[Breezer28]

Hello Everyone!

I have just bought a new German Welding 200amp inverter machine (which is in the mail somewhere across Europe).
https://www.stahlwerk-schweissgeraete.d ... param=1001
I bought this same version but without the Plasma function but got upgraded to the Plasma included version for free because they ran out of stock.

It's not top of the line nor anything like it but it will work for me perfectly for now...I hope!

Right now I'm shopping around for gas lenses!
I've already bought 2% Lanthanated tungstens in 0.40", 1-1/16", 3/32" (10packs) + 4pack of 1/8" and a foot pedal for the machine.
I only bought the 1/8th tungsten for welding on aluminium with Argon and a dab of Helium so it holds a little more heat..

This machine comes with a WP-26 style torch.

I would like your input on deciding if I should get the Jumbo gas lenses or the medium gas lenses.
I haven't seen any comparison of one versus the other anywhere here nor searching on google so I decided to ask for your help.

I would like to keep it to a small hardware inventory for now and increase it as time goes by...
I Def need to sort this out in the next couple of days to make sure I get the hardware by the time I get the machine..or close enough (shipping time "socks" over here)..

So, What do you guys think? Pros and Cons?


Thanks in advance!
Vando S.

[cj737]

I like the stubby type lenses for most welding, but the jumbos for welding pipe. A #8 cup is my go-to

[MarkL]

I like #8 cup and 3/32" tungsten for most everything. I'd start out with just a 3/32" lens, maybe try a few different brands to see what you like best before you buy all the different sizes. As an example, some lenses are 2 piece where the screen unscrews from the rest of the lens. I don't like those as well because the screen gets bent on the edges when I change it, and now I have 3 sizes of those lenses which I'll probably never use again. I've also found different brands seem to work better than others. You might also get a few long nose alumina cups, they're cheap and handy to get into tight places without having to increase the stickout.

[Breezer28]

For example..

I could get the 995795 3/32'' Large Diameter Gas Lens Collet Body and match it with a 57N74 1/2" Large #8 Alumina cup...
Or could it be a 45V26 3/32" (medium diameter) Gas Lens Collet Body and match it with a 54N14 1/2" #8 alumina cup...

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/digitide/tig67.jpg

Bottom row on the picture coming from the left has the Large diameter gas lens collet bodies followed by the medium diameter gas lens collet bodies and the normal collet bodies..

If you look at the alumina cups, they have the same sizes gas lenses but one type uses the large diameter collets and the other use the medium diameter collets..

What would you guys choose?
Would you stick with the medium gas lens collet body setups and maybe a couple of the large ones..Would that make more sense?
I buy my own Argon so, saving it up is kinda important...

I'll mostly work on Stainless, regular steel and on and off on aluminium..

[tungstendipper]

I have to agree with CJ; a #8 lens is the way to go. The clear glass lens, bought from Jody's website, will illuminate the weld and help you see better. At least for my old eyes. I use this for 90% of my welding.

[Graveyard]

I like to have a little bit of everything for odd jobs so I have a range of cups for gas lenses I use my 8 most oft e time and go up from there depending. If I were you I’d do the same, no sense in putting all your eggs in one basket. I too use the Furick cups and I am very happy with them but you cannot weld aluminum with them so far that I use the standard pink ceramic cups.

[cj737]

You can weld aluminum with Pyrex cups. You cant walk a Pyrex cup on aluminum because they will crack.

[Graveyard]

You can weld aluminum with Pyrex cups. You cant walk a Pyrex cup on aluminum because they will crack.

Let me rephrase, most Pyrex manufactuers recommend they not be used for aluminum. Can you yes, I have but I want mine to last so I use the standard ceramic for aluminum. To each their own.

[LtBadd]

The FUPA 12 cups I bought states on the box, not to exceed 175 amps and not recommended for aluminum.

[cj737]

You can weld aluminum with Pyrex cups. You cant walk a Pyrex cup on aluminum because they will crack.

Let me rephrase, most Pyrex manufactuers recommend they not be used for aluminum. Can you yes, I have but I want mine to last so I use the standard ceramic for aluminum. To each their own.

Interesting that you use Furick cups but shy away from using them on AC. Especially since all he does is use them, particularly on AC.

https://furickcup.com/product/8-pro-cup/

[Graveyard]

You can weld aluminum with Pyrex cups. You cant walk a Pyrex cup on aluminum because they will crack.

Let me rephrase, most Pyrex manufactuers recommend they not be used for aluminum. Can you yes, I have but I want mine to last so I use the standard ceramic for aluminum. To each their own.

Interesting that you use Furick cups but shy away from using them on AC. Especially since all he does is use them, particularly on AC.

https://furickcup.com/product/8-pro-cup/

The larger ones he doesn’t so I assumed the #8 cups fit the same description. I guess I was mistaken.

[cj737]

The larger ones he doesn’t so I assumed the #8 cups fit the same description. I guess I was mistaken.

That’s because there’s not really a needed application for a 12/16 cup with aluminum like there is for Ti or Stainless; which is the intended market for his Fupa, Moose and BBW.

Even so, you can use them for ally, but why would you? You just don’t need that kind of coverage.

[Breezer28]

I hear what you guys are saying!

I guess I will be needing both types of gas lenses after all, I just need be more selective so I don't have too many pieces to go through.
Right now I'll stick with the medium size gas lenses and just a couple of pieces of the jumbos to experiment on stainless steel..

Aluminium is most for me to start learning on it because I believe it will allow me to refine my technique.. and by "allow" I actually mean "force" me to because, well, Proficiency, right?
Titanium, I do see it a little bit more down the road but starting with the "basics" I believe aluminium might be good for it.

I will use my machine mostly on mild steel and stainless steel because that's what most people ever request it the most over here on the island..

I'm craving hours under the hood, It has been a long while since I've been able to really work on any type of welding..

Parts:
medium gas lenses collet bodies and collets 0.40", 1/16th, 3/32" and 1/8th
alumina cups 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 12
Pyrex cups 8, 10 and 12

Jumbo gas lenses collet bodies and collets 3/32" and 1/8"
alumina cups 6, 8, 10 and 12

What do you guys think?
Should I get a Jumbo gas lenses collet bodies and collets 1/16th while I'm at it as well?

[tungstendipper]

Put your money in 3/32 collets the rest you will only use 10% of the time. Maybe 1/8" if you have a bigger machine.

[cj737]

For ally welding I use a 5 or 8, 3/32” for most of it. 1/8” tungsten when thickness demands.

Learn on mild steel. Get your basics right. Then go to ally. Then to stainless. Stainless is VERY TRICKY and for steel, I use an 8 or a 12. You don’t need the smaller lenses and tungsten did you have a quality machine. Save your money and drawer space. Buy a tungsten sharpener and a purge kit instead.

[Graveyard]

For ally welding I use a 5 or 8, 3/32” for most of it. 1/8” tungsten when thickness demands.

Learn on mild steel. Get your basics right. Then go to ally. Then to stainless. Stainless is VERY TRICKY and for steel, I use an 8 or a 12. You don’t need the smaller lenses and tungsten did you have a quality machine. Save your money and drawer space. Buy a tungsten sharpener and a purge kit instead.

Very solid advice right here! Couldn’t agree more.

[Breezer28]

I agree with you! Fundamentals are very important to anyone first coming in to this line of work, I've been there!

I'm not an expert by any means. Carbon steels and stainless that's what I got my certifications on.
I went to school for it and got my 6G pipe (EN287-1 : 141+111) certification + a couple other ones..

Back to topic..
The smaller hardware is for those odd jobs with very very thin wall (sometimes under 1mm thickness) that 3/32"just wouldn't cut it.

You're giving me good ideas on where to start with my accessories hardware!
I like it!

Tungsten sharpener is on my bucket list!
Right now, I use attachment to a 4"angle grinder to sharpen along with one of those mini "pens" with a small chuck on it.
As for purging I mostly use aluminium tin foil and aluminium tape.. I also have a gas feeder from a gas stove like one of those on the barbecues with lots of tiny holes.



With this new welding machine that I bought, which it's still halfways across continental Europe, about 3 more weeks until it gets here!
Things take time to get here, it's not like I can drive to a welding supply store..there are none of those here on the island!
Argon bottle takes 1week minimum to ship it by boat and get a refill bottle!

Dream is to have my own welding business one day, (just far away from here, because I dream big) mostly towards non-industrial boat repair shops, custom stainless and alu jobs, motorcycle parts, etc etc..
I love fishing just as much as I love welding! Combine the two and I'm golden!

Just haven't had a decent opportunity that'll allow me to move on in to the welding business but I'm not loosing hope.
I need to step up my game so when that one opportunity comes up, I can grab it and hit the ground running!

Thanks guys!

[cj737]

Back to topic..
The smaller hardware is for those odd jobs with very very thin wall (sometimes under 1mm thickness) that 3/32"just wouldn't cut it.

I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt

Basically, if you can't use a 3/32" tungsten to weld very thin material, then you are doing something wrong Aaron (the guy who makes those videos) has others that you might find very instructive on getting the most from your new machine (in terms of settings, results, and tungsten prep to achieve super precise welds) and they are also very well produced. Next to Jody, Aaron is by far my most watched channel for his pure creativity and outstanding results.

[Breezer28]

I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt

Basically, if you can't use a 3/32" tungsten to weld very thin material, then you are doing something wrong Aaron (the guy who makes those videos) has others that you might find very instructive on getting the most from your new machine (in terms of settings, results, and tungsten prep to achieve super precise welds) and they are also very well produced. Next to Jody, Aaron is by far my most watched channel for his pure creativity and outstanding results.

It is possible.. There are tricks like the one I just saw from Jody do with a scratch start inverter where he flicked the filler wire to arch the tip of the tungsten with the work piece.. Blew my mind!

I've been following Jody, Mr Tig and I've actually seen that video you shared

But it could've also been a limitation of my own previous now deceased machine..that I am now replacing..
It was a scratch start only 130amp, no pulse, no preflow, no post flow, no upslope, no downslope, just a knob for setting the working amperage, gas flow directly from the bottle flowmeter and that thumbscrew valve on the torch.
Minimal amps it had 10A on the manual but I believe it was more like 15A on that machine


One example was a local machinist, Trying to build up the face off the edge of a machined down to just under 1mm thin bevel out of a 3.5inch stainless pipe + several hours of work on it..
I remember this one clearly because I warned him it would most likely not work, and sure enough, as soon as I lit it up I go to push a little 309 filler and blew a hole.
Ended up cutting that piece of bevel off, welded a pie and he had to machine it again.. which I told him in the first place it would probably have to be this way!

[Breezer28]

Hello everyone!

I have some questions...

What's your take on the Stubby gas lenses versus the normal sized gas lenses versus the large diameter gas lenses (aka Jumbo)?

Pro's and Con's?


Data:
-The stubby gas lenses use the WP-9 style Gas lens aluminas and 17GL collet bodies for use on the WP-26.
-The WP-26 Gas lenses use the 54N style aluminas with 45V24~45V29 collet bodies.
-The WP-26 Large gas lenses use the 57N and 53N aluminas with the 45V0204, 45V116, 45V64, 995795, 45V63 Large collet bodies.

I have purchased all the parts to make a stubby gas lens kit but it's still on route in the mail...

I'm also thinking of getting either a normal sized gas lens kit or a large diameter gas lens kit..

Just can't find information if there is an increased performance between the stubby kit and the normal sized gas lenses..
I've only found ceramic cups for those up to size #8 ceramics I believe..

What about the Large diameter gas lenses, are they worth the investement? Are they that much better than the medium and stubby gas lenses?
As for the ceramics on the Large, I can find sizes up to #15..

Sorry for all those hard questions!

[cj737]

A #26 is essentially a larger bodied #17 torch, rated for 250 Amps. If you're running that high of amps, you might re-consider a water cooled setup. You might...

I use a #5, a #8, and a #12 cup. The 8/12 I use the same 3/32 stubby lens from Miller. I only switch to a "jumbo" or long-nosed lens (still 3/32 and #8 cup) for TIG welding pipe of >4" OD. Easier for me to walk the cup around.

I'm a huge fan of the Furick Fupa cups, and use them in Clear (5, 8 and 12) for aluminum and stainless. I also recently grabbed his ceramic 12 and have been very pleased with it for DC welding where I want the coverage, AND want the contact.

You probably also want an 1/8" lens, but the Fupa cups won't fit a 1/8" lens setup, only 3/32. I've spent way more money on cups in every darn size than I'll ever use, only to find a "sweet spot" for me in these 3 cups. Sure, I've come across a situation where a long-nosed 4 would be perfect, but I work around those situations with a larger cup and longer stick out now.

[rick9345]

[quote="cj737"][quote="Breezer28"]

I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt

Well he is left handed! It makes a difference.

[cj737]

I'd encourage you to watch this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L1Ugdt ... fz6Oat17Jt

Well he is left handed! It makes a difference.

i have seen it and absolutely agree, but the only reason I don’t switch to a 1/8” only is my Fupa cups won’t work with anything but 3/32 lenses. And since the OP is bouncing around for a range of setups, I steered to 3/32 and 1/8.

['Stang]

The larger ones he doesn’t so I assumed the #8 cups fit the same description. I guess I was mistaken.

That’s because there’s not really a needed application for a 12/16 cup with aluminum like there is for Ti or Stainless; which is the intended market for his Fupa, Moose and BBW.

Even so, you can use them for ally, but why would you? You just don’t need that kind of coverage.

The #8 cups are just a gas lense with a Pyrex type cup. If you look at the #12 in Jody's store-he warns that the diffuser can arc out on the #12. That is why you shouldn't use them on AC. Them #8 doesn't have a diffuser.

[Breezer28]

Hello everyone!

I bought all the parts that I wanted.. (some I will most likely never use but if I need them, I'll have them and won't have to wait weeks to get them in the mail)


On a side note:

Well, I've been having a go at it!
Recently I switched argon suppliers and I've been having some issues specially because apparently my argon regulator wasn't regulating sh*t and I couldn't figure out what was happening as in before, the reducers were built-in with the valve on the Ar cylinders..

I was stuck for a while because when I switched the suppliers, the only argon regulators that I had, since they were bought over in the States (CGA-320 and CGA-580) , they are not compatible with the ones sold here in the EU (DIN 477 or W21.8 x 1/14) ..

I managed to find a local "supplier" of beer draft machines and they let me borrow an old CO2 regulator off of them at least until I get my new regulator in the mail..
But, I got lots and lots of contamination on my weld beads (I shouldn't even say they were weld beads because it was just sh*te)..

Funny thing tho.. I unscrewed the end of off my own CGA-580 regulator and removed the threaded bushing (male threads).
I then did the same to the regulator that I borrowed that has the DIN 477 plug (it's a female Nut).
I tried using the shaft and female nut off of the DIN 477 regulator but the the threads are different and couldn't screw it on to my regulator port...

I then tried to use just the DIN477 female nut on the shaft that came on my CGA-580 regulator and voilà.. NO LEAKS!
Still, I kept trying to adjust the output flow on pressure reducer but it just wouldn't let me adjust to a decent working CFH...and still had lots of porosity..

Ended up having to put a valve on the line that feeds the argon to the machine so I could adjust it just enough so I could make a decent looking weld with no porosity!

Until I get the new reducer in the mail, I can't do any decent work.. and that is gonna take well over one week to get here!