Good Afternoon,
I have been practicing vertical TIG on some 1/2" plate. I beveled them, had a successful root pass, and started filling it in. When I got close to the cap, I couldn't prevent the undercut seen below. Should I be using larger filler wire?
1/2" plate
1/8 filler wire
135 amps
#8 cup
3/32 tungsten
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
Hi Ant,
Two things.
Looks to me like you’re running a little cold. Go up 10 amps.
Secondly, tig undercut is mostly actually underfill. Hold the edges a little longer and give it a little more wire. I
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Two things.
Looks to me like you’re running a little cold. Go up 10 amps.
Secondly, tig undercut is mostly actually underfill. Hold the edges a little longer and give it a little more wire. I
Sent using Tapatalk
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
Thanks for the reply. I was holding the edges, it wasn't filling in. I was using the laywire technique. There was no wait time in between passes though. I went one after the other. I am teaching myself through Joey's videos, so I don't have anyone telling me what I'm doing wrong. That's why this forum is so great! I appreciate your feedback. How long should I be waiting in between passes?
ant428
Interpass temperature is also an important parameter for which maximum values are specified in the WPS. Generally
For Carbon & Chrome-moly steels - 300 to 350 degC max
For Stainless Steel - 175 degC max
For Nickel ALloys - 150degC max
For superaustenitic steels - 98degC max
hope this is helpful
craig
Interpass temperature is also an important parameter for which maximum values are specified in the WPS. Generally
For Carbon & Chrome-moly steels - 300 to 350 degC max
For Stainless Steel - 175 degC max
For Nickel ALloys - 150degC max
For superaustenitic steels - 98degC max
hope this is helpful
craig
htp invertig 221
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
syncrowave 250
miller 140 mig
hypertherm plasma
morse 14 metal devil
Temp sticks are more reliable than a laser or ir temp gun. Unless you buy one of those high end Fluke thermal imaging cameras. We have one of those at work, but temp sticks are lots cheaper.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
I just ordered a $10 temp gun on amazon. I figure it just needs to be close and not too accurate. I did another pass with the metal cooled off and it was better. What amperage would you suggest? I feel like 135 was pretty good.
Farmwelding
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I know I have a cheap one I got for free from my uncle that I use for plate tests. Like I just did my vertical v-groove butt joint on 3/8" plate and didn't light an arc in the cover pass until it was 200-250 degrees.Ant428 wrote:I just ordered a $10 temp gun on amazon. I figure it just needs to be close and not too accurate. I did another pass with the metal cooled off and it was better. What amperage would you suggest? I feel like 135 was pretty good.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Just wanted to add an update. I increased the amperage to 165 and the puddle was much more fluent. Also waited till the metal cooled to 300 between passes. I have no undercut and a much better weld . Thank you everyone for your help!
CameronRobertson
- CameronRobertson
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Thanks for putting up all this trouble shooting tips here. I'm going to keep some of that information in storage and make sure that I keep the limits memorised or something for the next time I’m looking for a solution for my vertical work. Would anyone be able t recommend a good video that I could look at for technique in the meantime?
Cameron Robertson, manager at:
https://supercheapselfstorage.com.au/fa ... th-shore/
https://supercheapselfstorage.com.au/fa ... th-shore/
Jody’s YouTube channel is literally filled with a hundred well made, helpful, insightful videos for all processes, all positions. YouTube channel is “weldingtipsandtricks” coincidentallyCameronRobertson wrote:Thanks for putting up all this trouble shooting tips here. I'm going to keep some of that information in storage and make sure that I keep the limits memorised or something for the next time I’m looking for a solution for my vertical work. Would anyone be able t recommend a good video that I could look at for technique in the meantime?
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@Ant428 - up your Tungsten to 1/8” for starters. 135A for 1/2” Ally, irrespective of welding position amd joint preparation, is cold/cold.
You’ll need a baseline amperage of 280+A to fuse this joint, IMPO. Use 1/8” 4043/5356/4943 filler. A 280A rig with H25 (75Ar/25He) may have the boost to inject adequate root fusion.
Prove to yourself that the 165A yielded a solid joint, sans discontinuities/LOF, by excising the welded joint and macro etching with EasyOff oven cleaner (ie. ethanol + sodium hydroxide) and mensurating the cross-section.
You’ll need a baseline amperage of 280+A to fuse this joint, IMPO. Use 1/8” 4043/5356/4943 filler. A 280A rig with H25 (75Ar/25He) may have the boost to inject adequate root fusion.
Prove to yourself that the 165A yielded a solid joint, sans discontinuities/LOF, by excising the welded joint and macro etching with EasyOff oven cleaner (ie. ethanol + sodium hydroxide) and mensurating the cross-section.
Purpose, then passion. Practitionership. Obsession and hard work. That's the discipline.
135a is low, but 165a on carbon steel that has been beveled and filled with multiple passes would be more than adequate. Certainly wouldn’t be sufficient for a single pass. But this is vertical up, beveled, filler passes. A 3/32 tungsten will Weld all day long at these amps too. A 1/8 will certainly work, but it’s not truly required for these amperage ranges.Arclight Ironworks wrote:@Ant428 - up your Tungsten to 1/8” for starters. 135A for 1/2” Ally, irrespective of welding position amd joint preparation, is cold/cold.
You’ll need a baseline amperage of 280+A to fuse this joint, IMPO. Use 1/8” 4043/5356/4943 filler. A 280A rig with H25 (75Ar/25He) may have the boost to inject adequate root fusion.
Prove to yourself that the 165A yielded a solid joint, sans discontinuities/LOF, by excising the welded joint and macro etching with EasyOff oven cleaner (ie. ethanol + sodium hydroxide) and mensurating the cross-section.
280 amps? No way. This is a multiple pass weld. The root was a feathered edge with gap. As long as your burning those edges, your good. Hot pass and filler can be hotter, it I'm never at the 200 amp range. 165 would be a good setting. I'm just filling a gap and fusing the sides.Arclight Ironworks wrote:@Ant428 - up your Tungsten to 1/8” for starters. 135A for 1/2” Ally, irrespective of welding position amd joint preparation, is cold/cold.
You’ll need a baseline amperage of 280+A to fuse this joint, IMPO. Use 1/8” 4043/5356/4943 filler. A 280A rig with H25 (75Ar/25He) may have the boost to inject adequate root fusion.
Prove to yourself that the 165A yielded a solid joint, sans discontinuities/LOF, by excising the welded joint and macro etching with EasyOff oven cleaner (ie. ethanol + sodium hydroxide) and mensurating the cross-section.
- Arclight Ironworks
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Workhorse
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Joined:Tue Apr 11, 2017 10:31 pm
@Ant428 - material error, on my part. Wrongly assumed you were talking about welding 1/2” thick ALUMINUM vice carbon steel. In context for steel, my amperage numbers are way hot/hot. Sorry for the confusion.
Purpose, then passion. Practitionership. Obsession and hard work. That's the discipline.
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