.what is the root opening?
.are you starting at a tack?
.amperage?.
.
.
.the size of the pipe really doesn't matter, unless there is a breeze blowing through it.
.thickness?
.bevel?
.stickout?
first of all i would just like to mention that i weld with the workpiece in a vertical position, turning it around with a rotary table.
- first of all i make sure that the bevel nose is ~0, this makes for easier penetration.
- then i clean of all the parts using acetone or something simular.
- i tack the pieces together with a 3.2mm root opening. i just use a 3.2mm fillerwire.
- with the piece tacked up i place it on a plate with a little hole in the center, then i place my purge ontop.
- when it comes to amps, i would use something like 75 for stainless and maybe 90-100 for mild steel.
- fillerwire would be 2.4mm
- most of my heat is directed on the top part while i feed wire also at the top. i then drag it down to the bottom part.
- when i've completed the full 360 degrees i overlap about 10-15mm just to eliminate any lack of penetration.
first of all i would just like to mention that i weld with the workpiece in a vertical position, turning it around with a rotary table.
- first of all i make sure that the bevel nose is ~0, this makes for easier penetration.
- then i clean of all the parts using acetone or something simular.
- i tack the pieces together with a 3.2mm root opening. i just use a 3.2mm fillerwire.
- with the piece tacked up i place it on a plate with a little hole in the center, then i place my purge ontop.
- when it comes to amps, i would use something like 75 for stainless and maybe 90-100 for mild steel.
- fillerwire would be 2.4mm
- most of my heat is directed on the top part while i feed wire also at the top. i then drag it down to the bottom part.
- when i've completed the full 360 degrees i overlap about 10-15mm just to eliminate any lack of penetration.