[Weld ON]

Hi Martl, Stahlwerk is made by china for GERMAN company ....bag of sh*t and i know because i got one of them with plasma as if on picture .Im using as step when i need to get somethig down of shelf .You need to stick with WP26 . iI try micro torche and all dif size and i had probs as you . On your picture i dont see any up and down slop amprerage . Stahlwerk have problem with frequency when size of torche and wire is different. My 220v cable melted after 15min on 180amps.... NEVER Stahlwerk

[tweake]

one other thing, whats the tungsten like? is it getting oxidized?

Tungsten remains it's original colour, no color change.
Tungsten tip is balled as it should be.

this is what makes me head scratch a bit.
if its an oxidation issue i would expect tungsten to get oxidized as well. but it sounds like its not.

what sort of pressure regulator are you using?
i wonder if your actually flowing a whole lot more argon than the gauge is telling you.
i have had it when i had way high gas flow and the argon was blowing bubbles into the molten metal.
easy to test, just try lower argon flows and see how it welds.

[Martl86]

one other thing, whats the tungsten like? is it getting oxidized?

Tungsten remains it's original colour, no color change.
Tungsten tip is balled as it should be.

this is what makes me head scratch a bit.
if its an oxidation issue i would expect tungsten to get oxidized as well. but it sounds like its not.

what sort of pressure regulator are you using?
i wonder if your actually flowing a whole lot more argon than the gauge is telling you.
i have had it when i had way high gas flow and the argon was blowing bubbles into the molten metal.
easy to test, just try lower argon flows and see how it welds.

Regulator is dedicated Ar/CO2, only used with argon. Again with other torch there is no problem. Weld puddle bubbles are not blown in, the bubbles seem to form inside the material and blow out almost like a volcano. Another thing that is weird is that the craters left behind are clean, i mean no contamination. As for gasflow, i have tested it with the lowest possible setting, when the tungsten gets oxidized, result is pretty much the same.

[tweake]

ok, that seams to rule that out.
we have seen issues with cheap gas lens and the gas ports have been undersized.
a possibility thats the case with the torch. maybe it forces gas through at higher velocity. but i would think the gas lens would settle things down.

i presume you are fitting the torch head on the correct side and the gas holes in the connection nut line up with the holes in the head.

is there any way you can block the end and throw it in a bucket of water, see where gas leaks out of ??

[Louie1961]

By eliminating your incorrect guidance. Doesn’t help to send people down unrelated rat holes don’t you think? Further, it light serve to elucidate you about variables of which you appear to be unaware.

Yeah, OK oh Swami of Welding...still SMH.

[cj737]

still SMH.

Well at least you found a use for it since you seemed unable to employ it for critical thinking.

[Louie1961]

still SMH.

Well at least you found a use for it since you seemed unable to employ it for critical thinking.

Is this why you aren't allowed in the other forum?? LMAO...

[cj737]

Is this why you aren't allowed in the other forum?? LMAO...

Which? I have never been banned from a forum. And I do participate in a few others.

[Martl86]

Did some more pressure testing on torch, about 2,5bar it started to leak between cup and cup insulator, not much but still a leak. Changed the cup and cup insulator, this time it held almost 3.3bar of pressure without any leaks.

[Martl86]

ok, that seams to rule that out.
we have seen issues with cheap gas lens and the gas ports have been undersized.
a possibility thats the case with the torch. maybe it forces gas through at higher velocity. but i would think the gas lens would settle things down.

i presume you are fitting the torch head on the correct side and the gas holes in the connection nut line up with the holes in the head.

is there any way you can block the end and throw it in a bucket of water, see where gas leaks out of ??

Picture shows how the torch is currently connected to the machine.
There is slight difference how the two torches hook up to the machine.
Left hand dinse and gas connector are bridged with solid copper strip inside the machine so i don't think that's the issue.

[Martl86]

Hi Martl, Stahlwerk is made by china for GERMAN company ....bag of sh*t and i know because i got one of them with plasma as if on picture .Im using as step when i need to get somethig down of shelf .You need to stick with WP26 . iI try micro torche and all dif size and i had probs as you . On your picture i dont see any up and down slop amprerage . Stahlwerk have problem with frequency when size of torche and wire is different. My 220v cable melted after 15min on 180amps.... NEVER Stahlwerk

Hi WeldON.

I know that Stahlwerk is Chinese made . Almost everything is from China nowadays.
As for quality of the machine, so far i can't say anything bad about it and i have had it for almost 3 years. On my picture you don't see up and down slope amperage because i am using foot pedal, which also works without any problems.
Just out of curiosity, what kind of machine i should be using?Bear in mind that i am a hobbyist welder

[Poland308]

Best one you can afford.

[BillE.Dee]

Torch cup and cap fits really snugly, i pressurised the hose with the cup end sealed and did not find any leaks

put that trouble makin torch on the machine and toss the thing into a bucket of water, then start to assemble the torch one piece at a time, each time in the bucket of water and make sure you are getting gas flow.

[Weld ON]

Hi WeldON.

I know that Stahlwerk is Chinese made . Almost everything is from China nowadays.
As for quality of the machine, so far i can't say anything bad about it and i have had it for almost 3 years. On my picture you don't see up and down slope amperage because i am using foot pedal, which also works without any problems.
Just out of curiosity, what kind of machine i should be using?Bear in mind that i am a hobbyist welder

Hello Martl,

oh i see , yes i have pedal to .... as hobby welder you dont need more expensive welding machine but once you weld with
Fronius, Esab,Rehm,Kemppi and for people with low knowledge of welding brand do not try to use words like Lincoln - because that was president ,Eastwood - oh no wood and welding ,Everlast then for sure Everylast and i can continue

So back to ac/dc200a material quality so bad , HF noise like somebody welding inside a was buying because of plasma but is without HF so like i said im usind as step and when i try to put tourch around my arm then i almost lost my hand ..

But seriously for garage and if you dont need perfect welding then is ok and you have all in one TIG , Stick , Plasma and i paid for XXL Pack about 850 pounds ,that was 6y a go, but be honest as step is great .. If your HF is not working then open machine and clean contacts ..Have a nice day.

[Martl86]

Best one you can afford.

I can afford more expensive machine, but as a hobbyist welder i cannot justify to myself buying more expensive machine

[Poland308]

Best one you can afford.

I can afford more expensive machine, but as a hobbyist welder i cannot justify to myself buying more expensive machine

You only think that now. After you have your machine for a year you’ll understand.

[G-ManBart]

You only think that now. After you have your machine for a year you’ll understand.

In one of his replies to you he said he's had it nearly 3 years.

[Poland308]

You only think that now. After you have your machine for a year you’ll understand.

In one of his replies to you he said he's had it nearly 3 years.

I was under the impression when he said he could afford a better machine that he was looking to replace his current machine. Due to the fact it was giving “weird issues”. Sorry I offended your exceptional powers of observation.

Edit. I double checked it wasn’t a reply to me.

[Weld ON]

If i will have to buy 2mrw then

https://www.1stopweldingshop.com/Catalo ... TIG-Welder

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kemppi-Maste ... .l4275.c10

https://engweld.co.uk/product/460150882 ... ig-package


https://www.stuermer-machines.com/brand ... h-1406182/


now im using rehm and i will buy again , you will see full video about rehm on my channel soon , and im on mood to buy new fronius or kemppi . Be honest guys other brands .... hmmmmm.... i used almost every brand if not all in my life and i know for sure they just look like welding machine that all what i can say ...

[Greybeard]

I'd like to jump in here if I can because this sounds just like a problem I'm having with a AHP Alpha-Tig 201 XD.
Bought this because I wanted to try pulse and my Miller doesn't have that feature.
I've only used it maybe 4 times and it was working well until the HF start acting up and there was no cleaning action.
I adjusted the points as the company tech instructed.
Then he listed what settings to use for further evaluation
The only setting I didn't agree with was 30 CFH with a #7 cup and I also use a gas lens.
Anyway, seemed to start out OK.
Got 3 beads that were not too bad.
Then it went haywire again.
Heat went way up, blew the tip off the cup, white soot all over, melted holes and craters instead of forming a puddle.
This was with 6061, .187", wire brushed, cleaned, 3/32 2% lanthanated, .125" stick out...as instructed.
135 amps, 120hz, 35% AC balance, 5 second post flow.
Anyone?

[Oscar]

I'd like to jump in here if I can because this sounds just like a problem I'm having with a AHP Alpha-Tig 201 XD.
Bought this because I wanted to try pulse and my Miller doesn't have that feature.
I've only used it maybe 4 times and it was working well until the HF start acting up and there was no cleaning action.
I adjusted the points as the company tech instructed.
Then he listed what settings to use for further evaluation
The only setting I didn't agree with was 30 CFH with a #7 cup and I also use a gas lens.
Anyway, seemed to start out OK.
Got 3 beads that were not too bad.
Then it went haywire again.
Heat went way up, blew the tip off the cup, white soot all over, melted holes and craters instead of forming a puddle.
This was with 6061, .187", wire brushed, cleaned, 3/32 2% lanthanated, .125" stick out...as instructed.
135 amps, 120hz, 35% AC balance, 5 second post flow.
Anyone?

is your AC balance designated as % = EN or %= EP ?

[kiwi2wheels]

I'd like to jump in here if I can because this sounds just like a problem I'm having with a AHP Alpha-Tig 201 XD.
Bought this because I .................................

Then it went haywire again.
Heat went way up, blew the tip off the cup, white soot all over, melted holes and craters instead of forming a puddle.
This was with 6061, .187", wire brushed, cleaned, 3/32 2% lanthanated, .125" stick out...as instructed.
135 amps, 120hz, 35% AC balance, 5 second post flow.
Anyone?

I was using a Syncrowave 350 on DC, using 1/16", 2% at about 50A, that did the exploding cup act and vaporized the tungsten off the collet. It was a bad circuit board. Turn all your settings ( start current, up/down slope, etc to zero/off ) and strike / run an arc and watch the current meter or have someone watch for you, see what reading it gives and if it blows the cup again. In my case, it was spiking to around 300 A immediately I hit the pedal.

[Greybeard]

is your AC balance designated as % = EN or %= EP ?

Lower % number is EP

[traveller88]

Hello, first post. So I am welding 1/8 aluminum and my arc keeps flickering I mean I can hear my gas turn on and off. My tungsten didn’t touch anything and I had a tight arc. Fyi 17 nova rotoflex

[BillE.Dee]

is your AC balance designated as % = EN or %= EP ?

Lower % number is EP

some machines are opposite.