Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
andrewhf01
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This is my first post (and rather an unusual one) here on Welding Tips and Tricks. Have to also say first, excellent web page, very informative instructional videos and forum.

I am constructing a porch on my house with a flat roof section, which I'm going to use coded lead sheet to cover this part of the roof. Before I started to experiment, using TIG to weld the lead sheet for myself I thought I would ask first, has anybody any experience of using TIG to weld lead, AKA lead burning to join lead sheet?
With lead being non-ferrous and a post-transition metal group 14, along with tin (aluminium is post-transition metal group 13), would the settings be similar to welding aluminium i.e. AC settings for cleaning action to remove the oxide layer and pure argon backing gas?

Many thanks in advance, Andrew
Poland308
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I think lead melts around 450F. Pretty sure tig arc will vaporize it causing air born lead fumes. NOT GOOD!
I have more questions than answers

Josh
BillE.Dee
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NOT sure on this one but back in the day when rain gutters were tin they used to solder the joints with a hot iron and just kind of melt things together. It would probably be more like tig brazing. The hot iron was heated with hot pot type of heater and the iron was laid into the flame. Kind of like branding cattle. I don't know how low you can go with a tig torch ... just be careful with the fumes.
Demented
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A small gas torch would be best. Something similar to yhe Midget torch or Smith's Micro Torch. TIG welding the lead will be too much of a headache, though it can be done. DC or AC will work but it will be extremely dirty and will melt to nothing in the blink of an eye.
"Your welds should sound like bacon. If your welds smell like bacon, you're on fire." - Uncle Bumblefuck (AvE)
Bladevane
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Soldering is the answer. It's been done for donkeys years that way. A large electrically or flame heated soldering iron with a large copper head. Clean the head, flux the joint, heat the soldering iron and away you go. The lead will puddle at its melting point and you can add filler material to form a perfect joint. Might be worthwhile practising on some scrap before you commit to the roof.
Artie F. Emm
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    Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:53 am

Welcome to the forums. I'd suggest joining the lead sheets however they are *typically* joined, and according to local codes if they apply. That way whoever is the next guy up on the roof- possibly a contractor, possibly not you- will be able to figure it out, and will be able to use his equipment on the job.
Dave
aka "RTFM"
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