[Burning Filler Rod]

O'Most Knowledgeable Ones,,,,,

Square Tubing (11ga, 14ga, 16ga, hot rolled), is driving me crazy. I'm all over the board trying to find a 'sweet spot'. Here's what I got, for this I'll use 14ga:

Hot Rolled 1"x2" - 14 gauge that measures 0.073" Cleaned and shinny.

Tungsten: 2% Lan, 3/32", 30 degree grind.

Cup Size: #7. Normal #7 stick out for sides and stick out for #8 cup on the T-joints.

Argon: Sides 20 cfm, Tee Joints 15 cfm. No pre-flow and 5 sec post.

Fuller Rod: 1/16" ER70S-2.

Amperage Setting: 65 for sides and 73 for the fillets. Using Pedal. (I've gone up and down)

I'm trying to get my TIG game going at least as good as when I MIG'ed this same stuff,,,,, BUT. I'm not gonna to give up....

Any pointers???

[LtBadd]

The fillets don't look too bad, just a couple of spots. Remember to keep as tight of an arc that you can, also the end of the tube should be clean as well, contaminates can be pulled into the weld if it's not.

I would recommend at least a 0.3 sec pre flow to ensure the arc is started with shielding, also if the tungsten is discolored when you finish then a longer post flow is needed, not much maybe 8 seconds.

The pic below shows a lap joint, but applies to a fillet too.

end view.jpg (11.05 KiB) Viewed 1732 times

[tweake]

O'Most Knowledgeable Ones,,,,,

Square Tubing (11ga, 14ga, 16ga, hot rolled), is driving me crazy. I'm all over the board trying to find a 'sweet spot'. Here's what I got, for this I'll use 14ga:

Hot Rolled 1"x2" - 14 gauge that measures 0.073" Cleaned and shinny.

Tungsten: 2% Lan, 3/32", 30 degree grind.

Cup Size: #7. Normal #7 stick out for sides and stick out for #8 cup on the T-joints.

Argon: Sides 20 cfm, Tee Joints 15 cfm. No pre-flow and 5 sec post.

Fuller Rod: 1/16" ER70S-2.

Amperage Setting: 65 for sides and 73 for the fillets. Using Pedal. (I've gone up and down)

I'm trying to get my TIG game going at least as good as when I MIG'ed this same stuff,,,,, BUT. I'm not gonna to give up....

Any pointers???

i think your amps are way to low (on the corner joint)
i don't do much in the way of tig on steel but calc says 80-120 amps. i would set it at 120 amp and then you can drop it as required.
you can tell its cold as your only heating the side of the joint and not getting down into the root. grind angle of the tungsten will effect it to.
you need to get it to puddle in the root, use plenty of amps and increase travel speed.

[Oscar]

I agree, likely you are feathering the pedal and not realizing it. We can't see through your eyes, but make sure you can see the puddle and just barely distinguish the tip of the tungsten. This will go a looooong ways to keeping a consistently short arc.

We didn't see the arc while you were welding, and you didn't describe it. I bet it was not always going into the root of the joint? Was it favoring one part or the other? Do go ahead and describe what was going on.

[Simclardy]

I would preflow and a bit longer post as others stated. 20cfm is way too much. Try 20cfh. Lol. Sorry.
Looks ok. I think you need to just get more practice for consistency. And i would use higher amps. Especially on the filet. Miller has a good calculator you can use for free.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[BillE.Dee]

like others have said....UP the amps and control them with the pedal...get right in the joint (tight arc) and can you adjust the frequency? You might have to get a heavier filler to keep running.
Have fun, practice and stay safe.

[Oscar]

and can you adjust the frequency?

He's welding hot-rolled steel. You're thinking of something else.

[BillE.Dee]

roopsie....my bad. Saw the pictures and it sure is shiny. So, it isn't possible to narrow or widen the arc unless moving the torch closer or further away ? OR different size tungsten and grind ?.... I honestly haven't messed with the steel stuff, but I'ma gonna.
Stay safe and healthy.

[Burning Filler Rod]

Hey All,

Yesterday after reading all the great input here I applied them to my technique and started getting better weld results. I really appreciate the input.

I've also discovered my biggest failing... It is not focusing my attention on the leading edge of the puddle. I find myself drifting off to other areas of the weld. So much going on during the TIG process. I guess it is going to take lots of time and practice.

So,,, I'll tell myself to: Dry run the weld path, listen to the sound of the arc, watch the puddle's leading edge, and stop chewing gum at the same time........

Thanks again......

[Oscar]

Yup, but the good thing is once you have your technique down, its difficult to forget, kinda like riding a bike. Sure you may fall out of practice, but it's easy to pick up again with just a little bit of practice again.

[Burning Filler Rod]

Yup, but the good thing is once you have your technique down, its difficult to forget, kinda like riding a bike. Sure you may fall out of practice, but it's easy to pick up again with just a little bit of practice again.

Oscar,

Thanks for the vote of confidence.... I gotta tell you that I used to think that MIG or Stick was the medium for real men and TIG was medium for 'girly-boys' that would sit on office roll chairs, in a well lighted air-conditioned room, wearing white goat skinned gloves, and dab at shinny clean items while sipping Chardonnay ....... WOW, was I ever wrong. TIG will instantly humble you. I'm ashamed of myself to ever thinking such incorrect thoughts and apologize for such..!

Even being slightly frustrated at this point in time, I'm still pleased that I started this vertical climb up the TIG learning curve.

Thanks to all for the advice and input...
See Ya, Bye

[bap_]

Good rule of thumb is 1 amp per thousands of an inch on carbon steel.

https://www.benedict-miller.com/content ... age_id/141

14ga is about .083 so I'd set the machine for 85 to 90 amps.

Stainless steel multiply by 2/3 (.66) for amp range which is approx 60 amps.

Just guidelines, but they get you in the ball park.

[bap_]

Get a cheap pair of calipers. They're great for measuring thickness of stuff.

[Burning Filler Rod]

Good rule of thumb is 1 amp per thousands of an inch on carbon steel.

https://www.benedict-miller.com/content ... age_id/141

14ga is about .083 so I'd set the machine for 85 to 90 amps.

Stainless steel multiply by 2/3 (.66) for amp range which is approx 60 amps.

Just guidelines, but they get you in the ball park.

dap_

In a perfect world a 2"X4" would measure just that and 3/4" plywood would also measure 3/4". Ahh but, we do not live in 'Oz' where all is in color and wonderful.

I do use a very good vernier caliper. I reset the 'origin' often due to it's sensitivity in changes of daily temperatures. (See Below)

I purchase my hot rolled steel in Florida and it always checks less than is stated in the metal tables. I do use the '0.001" rule up to about 1/4" steel and apply that rule as a 'starting' point.

Remember that I'm just starting out learning GTAW. So, lots of my welds, (fillets, butts, laps) I can't do at fast travel speeds or proper amperage like you folks. Heck, I'm lucky to find the pedal let alone modulate it.

Thanks for the input and know I am not a quitter.... Semper Fidelis..!!

[LtBadd]

in a well lighted air-conditioned room, wearing white goat skinned gloves, and dab at shinny clean items while sipping Chardonnay[/i] .......

Actually it's Merlot

[bap_]

In a perfect world a 2"X4" would measure just that and 3/4" plywood would also measure 3/4". Ahh but, we do not live in 'Oz' where all is in color and wonderful.

Heh you aren't wrong Although some folks around here do live in Oz.

Totally understand you are learning as well, didn't mean any offense.

I think you're doing great. T joints in my opinion are the hardest joint to learn. Once it "clicks" you'll be a pro. Keep up the good work.

Here is another little practice piece if you're interested. Good way to practice a couple different joints at once and learn how to order them and tac every thing to prevent warping and stuff. If you have aluminum blocks try a couple welds with and without to see how the blocks help prevent scaling on the backside of T's as well.

https://a360.co/2UNo3XC

[Burning Filler Rod]

in a well lighted air-conditioned room, wearing white goat skinned gloves, and dab at shinny clean items while sipping Chardonnay[/i] .......

Actually it's Merlot

LtBadd,,,,, I stand corrected. Thanks for not taking offense....!! It's all in the spirit of good old fun.

[Burning Filler Rod]

Here is another little practice piece if you're interested. Good way to practice a couple different joints at once and learn how to order them and tac every thing to prevent warping and stuff. If you have aluminum blocks try a couple welds with and without to see how the blocks help prevent scaling on the backside of T's as well.

https://a360.co/2UNo3XC

bap_

Thanks for the uplift and I'll use the suggested weld drills.... Guuuud-Stuffff...!