Donniev wrote:We didn't figure for any distortion in the pipe, it's there but not a concern. I bet if we Lasered the flanges the middle one would be 1/4" or so lower than the end ones... distortion isnt something that's typically thought about on the bigger stuff, especially here since install is going to be flange/ butterfly/ flange...bolts will pull it back no problem.
How do you start a project like that ?
Do you start from the center and use that as a reference to maintain the horizontal tolerance across the flange faces ?
Or do your comments above apply ?
I've been welding the 68 4" flanges. Weld it up, measure 7" from center of weld make a mark. 2 hole the flange, mark top dead center at my 7" mark and then we have a plastic template to mark the saddle cut, instead of a pipe wrap.
To weld them onto the 12" piece we turn the 12" on its side to 2 hole the first 4" flange...then turn it so the holes are facing up, and keep the 2 hole pins in the first flange that's now tacked. To get all the others we put 2 hole pins in the next flange to be tacked and use a 2' level laying flat on the faces of the flanges, the first one tacked and good to go, and we use the level sitting on the face of the flanges get the rest. Just push the 2 hole pins on the flanges tight to the level, now your 2 holed. Sorry for the book, not sure how to better describe it. And really with 2 holing, even if we get a tiny bit off it's ok, you got some play with the bolts, just can't be too far off.
We roll it over after they're all tacked and check 1 or 2 flanges quick to make sure we're good...haven't cut any tacks yet...o and we start at one end or the other
I've been welding the 68 4" flanges........................................
We roll it over after they're all tacked and check 1 or 2 flanges quick to make sure we're good...haven't cut any tacks yet...o and we start at one end or the other[/quote]
Donniev wrote:
I've been welding the 68 4" flanges. Weld it up, measure 7" from center of weld make a mark. 2 hole the flange, mark top dead center at my 7" mark and then we have a plastic template to mark the saddle cut, instead of a pipe wrap.
To weld them onto the 12" piece we turn the 12" on its side to 2 hole the first 4" flange...then turn it so the holes are facing up, and keep the 2 hole pins in the first flange that's now tacked. To get all the others we put 2 hole pins in the next flange to be tacked and use a 2' level laying flat on the faces of the flanges, the first one tacked and good to go, and we use the level sitting on the face of the flanges get the rest. Just push the 2 hole pins on the flanges tight to the level, now your 2 holed. Sorry for the book, not sure how to better describe it. And really with 2 holing, even if we get a tiny bit off it's ok, you got some play with the bolts, just can't be too far off.
We roll it over after they're all tacked and check 1 or 2 flanges quick to make sure we're good...haven't cut any tacks yet...o and we start at one end or the other
Makes sense, nice looking pipe spool
Last shop I worked we had a T-Drill machine that would pull the tee in schedule 10 stainless.
Lt I don't have a ton of experience with ss, that stuff pull on you bad? I've welded sch 10 before, boss watched me like a hawk to make sure I wasn't going too slow when I was welding it
Donniev wrote:Lt I don't have a ton of experience with ss, that stuff pull on you bad? I've welded sch 10 before, boss watched me like a hawk to make sure I wasn't going too slow when I was welding it
Yes, it'll move easily. We use a level to make sure all the ports are true to each other.
Great news baby! Remember where you were a couple of years ago? Look how far you've come today by toughing it out, working hard, gaining experience and chasing your dream.
Congrats and well done.
Hi all,
I lasercut a few more of the stainless practice cubes and tried an el cheapo pyrex gas lens.
I'm not sure if the increased coverage gave me less discoloration or if I was welding colder (or faster...). I tried to not remove too much of the material when welding.
I also added a max current control on my foot pedal which made the range more controllable.
It was really nice to see some pretty colours in the welds instead of the dull grey I have been getting.
I have my original cube and the one I did most recently. I don't think my filler feeding consistency is any better yet.
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reflexsa wrote:Hi all,
I lasercut a few more of the stainless practice cubes and tried an el cheapo pyrex gas lens.
I'm not sure if the increased coverage gave me less discoloration or if I was welding colder (or faster...). I tried to not remove too much of the material when welding.
I also added a max current control on my foot pedal which made the range more controllable.
It was really nice to see some pretty colours in the welds instead of the dull grey I have been getting.
I have my original cube and the one I did most recently. I don't think my filler feeding consistency is any better yet.
Certainly looks better, does your machine have the ability to pulse? You could use a slow pulse setting to help time the addition of filler and give a more consistent looking bead
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Last weekend. Pressure vessel repairs. Didn’t include all the photos but ground out an old coupling and welded in a new one. Plus made a repair on another pin hole on the coupling on the left. With the pt test you can see the stress crack that developed on the edge of the HAZ. Had to grind that out full depth as well. Beveled the base metal and the coupling. Then had to add a fillet per code so that I didn’t have to back weld from the inside.
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reflexsa wrote:Hi all,
I lasercut a few more of the stainless practice cubes and tried an el cheapo pyrex gas lens.
I'm not sure if the increased coverage gave me less discoloration or if I was welding colder (or faster...). I tried to not remove too much of the material when welding.
I also added a max current control on my foot pedal which made the range more controllable.
It was really nice to see some pretty colours in the welds instead of the dull grey I have been getting.
I have my original cube and the one I did most recently. I don't think my filler feeding consistency is any better yet.
Certainly looks better, does your machine have the ability to pulse? You could use a slow pulse setting to help time the addition of filler and give a more consistent looking bead
Yes it does have pulse just haven't really had a chance to fiddle in detail with all the settings. My Argon and scrap supplies are running low at the moment haha.
I think it is almost time to construct something a bit more useful
Some roots and caps. Never got to cap the other two welds they said they might have to cut it apart. Gotta love engineers! Oh well just means more fun welding for me.
Occasionally I talk them into letting me MIG weld. Yes it's cold but on these rec boats they want them to have the stack of dimes.
The bung is thick 6061 welded into 1/2" 5052. It's at an angle so the top is inset 1/4" and the bottom sticks out 1/8". Kinda tricky with lots of pedal play.
Some more seat risers. The blueprints called out 1-1/2" overall but when I gave them to them they said it should have been 1-1/2" in the center. Engineers haha oh well I get paid by the hour.
Big change of pace from the car parts and small tig stuff I'm used to! First pic is a floor for a roll off box we over build for our recycle glass plants, and the second is a frame for one of the local mills. Third/fourth pics are of a lifting hook for the bucket in the fifth pic, minus the 10 foot 4"plate arms that come up the side. So far in the last two months here I've mig welded a shit load, and ran dual shield, as well as arc gouged, all for the first time in any serious capacity.
