I gave stainless steel a shot yesterday, and how humbling an experience. I need some pointers folks. I primarily TIG aluminum and have become somewhat proficient for a beginner, but I have a lot to learn about stainless. I typically use the Miller WeldSettings app as a baseline before I get started. I have a Syncrowave 250DX, 60-65 amps, 1/16” plate, 1/16” 308L, 3/32” tungsten at 25 degrees, #8 Pyrex cup and gas lens at 15cfh. This was the result...
I would have assumed I was getting decent gas coverage at least on top. By the end of a 4-5” run the plate is glowing and warped like a Pringle. I thought I could just run bead after bead and have something to show for it like my AL practice coupons. I can initiate a puddle and travel within a couple of seconds but my filler sticks a little on the dab and it almost appears as if I’m not adding filler. Thoughts? Suggestions?
1/16" sheet is very thin to use for practice, that's why your getting dark welds, and a lot of warpage. If you can clamp the sheet onto an aluminum plate (as a heat sink) that would help.
LtBadd wrote:1/16" sheet is very thin to use for practice, that's why your getting dark welds, and a lot of warpage. If you can clamp the sheet onto an aluminum plate (as a heat sink) that would help.
Good to know. Is that why I’m getting the concave beads void of filler? I’ll grab some 1/4” coupons and try to lap joints. I was pretty concerned with the weld had almost no profile to it and zero shine
1/4" is pretty heavy for practice, not to mention expensive. Grab some 11 ga sheet, and some 1/8-3/16" flat stock.
Stainless consumes heat and doesn't let go. It warps like a byatch too. Running stringer beads is pretty hard to control heat input on thin stainless sheet. You really need to let it cool, or quench it and keep it clamped to some thick aluminum while welding.
cj737 wrote:1/4" is pretty heavy for practice, not to mention expensive. Grab some 11 ga sheet, and some 1/8-3/16" flat stock.
Stainless consumes heat and doesn't let go. It warps like a byatch too. Running stringer beads is pretty hard to control heat input on thin stainless sheet. You really need to let it cool, or quench it and keep it clamped to some thick aluminum while welding.
that looks like its really hot.
but its not so much about amps but rather your travel speed. travel speed is what puts heat into a part.
i think your going way to slow.
with stainless its get it to puddle then go go go. it can be a challenge to keep up with it.
tweake wrote:that looks like its really hot.
but its not so much about amps but rather your travel speed. travel speed is what puts heat into a part.
i think your going way to slow.
with stainless its get it to puddle then go go go. it can be a challenge to keep up with it.
I bet it was slower than I’m use to with aluminum. I can go faster, I was just focusing so much on the lack of a bead profile. Probably just the thin material like the previous guy said. I’ll speed it up tomorrow and update
songer121 wrote:Move faster and turn ur argon up to 20 cfh. Also i personally like using a #12 cup or bigger on ss.
I turned the gas up to 20-22 and the color/shine improved some. Added an aluminum heat sink underneath. Still need some more coverage so I ordered a Fupa 12.
tweake wrote:that looks like its really hot.
but its not so much about amps but rather your travel speed. travel speed is what puts heat into a part.
i think your going way to slow.
with stainless its get it to puddle then go go go. it can be a challenge to keep up with it.
Made some adjustments. Nothing to write home about but I feel like it’s a step in the right direction. Looks pretty hot still.
This was at 65 amps. I’m having an issue with moving the puddle along and my filler is still sticking on the dip.
These two were at 90 amps. Puddle flowed a little easier and I was able to speed up some more, just need that consistent motion and uniformity.
tweake wrote:that looks like its really hot.
but its not so much about amps but rather your travel speed. travel speed is what puts heat into a part.
i think your going way to slow.
with stainless its get it to puddle then go go go. it can be a challenge to keep up with it.
Made some adjustments. Nothing to write home about but I feel like it’s a step in the right direction. Looks pretty hot still.
This was at 65 amps. I’m having an issue with moving the puddle along and my filler is still sticking on the dip.
These two were at 90 amps. Puddle flowed a little easier and I was able to speed up some more, just need that consistent motion and uniformity.
it doesn't help you using one size filler to large. which is why it sticks a bit. you want to use a size smaller than what you use for steel.
you will need higher amps if you have it on a chill block like that.
you don't really need a huge big gas cup.
the trick is to run enough heat that it puddles quick, and then move fast. there is video's on it.
i'm sure jody has some some. but heres a recent one. https://youtu.be/z86cWH6ZFTA
tweake wrote:that looks like its really hot.
but its not so much about amps but rather your travel speed. travel speed is what puts heat into a part.
i think your going way to slow.
with stainless its get it to puddle then go go go. it can be a challenge to keep up with it.
Made some adjustments. Nothing to write home about but I feel like it’s a step in the right direction. Looks pretty hot still.
This was at 65 amps. I’m having an issue with moving the puddle along and my filler is still sticking on the dip.
These two were at 90 amps. Puddle flowed a little easier and I was able to speed up some more, just need that consistent motion and uniformity.
it doesn't help you using one size filler to large. which is why it sticks a bit. you want to use a size smaller than what you use for steel.
you will need higher amps if you have it on a chill block like that.
you don't really need a huge big gas cup.
the trick is to run enough heat that it puddles quick, and then move fast. there is video's on it.
i'm sure jody has some some. but heres a recent one. https://youtu.be/z86cWH6ZFTA
