Seems that the solenoid valve on my Lincoln PT185 has gone belly-up.
It's made by CEME. P/N 5563NB3, OSA8R44.
It seems to allow gas to flow but it never activates the cooling fan and so for the first time in my life the machine stopped dead the other day and the overheating light came on.
I've considered just hard-wiring the fan to the incoming power just to get me up and running again but in the long run I should really replace this valve.
Just can't find it on the net.
Any ideas as to where to look?
Jon
Mike Westbrook
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By the looks of the diagram any 115 volt gas solenoid will work look on Amazon but it also appears the gas valve and fan get a shared power from the main transformer then the PC board controls the fan and solenoid separate check for power between the solenoid fan splice and ground when powered up if that's ok I'd worry about the PC board I do not see the thermal switch in the diagram usually attached to the transformer to tell the fan to kick on unless it's to run continueus my Lincoln's are fan on demand
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Cutting torch hammer and a full vocabulary
Mike, Thanks a lot for that.
Admittedly, my hunch that the solenoid was bad was not based on a study of the wiring diagram.
I know the fan is good. I took it out and plugged it into the wall (120V) and it runs fine.
My PT185 is also fan-on-demand. It will come on when I turn the machine on and then not until it's needed.
So, if I'm following what you're saying, I'm going to meter between the wire that comes off that solenoid to the fan and ground. You'd think I'd get 120V when the fan needs to come on. That's simple to simulate - I think if I switch from TIG to stick and then back to TIG, the fan will come on automatically.
If I don't get 120V between those two, then I'm thinking that it might be the solenoid still. If I do get 120V, then I guess I'll have to check the PC board. Must admit, I'm not totally prepared for that PC board to be bad...
But if it's gone, then it's gone I suppose.
Check back later on to see what I came up with. I'd like to bounce this off you as I proceed.
Jon
Admittedly, my hunch that the solenoid was bad was not based on a study of the wiring diagram.
I know the fan is good. I took it out and plugged it into the wall (120V) and it runs fine.
My PT185 is also fan-on-demand. It will come on when I turn the machine on and then not until it's needed.
So, if I'm following what you're saying, I'm going to meter between the wire that comes off that solenoid to the fan and ground. You'd think I'd get 120V when the fan needs to come on. That's simple to simulate - I think if I switch from TIG to stick and then back to TIG, the fan will come on automatically.
If I don't get 120V between those two, then I'm thinking that it might be the solenoid still. If I do get 120V, then I guess I'll have to check the PC board. Must admit, I'm not totally prepared for that PC board to be bad...
But if it's gone, then it's gone I suppose.Check back later on to see what I came up with. I'd like to bounce this off you as I proceed.
Jon
Mike Westbrook
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I would look on the transformer and the diode assy. For a two wire switch and jump those to see if the fan runs the solenoid and fan should have nothing to do with each other besides common power
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Cutting torch hammer and a full vocabulary
It might be easier to just wire the fan to run all the time. If your getting gas then there’s nothing wrong with the solenoid. Even if the solenoid is bad you can just bypass the machine, hook the gas regulator to the torch and then get a torch with a gas valve. Will cost about $50 for the new torch.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
MIke and Poland, Thanks a lot.
I had considered just hard-wiring the fan. It might be as easy as that. I guess if I have a "motherboard" problem it will show up sooner or later... And yeah - I can afford a new torch if it turns out that the solenoid is bad.
I did check voltage between the solenoid fan splice and ground, as you suggested. I get 8.5V with the fan not running and 13.5V when the fan should be running. Interestingly enough, when the welder is switched to AC, I get those numbers. When I switch it to DC+ or DC-, I get 30.5V with the fan off and 36.5V when the fan should be running.
When I turn the machine on, I do get a definite klunk as the solenoid closes at start-up and I hear it release depending on how long my post-flow knob is set for. So the solenoid doesn't seem to be the problem.
I'll try shorting out those two leads. If I can find them. I'm not a super-techno electrical guy and I'd hate to short the wrong two wires and fry everything...
Jon
I had considered just hard-wiring the fan. It might be as easy as that. I guess if I have a "motherboard" problem it will show up sooner or later... And yeah - I can afford a new torch if it turns out that the solenoid is bad.
I did check voltage between the solenoid fan splice and ground, as you suggested. I get 8.5V with the fan not running and 13.5V when the fan should be running. Interestingly enough, when the welder is switched to AC, I get those numbers. When I switch it to DC+ or DC-, I get 30.5V with the fan off and 36.5V when the fan should be running.
When I turn the machine on, I do get a definite klunk as the solenoid closes at start-up and I hear it release depending on how long my post-flow knob is set for. So the solenoid doesn't seem to be the problem.
I'll try shorting out those two leads. If I can find them. I'm not a super-techno electrical guy and I'd hate to short the wrong two wires and fry everything...
Jon