Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
wow....well that was different ..... this aluminum is no where near as easy as it looks.....and i touched my torch to the plate a few times and saw the pretty smoke it makes.... ok kid get ur head straight and get back in class tomorrow and figure this out.... i dont have the time to be making mistakes like this im down to 4 1/2 weeks to get this oh.... any suggestions for the first timer?
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
- Otto Nobedder
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It's a tough nut to crack, at first, but once you get it, you'll wonder why you had so much trouble at first.
I do not do aluminum without a remote amp control. It's possible, and I've seen it done, but I'll pass.
I always set for about half again the amps the material should require. When tacking, I barely crack the pedal (opposite of what I do with steel), get my electrode centered, and slowly bring the amps up... I want the arc to dance between the two parts and slowly heat each side. Ally carries heat away fast, so I take my time here to heat-soak the area I want to tack, until I have a small puddle on each side at a fairly low amperage. Then I'll mash the pedal and feed the rod, and back off quickly once the parts are tied. Don't shut down here, just back off, and keep feeding a bit of rod so you don't leave a crater, as aluminum tacks love to crack if you don't have enough metal in them.
Once I'm tacked up I'll wire-brush everything again.
When I start to weld, I don't "mash" it to the floor, I bring it up over about two seconds so I can focus the arc, but I take it to my max setting just until the puddle is established at the size I want. Then it's feed-advance like any other freehand weld, except as the material heat-soaks, you have to gradually back off the pedal as you advance-- The width of the puddle is your cue.
Here's where you're making smoke-- You're used to welding steel. Keep the tungsten two rod-widths off the puddle. When you feed the rod and that aluminum melts, it's going to expand much more than steel (and shrink more when it cools). When I've been welding steel for a week or two and get a quick aluminum job, I'm going to smoke it at least once, and I did it today.
Just two cents, and you may get different advice from others.
Steve S
I do not do aluminum without a remote amp control. It's possible, and I've seen it done, but I'll pass.
I always set for about half again the amps the material should require. When tacking, I barely crack the pedal (opposite of what I do with steel), get my electrode centered, and slowly bring the amps up... I want the arc to dance between the two parts and slowly heat each side. Ally carries heat away fast, so I take my time here to heat-soak the area I want to tack, until I have a small puddle on each side at a fairly low amperage. Then I'll mash the pedal and feed the rod, and back off quickly once the parts are tied. Don't shut down here, just back off, and keep feeding a bit of rod so you don't leave a crater, as aluminum tacks love to crack if you don't have enough metal in them.
Once I'm tacked up I'll wire-brush everything again.
When I start to weld, I don't "mash" it to the floor, I bring it up over about two seconds so I can focus the arc, but I take it to my max setting just until the puddle is established at the size I want. Then it's feed-advance like any other freehand weld, except as the material heat-soaks, you have to gradually back off the pedal as you advance-- The width of the puddle is your cue.
Here's where you're making smoke-- You're used to welding steel. Keep the tungsten two rod-widths off the puddle. When you feed the rod and that aluminum melts, it's going to expand much more than steel (and shrink more when it cools). When I've been welding steel for a week or two and get a quick aluminum job, I'm going to smoke it at least once, and I did it today.
Just two cents, and you may get different advice from others.
Steve S
under the hood
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Just get as many hours in as possible, just easy positions to start with and once you are getting decent results push yourself into more difficult situations. But it is hours on the torch that will make you good at it. Experiment with everything.
ok lemme see if i can do this uploading photo thing..... im gonna try a few of my first attempts at aluminum TIG http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s55 ... c53b8e.jpg
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
It takes a lot of seat time to get good. Another thing to try is what type of tungsten are you using? They say green and ball it at the end (I don't care for that but we all like different things). Try red or blue tungsten and put a tip on it like you would on steel nice point and see if that is better?
Ravendave
Ravendave
well being today was just my second day trying this and teach says use green and ball it thats what i been doing....i used about a half a stick today making contact with the work and the filler either or both i get another 5 hours under the hood tomorrow after i take a book test on alloys in the morning ... i got a pic of my best run lemme see if i can post it as well ..... http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s55 ... f5f1ae.jpg
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
That ain't half-bad, for second time out!
- 1359492861773_zps03f5f1ae.jpg (32.02 KiB) Viewed 1428 times
thanks man..... i had better get a grip on this thing because this class is finished 25 feb and right now im behind i have 4 positions and a water tight box to make between now and then.....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
- Otto Nobedder
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Breathe.
You're ahead of the game. The recent training has you in learning mode. The learning curve ahead is no different from the road you've been on.
I assure you, once it starts to click, you'll get it quickly.
You're ahead of the game. The recent training has you in learning mode. The learning curve ahead is no different from the road you've been on.
I assure you, once it starts to click, you'll get it quickly.
funny you use that word.....a few have told me that is the most important part and that we have a tendency to hold our breath wheile running a bead and damn if its not so... i find myself holding my breath as not to make a move other than run a bead .... when i concentrate on breathing under the hood and my hands and foot i get a good one down... ill have to remember that more often than not
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
if i dont get control of this pedal ill never pass this course......http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s55 ... 4846e2.jpg ... http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s55 ... 26edeb.jpg
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
Are you able to see the tungsten and puddle as you weld? These joints are where the tig finger really shines. I weld tee's (inside corners) drawing toward me in forward travel so that I get a perfect view of the works all the way to the end. Maybe take a photo of how you are holding the torch into the joint as well from the perspective you are seeing it from. It looks more like a torch angle/timing issue to me. Which is what I would expect if you are new to this.
Miller ABP 330, Syncrowave 250, Dynasty 300 DX.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
Honorary member of the Fraternity of Faded Tee Shirts.
- Otto Nobedder
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That makes sense.
I think the troubles are from having only steel experience. The approach angle, stick-out, and the distance from the tungsten to the puddle.
Habit learned is hard to break, especially for an animal as different from steel as aluminum is.
I think the troubles are from having only steel experience. The approach angle, stick-out, and the distance from the tungsten to the puddle.
Habit learned is hard to break, especially for an animal as different from steel as aluminum is.
right now my troubles are this.....lap joints......and my trouble is in dialing the machine in i can get a puddle started on the top but not the bottom so i get on the peddle a bit more and get the bottom started then the top blows out ok change torch angle blow the top out and no puddle on the bottom change angle again get the puddle going on the bottom but i cant get it to connect to the top give it a little more peddle and blow the top out again.....grab work piece in frustration to throw it across the shop and burn my hands clean thru the gloves then i begin to teach the 25 yrold kids in the class new cuss words including the 35 year old teacher whos 13yrs my junior .... so what we have at the end is a crotchety old man who cant weld aluminum in the vertical position but can teach a new crop of foul mouthed 20? yr olds....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
That HFAC wants to take the shortest path, to the sharpest corner (the nature of HF). In a lap joint, that's usually the corner of the overlaying piece. Here's a cheat, if they'll let you... Round the corner of the overlay. Even just a little will help. When you're building heat for your initial start, get CLOSE in the corner. Sit there a while, just putting heat in the metal. Move the tungsten side to side a bit, and watch the arc jump from the base to the overlay. You want more heat in the overlay at first. When the molten metal is as wide as you need the puddle, feed and stomp (and lift the tungsten, or the puddle will touch it). Once it's tied together, focus the arc at the top of the puddle, toward the base, as the heat will naturally move toward the overlay.
I'm not sure this will make sense, until it "clicks" for you. Saying it and doing it are different animals.
Steve S
I'm not sure this will make sense, until it "clicks" for you. Saying it and doing it are different animals.
Steve S
will this work in vertical uphill and or overhead?.... i did something kinda like that on flat and horizontal with out the grinding....but yes teach will let me machine the work piece however i see fit
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
ps i applied for a job at the local tank manufacturer (food grade Stainless tanks) and this guy in conversation told me in a joking manner that if i have passed mild steel and stainless steel in all 4 positions and aluminum in flat and horizontal that i should take my toys and run...that i would never use vert. up or overhead in "real world situations" with aluminum ....any input on that? ....im goning to finish my studies all the same i have only two weeks to go makes no sense to me to come this far on my own dime to bail out now.....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
Maybe in HIS world, you'll never need 3g/4g aluminum.... But he's selling you a job, or at least speaking from his perspective.
- Otto Nobedder
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Consider what this guy wants to pay, and says you don't need 3/4g Al. Then consider what the guy who DOES think you need them will pay....
- weldin mike 27
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Hey,
Great point otto, its always better to have another "tool" to use if the need arises.
Mick
Great point otto, its always better to have another "tool" to use if the need arises.
Mick
i am sticking with it and i do at this point see the troubles he speaks of but i would rather while still in school get some hands on than to be in the work force and have the boss man say "hey you rookie go run me a lap joint up under that ...." and never have done anything overhead.....PS....lap joints vertical on aluminum are kicking my arse BAD .... <<<< my face in school this morning...but i am going back for more this afternoon
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
- Otto Nobedder
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Jan 06, 2011 11:40 pm
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Location:Near New Orleans
That's the nature of welding...
If you're not a bit of a masochist, this is the wrong career...
If you're not a bit of a masochist, this is the wrong career...
oh dont get me wrong...im loving every bit of it...i just hope theres room for me in the work force when im done with school
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside,
thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
- WOW- What a Ride
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