Good Afternoon, (or morning)
I am making an awning frame out of 1 1/2" aluminum square tubing 1/8" wall. When I make the butt joints, the metal flows fine and shiny , but when I do the tee joint, or fillet weld, I cannot get the metal to flow. In fact, I can't get a proper puddle going!. Any ideas? Its like I can't break through the barrier or oxidation layer???
Specs
140 amps AC
70%en
120 freq
#7 gas lens with 3/32 tungsten
3/32 filler rod
25CFH Argon 100%
Tig welding tips, questions, equipment, applications, instructions, techniques, tig welding machines, troubleshooting tig welding process
- MinnesotaDave
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Weldmonger
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Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
More amps, don't be timid - aluminum loves amps.
Make sure stickout is far enough to get a good tight arc to get puddle started.
Get on the power quickly, timid will cause you problems.
Make sure stickout is far enough to get a good tight arc to get puddle started.
Get on the power quickly, timid will cause you problems.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
I'm full throttle right away, and a tight arc. I'm right in there.MinnesotaDave wrote:More amps, don't be timid - aluminum loves amps.
Make sure stickout is far enough to get a good tight arc to get puddle started.
Get on the power quickly, timid will cause you problems.
I'm wondering if I didn't clean it properly.
But the charts call for 130-150 for 1/8 wall. Why so high?cj737 wrote:How high are your amps? For what you’re describing, I’d be above 170 to get my puddle, and filling it with 1/8” rod.
Edit: Sorry, didn’t see your settings. So, crank up your amps.
What would be your cleaning process for tubing?
- MinnesotaDave
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Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
Like I said, more amps.Ant428 wrote:I'm full throttle right away, and a tight arc. I'm right in there.MinnesotaDave wrote:More amps, don't be timid - aluminum loves amps.
Make sure stickout is far enough to get a good tight arc to get puddle started.
Get on the power quickly, timid will cause you problems.
I'm wondering if I didn't clean it properly.
No matter what charts say, if it doesn't make a clear shiny puddle in 3 seconds or less at full pedal, increase amps. Back off as needed while you weld.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Charts are typically based upon flat welds, not joints and fillets and vertical needs. Cleaning for me depends upon material condition and requirement. Sometimes, I don’t even clean the material but just adjust my Balance and crank on it.Ant428 wrote:But the charts call for 130-150 for 1/8 wall. Why so high?cj737 wrote:How high are your amps? For what you’re describing, I’d be above 170 to get my puddle, and filling it with 1/8” rod.
Edit: Sorry, didn’t see your settings. So, crank up your amps.
What would be your cleaning process for tubing?
I’ve never encountered the material cleanliness being the cause of not getting a puddle except for rust and poor ground connections. Rust is obviously not an issue with ally. Crank the byatch up and get your arc length right. It will weld.
- MinnesotaDave
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Joined:Sun Oct 27, 2013 10:57 pm
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
Yep, what he said ^^^cj737 wrote: Charts are typically based upon flat welds, not joints and fillets and vertical needs. Cleaning for me depends upon material condition and requirement. Sometimes, I don’t even clean the material but just adjust my Balance and crank on it.
I’ve never encountered the material cleanliness being the cause of not getting a puddle except for rust and poor ground connections. Rust is obviously not an issue with ally. Crank the byatch up and get your arc length right. It will weld.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
- Metal_pig2001
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Active Member
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Joined:Sat Aug 16, 2014 3:21 am
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Location:Rotorua, New Zealand
You may well be getting a different gas coverage when you are doing the other joint types.
Can you organise some “dams” from aluminum foil to help contsin the argon?
What are you “aiming” the arc at?
Regards
Ralph
Can you organise some “dams” from aluminum foil to help contsin the argon?
What are you “aiming” the arc at?
Regards
Ralph
The max amps setting on the machine I use is 403-amps. That is where my machine stays when I weld aluminum regardless of thickness. My advice is to believe what you see in the puddle and dont worry about amp charts. You have the peddle to control the amps.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
I aim the arch right into the joint , where the two pieces meet. Maybe a little bit more on the bottom piece.Metal_pig2001 wrote:You may well be getting a different gas coverage when you are doing the other joint types.
Can you organise some “dams” from aluminum foil to help contsin the argon?
What are you “aiming” the arc at?
Regards
Ralph
I agree, but I was concerned that I was doing something wrong because I feel like 150 amps should be enough for a fillet weld on 1/8. HOWEVER....it was square tuning mitered, so the wall at the mitere is more than 1/8 at the joint. That could be why more amps are required.motox wrote:Warren
couldn't agree more. turn it up and learn to read the puddle, thats
why you have a foot pedal.
craig
- MinnesotaDave
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Location:Big Lake/Monticello MN, U.S.A.
You were doing something wrong...not enough amps.Ant428 wrote:I agree, but I was concerned that I was doing something wrong because I feel like 150 amps should be enough for a fillet weld on 1/8. HOWEVER....it was square tuning mitered, so the wall at the mitere is more than 1/8 at the joint. That could be why more amps are required.motox wrote:Warren
couldn't agree more. turn it up and learn to read the puddle, thats
why you have a foot pedal.
craig
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Lol. Tú chéMinnesotaDave wrote:You were doing something wrong...not enough amps.Ant428 wrote:I agree, but I was concerned that I was doing something wrong because I feel like 150 amps should be enough for a fillet weld on 1/8. HOWEVER....it was square tuning mitered, so the wall at the mitere is more than 1/8 at the joint. That could be why more amps are required.motox wrote:Warren
couldn't agree more. turn it up and learn to read the puddle, thats
why you have a foot pedal.
craig
Ant428 wrote:Ant428 wrote:I agree, but I was concerned that I was doing something wrong because I feel like 150 amps should be enough for a fillet weld on 1/8. HOWEVER....it was square tuning mitered, so the wall at the mitere is more than 1/8 at the joint. That could be why more amps are required.motox wrote:Warren
couldn't agree more. turn it up and learn to read the puddle, thats
why you have a foot pedal.
craig
Turn your machine up to 180 amps, smash the pedal, get your puddle, and then taper off as needed. Setting your machine at your suspected max amps deprives of you of the ability to add or subtract heat as you go. This limits your ability to adapt while welding.
The only time I set a max and use full pedal is with pulse set on DC TIG. For ally, I always set it 20-25% higher than I know I'll need, so I use less pedal and can finesse the weld as required.
Now mash the darn thing already you Chicken Little!
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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Location:Pennsylvania (Northeast corner)
I am building a bench rest out of aluminum tubing (3x3x1/8). Sometimes I can get the puddle going and sometimes I can't. IF I move to a center area of the tubing, I can weld like a pro...I get to 2 tubes together and it looks like the pro left dodge and took a crash course in demolition. I grab a practice piece (thicker) and have at it with decent results. Also, when I get the heat up (must be too much) I can't get the filler rod to the puddle - it melts before I get there. Suggestions are definitely welcomed.
Possibly, your tungsten is too far away from the surface when welding into a fillet. Often you need to extend farther, or, reduce the cup size to allow you to tuck in tighter. Filler melting back before getting to the puddle screams "long arc". The farther you are away from the puddle with the cup, the wider the heat zone, the greater the likelihood of melting your filler.BillE.Dee wrote:I am building a bench rest out of aluminum tubing (3x3x1/8). Sometimes I can get the puddle going and sometimes I can't. IF I move to a center area of the tubing, I can weld like a pro...I get to 2 tubes together and it looks like the pro left dodge and took a crash course in demolition. I grab a practice piece (thicker) and have at it with decent results. Also, when I get the heat up (must be too much) I can't get the filler rod to the puddle - it melts before I get there. Suggestions are definitely welcomed.
I do notice I cant get a proper puddle if I dont clean the material properly.BillE.Dee wrote:I am building a bench rest out of aluminum tubing (3x3x1/8). Sometimes I can get the puddle going and sometimes I can't. IF I move to a center area of the tubing, I can weld like a pro...I get to 2 tubes together and it looks like the pro left dodge and took a crash course in demolition. I grab a practice piece (thicker) and have at it with decent results. Also, when I get the heat up (must be too much) I can't get the filler rod to the puddle - it melts before I get there. Suggestions are definitely welcomed.
Do make sure your using enough amps and a tight arc. AL can be tough.
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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Joined:Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:53 pm
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Location:Pennsylvania (Northeast corner)
I for sure notice that if I forget to clean, clean, clean .. I get terrible bird art. I get bird art anyway. Not sure when to use bigger cups or more gas...usually at 17-20cfh...and a #7 cup...
BillE.Dee
- BillE.Dee
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I have welded steel, not a LOT but can get it done. This aluminum thing is just winding me up a little bit. I'll get a decent weld, have one of the kids call me or come talk to me and when I get back at it ... bird art or if I move to a different area of the project ... bird art, til I get running. Who the hell changes the environment when I'm not looking anyway ???
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