Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi folks -

(First post here from a newbie...)

As I was practicing padding beads over the weekend on my Everlast 164si (tig/stick) machine, I was deep into a session with various stick electrodes. 3/32" 7014 (Blue Demon brand) 1/8" 7018 (Lincoln Excalibur) and some 3/32" Hobart 6011 I got at a local ranch/farm supply. The 7014 and 7018 ran very well - as a beginner I could get them lit, stay lit and as long as I was holding a tight enough arc, I was getting a decent (again for a beginner) bead. No problem running a full rod from start to finish if I was paying enough attention to what I was doing.

However, the Hobart 6011 rods would just be very reluctant to start and once started, were reluctant to stay lit. I tried high amperage, low amperage and everything in between. I tried varying arc length - from practically burying the electrode out to over a 1/4" away - but still it was a struggle to keep the rods lit.

Then I read here and elsewhere that Lincoln Fleetweld 180 6011 rods are specifically meant for small AC welders and those with lower open circuit voltage (OCV). That latter bit about OCV I interpreted as "most low/moderate price inverters". So, I found that Home Depot sells Fleetweld 180, and I bought a 5# box. Sure enough, these light up, stay lit and burn well (if very fast!). Also much more tolerant of arc length variation and amperage settings.

I knew my machine isn't supposed to run 6010, but I thought any 6011 rod would be fine. I guess not. If anybody else out there is struggling with 6011 rods on their inverter machines, give the Fleetweld 180 a try.

If you have a port for 6010 on that welder then make sure you plug into that port....it's for 6011 too.
I have never used hobart rods but it is my understanding that they are very low quality as no one really has anything good to say about them. Also it is my understanding that Lincoln 5P+ rods (6010) are the cream of the crop concerning 60 series rods. Never used those either. Buy quality and you will get quality results.

Well I wish I had found this post a few days ago! I've been fighting the same battle thinking it was me. I also got a box of hobart 6011 rods and been trying to run them on my powertig 250EX. When I finally get a bead going the rod starts on fire. So now I know that my machine can not run 6010 or 6011. Thanks guys.

First, welcome to the forum, NB.

Almost sounds like a bad batch of electrodes. 6011s are DCEP polarity. Ryan, were you set for EP?

nb, welcome to the forum.

Artie F. Emm wrote:First, welcome to the forum, NB.

Almost sounds like a bad batch of electrodes. 6011s are DCEP polarity. Ryan, were you set for EP?

I agree it might be a bad batch, but I could have sworn 6011 were specific more towards AC, not specifically for DCEP--that's what 6010s are for.

Artie F. Emm wrote:First, welcome to the forum, NB.

Almost sounds like a bad batch of electrodes. 6011s are DCEP polarity. Ryan, were you set for EP?

Yep.
When you run em backward they do catch fire.

RamboBaby wrote:If you have a port for 6010 on that welder then make sure you plug into that port....it's for 6011 too.
I have never used hobart rods but it is my understanding that they are very low quality as no one really has anything good to say about them. Also it is my understanding that Lincoln 5P+ rods (6010) are the cream of the crop concerning 60 series rods. Never used those either. Buy quality and you will get quality results.

I've had some fairly decent luck with Hobart 6011s. I've also never tried any others but they run quite well for me.

Oscar wrote: I could have sworn 6011 were specific more towards AC, not specifically for DCEP--that's what 6010s are for.

You're right, 6011 are similar to 6010 but 6011 will run on AC where 6010 will not. But I figured since Ryan is using an Everlast, DC only, he needs to set it to its DC polarity, EP. (I had to look the polarity up, i don't have it memorized.)

By my read of the electrode chart an AC machine should be able to run any electrode whose number does not end in 0 or 5.

I run some Lincoln 6011AC's every now and then, mostly because I just wanted to try them. I have a whole bunch of 5P+ and 6P+ that need to get used up.

Oscar wrote:I run some Lincoln 6011AC's every now and then, mostly because I just wanted to try them. I have a whole bunch of 5P+ and 6P+ that need to get used up.

What does the 5P+ and 6P+ designate?

rahtreelimbs wrote:

Oscar wrote:I run some Lincoln 6011AC's every now and then, mostly because I just wanted to try them. I have a whole bunch of 5P+ and 6P+ that need to get used up.

What does the 5P+ and 6P+ designate?

The only thing I know is that the P is designation for pipe-welding, meaning it has very good "fast freeze" properties for downhill. The "+" has something to do with the flux.

Lincoln calls their 6010 electrodes Fleetweld 5p, and Pipeliner 6p. Couldn't find an official explanation for the + sign.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/co ... eld5P-Plus

Slightly diferent metal composition.

I too am having this issue with cheaper 6011 rods(Chicago Electric1/8,3/32, and Inweld 1/8)
My Fleetweld 6013 run like a champ.

NoStrangeFireHere wrote:I too am having this issue with cheaper 6011 rods(Chicago Electric1/8,3/32, and Inweld 1/8)
My Fleetweld 6013 run like a champ.

Reminds me of the old saying, "Doc, it hurts when I do this.....". Doctor: "Well don't do that".

I tryed my 1/8 6011 rods on both my TA 186 and my Lincoln 210mp. It was ok but the TA runs 6010 a bit better. The Lincoln does not like 6010 but still does ok on 6011. I think each inverter will act different, like Oscar said if it hurts don't do it!

So I did get a hold of some 6011 Fleetweld 3/32 and 1/8..... both work almost flawlessly.
I am running a Lincoln/Century 120 inverter on 110, it needs at least a 30A breaker for the bigger welding rods. I am on a 20a breaker and I can weld with 1/8 6011 Fleetwelds all day.
So my prognosis is that these cheaper chinese rods just need a bit more power to keep from stickin. The Lincoln rods run like the others should.

I'm new to Forum and a welding hobbyist.
I got my Everlast 200ST machine and it's totally different animal. I was testing it on 1/8" steel with 6011 Hobart, 7014 and 7018 electrodes; all are 3/32" dia. The current setting for a good bid with short arc are 40A, 50A and 70A respectively. They lights up easy and keep arc going. That's almost 20Amps less than my transformer AC/DC. I'm still testing it and making notes. Everlast has connector for 6010 but I don't have it and for now don't need it. I will try 6011 on 6010 leg. I have some light welding project going and would use my Mig but wants to see what can be done with the stick

Looks like Lincoln Electric have a nordic distributor in Finland and they seem to include 5P and 5P+, could this be the chance to acquire some of these rare than gold 6010 electrodes... No idea if my inverter welder will like them though

i too had the same results with 6011 rods on my 80 amps welder.. i think it might be how they make them vs the lincoln rods..

For me, I have had the best result using 6011 electrodes when my machine is on AC. It penetrates well and has a smoother arc charestic than when I have used the same rod on the DC setting.