Welding Tips and Tricks

I like Lincoln 7018 rods, but they are so expensive. Which ones do you use?

Given a choice in 7018s, I'll run Lincoln Excaliburs every time. If I can't get to the Lincolns, I'll run Hobarts from TSC.

For 7018 Lincoln Excalibur is where its at. As for 6010/6011's and others I just get whatever good brand I can find cheapest (Hobart, Lincoln, Etc...) Just lurk around on ebay and wait for good deals to pop up then jump on them. I just bought a 50ib can of 7018 Lincoln Excalibur for $63 free shipping. I didn't need them at all as I have plenty of 7018 right now but for that price I couldn't let them go.

Given a choice in 7018s, I'll run Lincoln Excaliburs every time. If I can't get to the Lincolns, I'll run Hobarts from TSC.

+1

Lincoln or Esab.

Washington Alloy from L&M Fleet store. $2/lb.

Lincoln all day. 7018, 11018 and 6010, 8010 only. Tig rod I've got a bit of everything.

Hands down Esab Atom Arc.

For general work, whatever I can get the best deal on by the pallet. Critical work i.e. Section IX or in service pipe (stopple/hot tap) Lincoln Excalibur per the job.

OH Man. Hilco Basic on a gen rig. I prefer to run Basic Super on the bench.
Ya ready ? I run it on AC
Try it. You'll like it. Excaliber is like screwing around with a crappy Snap-On Dual 80 when you could use a Wright.
It's a fanboy rod. The Starbux of the iron world. Hobarts are great for bending in a circle to keep the raccoons out of the chicken house.

The Esab is a damn good rod too.Especially standing on your head and welding wrong handed.
A little spendy around here so I grab the Hilco Basics. One's as good as the other

^^Say what you want, but use a snap on fine tooth, and then a run of the mill generic. Theres usually a reason tools and consumables cost more. Like when I first got my stihl 24". My generic farm n fleet saw hasn't seen the light of day since.

"Antorcha
OH Man. Hilco Basic on a gen rig. I prefer to run Basic Super on the bench.
Ya ready ? I run it on AC
Try it. You'll like it. Excaliber is like screwing around with a crappy Snap-On Dual 80 when you could use a Wright.
It's a fanboy rod. The Starbux of the iron world. Hobarts are great for bending in a circle to keep the raccoons out of the chicken house."

You CHOOSE AC for SMAW, or that is all you have available? You do realize the AC Sine wave crosses zero right? Alternating Current is great for some processes, for example seam welders that like the cooling action between the SCR's chopping the wave for heat control.

If you are stick welding and your machine has a choice between AC or DC, you should really be on direct current for optimum process.

Just my opinion

Found a rod very comparable to Excaliburs in my opinion. Comes packaged in 10lb containers foil wrapped. Just ordered a pallet of 7018.125 for $1.60 per pound, shipping included.

https://www.weldingcity.com/filler-meta ... -ship.html

weldingcity has a pretty good deal. tho they maybe out of stock soon, you should check them out time to time to stock up

hope this helps you

Checked your link.....

What are you smoking son? $3.50 per pound for 7018.125?

I have 2400lbs in the shop right now I will sell you for $3.00 per pound domestic shipping included

DLewis0289 wrote:Checked your link.....

What are you smoking son? $3.50 per pound for 7018.125?

I have 2400lbs in the shop right now I will sell you for $3.00 per pound domestic shipping included

Yep - lots of rods for $2/pound at the local store here.

[quote="MinnesotaDave"][quote="DLewis0289"]Checked your link.....

What are you smoking son? $3.50 per pound for 7018?

I have 2400lbs in the shop right now I will sell you for $3.00 per pound domestic shipping included [/quote]

Yep - lots of rods for $2/pound at the local store here.[/quote]


Hey, where are you getting your supplies at either DLewis0289 and MinnesotaDave, one is local do they own their website I can check out ? I'm in Georgia, so shipping is a thumbs up for me and my boys.

I can get Lincoln Excalibur from my LWS for 2 bucks a pound.

I am strictly a hobbyist, and I use 7014 and 6013. Both in 3/32". They both run great on AC, and don't require an oven. I keep some 6011 on hand but I don't think I've used it in over a year. I have read many posts about using 7018 without oven storage, but the times I have tried it, I get visible pinholes at the start of the weld bead, and I don't really like that. Especially since I don't do any type of structural welding.

I have been using 7018 exclusively since that's what I had to use at work (it's all they have). When time came to try and weld stuff for something other than just minor repairs at work as I got interested in learning more about it on my free time as well, I just stuck with them because I know them. I've wanted to experiment with 6010 for the benefits I've been told from youtube and elsewhere they have with fast freeze and blowing through rust and paint, and easier relighting than the 7018s for just tacking stuff up, but they don't really seem to sell them at all where I live, as coded work seems to prefer 7016 instead for root passes here and hobbyists are just assumed they will make due with 6013 which I don't really like that much since I can't get used to the way they run, and I I know nothing about 7016 since there are almost no articles or youtube videos about them anywhere. I've got a pack though and am anxious to burn a few sticks to see what happens.

Anyone else have any experience running 7016 and care to hand out some tips I'd love to hear how they differ from 6010 and why my part of the world seems to prefer it for open butt root passes? Are they fine for simple hobbyist builds that still need to carry some weight, like small car ramps, how easy are they to relight if you just wanna run around and put some tacks in (because thats' definitely a pain to do with 7018s) etc. Are there other rods I should be looking into? Like I said I have only ever run 7018 because that's all I've had access to.

Also, when burning 7018 on a cleaned surface the slag always peels off by itself, but if I can't get to the surface with a grinder because of positioning or other circumstantial bothers before welding, the slag becomes a real pain to remove. Is there a danger I'm trapping a lot of crap inside the bead itself, or does that mean I'm blowing it into the top layer of slag and that's what's making it a pain in my a** to remove?

Appreciate any tips

I prefer 6013 rod because it is more of an advanced type of rod if I remember correctly.6011,6010 too are deep penetrating rods.

BennettSmith wrote:I prefer 6013 rod because it is more of an advanced type of rod if I remember correctly.6011,6010 too are deep penetrating rods.

"advanced" in what way?

For me I use Lincoln for the most part. I can get 50lb tins at home depot for $63-70ea.