howdy-
I have heard of using an inverter welder with an acid wash for doing SS counter tops. Anyone know the ins/outs of this, or a better idea? I have been using a belt sander and 3M w/ elbow grease after TIG. it works ok, but I think it can be better. maybe mig? help...
Thanks in advance-
mister bobo
rickbreezy
- rickbreezy
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Joined:Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:08 pm
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Location:Norfolk, Va
I would think you would want to use tig if for nothing else but the asthetic qualities of the weld bead appearence, but thats assuming that you leave the bead down, and it sounds like you might be sanding it off. if your not, then an acid wash will remove any impurities before and after the weld, giving it more of a "finish" type appearence. However, whenever I do any "finish" type work, I sand the bead off with a sandpaper padded grinding wheel, which is probably much faster than a sanding belt, and has more potential for precision. (and more potential for fucking up)
If you are sanding the bead off though, I think I would use mig for its high production qualities.
I have always used 80 grit(I think) and the down side to this is that you pretty much have to sand the whole piece to give it a uniform appearence. But my bet is that is you used a very very fine grit of sand belt/wheel, you could blend it in to the rest of the piece.
But I'm not sure now if I aswered your question at all, but all the same, I hope this helps.
-Rick
If you are sanding the bead off though, I think I would use mig for its high production qualities.
I have always used 80 grit(I think) and the down side to this is that you pretty much have to sand the whole piece to give it a uniform appearence. But my bet is that is you used a very very fine grit of sand belt/wheel, you could blend it in to the rest of the piece.
But I'm not sure now if I aswered your question at all, but all the same, I hope this helps.
-Rick
rickbreezy
- rickbreezy
-
Guide
-
Posts:
-
Joined:Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:08 pm
-
Location:Norfolk, Va
I would think you would want to use tig if for nothing else but the asthetic qualities of the weld bead appearence, but thats assuming that you leave the bead down, and it sounds like you might be sanding it off. if your not, then an acid wash will remove any impurities before and after the weld, giving it more of a "finish" type appearence. However, whenever I do any "finish" type work, I sand the bead off with a sandpaper padded grinding wheel, which is probably much faster than a sanding belt, and has more potential for precision. (and more potential for fucking up)
If you are sanding the bead off though, I think I would use mig for its high production qualities.
I have always used 80 grit(I think) and the down side to this is that you pretty much have to sand the whole piece to give it a uniform appearence. But my bet is that is you used a very very fine grit of sand belt/wheel, you could blend it in to the rest of the piece.
But I'm not sure now if I aswered your question at all, but all the same, I hope this helps.
-Rick
If you are sanding the bead off though, I think I would use mig for its high production qualities.
I have always used 80 grit(I think) and the down side to this is that you pretty much have to sand the whole piece to give it a uniform appearence. But my bet is that is you used a very very fine grit of sand belt/wheel, you could blend it in to the rest of the piece.
But I'm not sure now if I aswered your question at all, but all the same, I hope this helps.
-Rick
Try to get a 2in1 flapper for your grinder. I use these with great results. Heavy on the pressure and they cut, lighten up and they buff up nicely. The wheel resembles a regular flapper but has strips of the 3M style pads between each of the sanding flaps. They also come in a rotary drum style for contour work. I have used the Walther brand, but I am sure they are available through other manufacturers. Be careful of acids, they will dull and are a bear to color up.
i use an inverter, Thermal Arc 95s welder to TiG in resteraunt kitchens, on deep fryers,counter tops,dishwashers,....(you get the idea)....and the USDA inspector in our area is
pretty tough, he uses a cotton ball to determine if a weld is "spec" or sanitary to his standards, i have had the best results with a 3/32" tungsten and 316L filler (1/16" size).....cup walk {rattleback corners} when you can.
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no ripple bead.
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use a flapwheel or a 2 in 1 like the other post mentioned.....or try the new thing ,it's an "Aluminum Blending Pad" i've been getting some from Fastenal (i think) they are sawdust colored and have the faint odor of brake shoes ,but they are safe to buff a weld with and less aggressive than sanding pad, easier to control and cost about $2.00 less than a cheap flap wheel...
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vinegar to preclean, it drives away oils,not toxic, use lemon pledge to take off fingerprints and rainbow tracks (h.a.zone)when you get done polishing....
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p.s....carry some cotton balls so you can check your work!
pretty tough, he uses a cotton ball to determine if a weld is "spec" or sanitary to his standards, i have had the best results with a 3/32" tungsten and 316L filler (1/16" size).....cup walk {rattleback corners} when you can.
.
.
no ripple bead.
.
.
.
use a flapwheel or a 2 in 1 like the other post mentioned.....or try the new thing ,it's an "Aluminum Blending Pad" i've been getting some from Fastenal (i think) they are sawdust colored and have the faint odor of brake shoes ,but they are safe to buff a weld with and less aggressive than sanding pad, easier to control and cost about $2.00 less than a cheap flap wheel...
.
.
vinegar to preclean, it drives away oils,not toxic, use lemon pledge to take off fingerprints and rainbow tracks (h.a.zone)when you get done polishing....
.
.
p.s....carry some cotton balls so you can check your work!