what the better brands do is, first, establish a domestic company with a (in my case) US address. 2) Get shipping containers of welders from China. 3) inspect and test every unit you sell and reject the ones that don't pass. 4) Have actual support and a credible warranty.
When I first started working at my current place of employment, they didn't have a welding department. They had a Miller Synchrowave 210, a fine little machine which allowed me to pass the welding test but is woefully inadequate for serious aluminum production welding.
The local industrial gas company would have set us up with Miller gear for more than $11,000, power source, cooler, cart, torch.
I had them order an Everlast PowerTig 250, cooler, cart and Miller torch. That was a bit over a year ago. About $3,000 IIRC.
This is not a home shop. The very first thing I used it for was the essential welded components of a million-dollar architectural job in Times Square, Manhattan. I've been using it on many similar projects since. I guess if it fails, we can consider a legacy brand replacement, but, so far, so good.
I believe what the better brands do is, first, establish a domestic company with a (in my case) US address. 2) Get shipping containers of welders from China. 3) inspect and test every unit you sell and reject the ones that don't pass. 4) Have actual support and a credible warranty.
When I first started working at my current place of employment, they didn't have a welding department. They had a Miller Synchrowave 210, a fine little machine which allowed me to pass the welding test but is woefully inadequate for serious aluminum production welding.
The local industrial gas company would have set us up with Miller gear for more than $11,000, power source, cooler, cart, torch.
I had them order an Everlast PowerTig 250, cooler, cart and Miller torch. That was a bit over a year ago. About $3,000 IIRC.
This is not a home shop. The very first thing I used it for was the essential welded components of a million-dollar architectural job in Times Square, Manhattan. I've been using it on many similar projects since. I guess if it fails, we can consider a legacy brand replacement, but, so far, so good.
take the plunge on a quality inverter and you won't look back. Notice I said "quality", and not just "any". Also, if you are doing ½" once in a while, having 300A on tap will serve a whole lot better than a 200A-class machine. Not sure how you would even do ½" in any capacity with a 200A MIG using any process, unless you pre-heat perhaps? In any event look at 300A machines.Dave_21427 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 04, 2024 9:50 pm I've fabing for 45 years. A and have operated numerous machines over the years
Question for you. I've always been operating transformer machines, and even in my personal shop, but my migmaster 251 just took a dump. I'm torn on getting an inverter machine or back to a transformer,,, which are ungodly expensive.Im leary of the invertor machines just due to the reliability and the longevity of the machines. I run about 200+lbs of wire per year in my personal shop and get into 1/2 material once in awhile, so a 200 amp machine will be needed. Was looking @ the Miller 252 but again really expensive. @ 65 I don't need a machine to out last me either. I already have a tig and stick so a combination machine really isn't necessary.....any thoughts. Thanks
You run multiple passes or a different gas mix to get into spray mode if the machine is capable. 300A MIG machines are very expensive.
Or you use a TIG machine instead, or Stick process. Lots of ways to skin a cat.
I should have been more specific and said "with any MIG process", since this is what the OP was initially referring to. I know one can use different gas mixes to get into spray mode, and I have personally cut-n-etched pulsed-spray penetration on a ¼" T-joint, and while adequate there with a 200A class MIG, I'd say it would be marginal on ½" and would certainly take many passes.
Regardless of the joint configuration, you’re going to be welding multiple passes on 1/2” material with a MIG machine as at most, you might be able to run 0.045 wire and that is unlikely to give the correct leg length from a single fillet on a T. And it surely won’t provide complete fusion and fill of a 1/2” butt joint. So, you’re either beveling, multi-pass, or changing process anyway.Oscar wrote: ↑Fri Nov 15, 2024 1:27 am I should have been more specific and said "with any MIG process", since this is what the OP was initially referring to. I know one can use different gas mixes to get into spray mode, and I have personally cut-n-etched pulsed-spray penetration on a ¼" T-joint, and while adequate there with a 200A class MIG, I'd say it would be marginal on ½" and would certainly take many passes.
A 200 amp machine is perfectly appropriate. It’s a”personal shop” not a production structural welding business.
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