Let me ask a few questions, forgive me if they seem "pedestrian":
Where are your eyes in relation to the work? I ask this because, even with a torch switch, you should be able to run full amps (less than 60) and weld that tubing without an immediate blow through if your arc length is correct. The moment you see the surface get "wet",
dip the filler and travel the necessary distance for the puddle size you need. If you can't see the puddle clearly and unobstructed, you're probably over-heating the metal.
With a 1/16 tungsten and 1/16 filler rod, you should have no problems whatsoever getting a soft arc, enough filler, and moving along. This leads me back to torch position issues...
What angle are you holding the torch to the work? If the torch is laid back too far, you are "casting" the arc and limiting your shielding. This also causes 2 common problems: dipping the tungsten, and too long an arc. The ideal angle is very close to 90* vertically, with perhaps a 5-10* rearward lean. This puts the tungsten in a "push" angle. It also opens the view to your eyes so you can see the tip of the tungsten, the puddle, and where the heck you want to weld.
Very helpful techniques are to comfortably, and fully support your torch hand on a work piece or table or prop. Gently hold the torch so your arm is relaxed, and move your forearm, not your wrist to advance the torch. You want to slide your arm/hand along to maintain the initial position of the torch for as far as is practical. This should also help eliminate the tungsten dipping.
Lastly...
Filler rod techniques. Once you initiate the arc, don't wait too long to add filler. With a torch switch and no variable amperage, light up, and get the rod in there. Let the first "dip" be large to help prevent blow-out and use it to initiate the puddle travel. You are creating a bit of buffer or borrow pile of filler. A fat dab of filler, melt it halfway and advance the torch. The puddle comes with your torch, then drop more filler on the leading edge of the puddle, advance the torch. Rinse and repeat.
Heat soaked material. With thin material (and 1/16th is thin-ish) you can't weld very far unless you are modulating the heat with a pedal or pouring filler in to cool the puddle. The latter of these requires experience, so for now, focus on short runs. Light up, dab, travel and dab only 1-2" and stop. Quench the part. Repeat. If you do not allow that material to cool regularly, it will absorb so much heat that after 3-4" you could probably weld at 25-30 amps maximum. That is hard to do with a torch switch. So you need to learn patience and distance with thin material.
Finally, sitckout length. For now, pull the tungsten closer to the end of the cup. This will help protect the tungsten and let you see/focus only on the puddle. It should be
just wide enough as you add filler. You can help yourself by scribing parallel lines on your material to help train you how wide to make you puddle and how much filler/travel distance is needed to get and keep that puddle width. For 1/16th filler, 3/32" is as wide as I'd go for a puddle width. Rule of thumb is 1.5x rod diameter.
If all else fails, take lots more pictures of your torch setup, torch position and distance, and practice results. TIG ain't easy to learn, but it can be learned. Its a trained skill and learning from the internet is harder still
But you WILL conquer this with enough practice and patience.
!