[tungstendipper]

image001.jpg

had to repair this.
i bought a cheap freight damaged frame from a welding store and it looks like someone replaced a part.
looks like flux core, no slag removed just painted over. didn't see any cleaned spot for earth clamp.
it also didn't fit well.

image004.jpg

cut apart, tig back together. used old 2.4mm tig rod as packers to fill in a big gap.
quick grind and splash of paint.

Now that's an improvement!

[JayWal]

A little Saturday afternoon project today, a carpenter buddy of mine wanted some carts made for his cabinetry shop. I thought this was a pretty simple design, it’s 30’ of 2x2 by 3/16 angle, 6’ and 5x1/4 flat bar for the casters to bolt to. Turned out all right I’d say. I told him I’d make one now in exchange for free range of his shop next Saturday and all the lumber I need for a new table and shelving in my storage room at work. And I’d make more in winter as I find time. He agreed :

He’ll just lay on a 3/4 sheet of plywood on top and cover it with carpet to avoid scratching his work pieces. Same with underneath. He’s happy, I’m happy

I'll bet it was nice to weld something that didn't have to do with potatoes!

This is what the potatoes look like up here Stupid global warming

[tungstendipper]

What's all that white stuff? We are suppose to get that "stuff" here (eastern plains of Colorado) tonight.

[Coldman]

The fellas wanted me to tack up some staino tube hanger brackets as they have difficulty buying them here in the backside of the world.
They picked up the 25x3 (1"x 1/8") flat and M10 nuts. They even cut it up, drilled them and marked the centres. All I had to do was sit at a nice clean bench on a stool with everything at my finger tips and tack em up. Didn't even get my hands dirty.

ss brackets.jpg (67.92 KiB) Viewed 4643 times

Incidentally, I used a third hand to hold down the opposite side of the first tack. Obviously it kept the nut in position while I tacked but what I also noticed that the nut stayed flat on the bar under the weight of the third hand. Without it the nut lifted slightly off the bar under shrinkage and therefore needed clamping.

This shop has a nice big band saw with repeat stop and pedestal drill, but the fellas marked out each piece then used battery grinder and drill. I had to sweep up after them. I said nothing.

[Poland308]

Didn’t know gravy came in a box! Got a love the easy days.

[LtBadd]

Looks good coldman!

[Poland308]

F3F4BD7E-3349-41AE-994A-DC8F9D7AAC6F.jpeg (73.3 KiB) Viewed 4828 times

Some of the stuff I’ve been working on lately

ACEB352A-A51C-45C1-8A83-E3116C52ED71.jpeg (66.06 KiB) Viewed 4828 times

New ice builder at a small food plant.

[Poland308]

111EF07C-7265-44ED-8382-54E374867EB3.jpeg (49.93 KiB) Viewed 4827 times

A77D2F98-2846-42DA-80FC-B0D4B9C17521.jpeg (57.31 KiB) Viewed 4827 times

About 300 ft of 4inch sch 10 SS steam main. All purged because it will be used on food. These were before it got insulated. The big Evapco in the distance was part of what we are adding as well.

[Coldman]

Nice job Josh!

Staino is tidy and clean.
Ammonia pipes are, well, ammonia pipes but outside under that beautiful blue sky, I love that work. I notice the spaghetti is all done with socket weld, is that common practice over there?

Cheers,
Vic.

[Poland308]

Depending on the job. There’s a few 3/4 inch butt welds. Because of the ease and speed of sockets usually 1- 1/2inch and under.

[Coldman]

Makes perfect sense to me I don’t know why we don’t do it here on ammonia work. Only time we see it is on assemblies out of the usa or on steam work. Getting harder to find the fittings too.


Sent using Tapatalk

[ROBERTINCREST]

Hello everybody,
Newbie here, Just starts learning TIG. Lots of great information on this forum, and videos. So I'd like to say thanks to all of you that contribute, and now its time for practice, practice, practice. here is some of mine.

[weldin mike 27]

Good solid start. Keep that tungsten sharp and the arc short. No more than the thickness of the electrode

[bruce991]

Aluminum skid plate for the BMW

Finished and ready to the final buff.jpg (46.48 KiB) Viewed 4662 times

I made this a few weeks ago out of aluminum 5056 3/16 thick and it has served me well to protect the underside of the adventure bike.

[LtBadd]

Looks good Bruce, snap a pic when its installed

[cj737]

Finished and ready to the final buff.jpg

I made this a few weeks ago out of aluminum 5056 3/16 thick and it has served me well to protect the underside of the adventure bike.

Plans for any drain holes? Or punched holes to strengthen it?

[bruce991]

No drain holes but I did add four 1 3/4 holes on each of the sides for air flow. It has easy to remove countersunk fasteners for getting off for oil changes.

[bruce991]

Installed and ready to rock

[bruce991]

Added ventilation holes

[tungstendipper]

Those holes made it look like it was commercially made! Good job.

[cj737]

Added ventilation holes

You did a nice job constructing that.

I'm giggling a bit, exhaust systems don't need "ventilation" holes. In fact, the more protected they are from cooling air flow, the better they work. When you look at the manufactured systems of these skid plates, the holes are punched for strength, not ventilation. Because ally is pretty weak, having those punched holes increases it strength tremendously. And you do get some debris/moisture draining advantages, especially on an Adventure bike.

Exhausts that remain protected from cooling forces scavenge the exhaust gases better, and increase the gas flow rate. This is advantageous primarily along the header and until it passes the CAT, where most condensation starts, and rot attacks. Remember that hot air moves toward cold surfaces. So the gas internally is drawn to the perimeter of the pipe, then loses its energy (heat) as it is cooled, slowing down the flow and lessening the scavenging of the gases. You'll see folks wrap exhausts in pipe wrap which as an insulator is a good idea, except that this wrap (on bikes) is a terrible idea as the carbon steel pipes below rot prematurely due to moisture being trapped against the pipe. A ceramic coating inside is the best treatment, and outside for ambient temperature (your body's proximity) comfort. If the exhaust is stainless, the rot is less an issue, but the internal treatment still is a major advantage from effectiveness of scavenging.

(This was entirely for informational purposes, not criticism, so please accept it as such.)

[tweake]

Added ventilation holes

You did a nice job constructing that.

I'm giggling a bit, exhaust systems don't need "ventilation" holes. In fact, the more protected they are from cooling air flow, the better they work. ............... You'll see folks wrap exhausts in pipe wrap which as an insulator is a good idea, except that this wrap (on bikes) is a terrible idea as the carbon steel pipes below rot prematurely due to moisture being trapped against the pipe. A ceramic coating inside is the best treatment, ........

not quite right.
its not rust that kills wrapped headers/pipes. its overheating the metal that does it. with the insulation on the outside the metal can't cool, it overheats and degrades.
however ceramic coating on the inside works great because the insulation is on the inside which keeps the pipes cool.

a bash plate doesn't need vent holes. theres tons of air flow around to keep the pipe cool. most cars have heat shields on exhaust parts (ie manifolds) and they generally have no vent holes.

not sure about cutting holes to add strength. you can get strength from holes if the edge is bent in. often use a die to press it in.

[cj737]

Added ventilation holes

a bash plate doesn't need vent holes. theres tons of air flow around to keep the pipe cool. most cars have heat shields on exhaust parts (ie manifolds) and they generally have no vent holes.

not sure about cutting holes to add strength. you can get strength from holes if the edge is bent in. often use a die to press it in.

Hey Tweake, I didn't advise cutting holes I suggested punching holes as cut holes don't increase the strength where punching can. And we agree on the lack of venting, but I suggested drain holes in the bottom/punched holes serving the same purpose. An Adventure bike is prone to wet and dirty rides, and a flat tray beneath the motor is a strong candidate for collecting riding schmootz that needs to be evacuated.

Just in case we are unclear with each other-

[zank]

Getting back on the picture train.


Dave H Ti by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr


Dave H Ti by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr


Dave H Ti by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr


Dave H Ti by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr


Dave H Ti by Mike Zanconato, on Flickr

[zank]

sorry. duplicate post.