Welding Tips and Tricks

I am having a problem seeing the puddle on the 3G position. 1G and 2G... I see everything and I get the nice "C" pattern behind the puddle. But on vertical that "C" pattern I just cant seem to see and grasp regardless of how I position the plate in reference to my line-of-sight. I have been guessing the speed and that only sometimes works. The re-start on the root sometimes favors the right side. I swear the rod looks straight starting off but there seems to be something else going on in my vision.

Also, what are your procedures to build the bottom of your backing strip up before you start your bead? Seems when I try to build it up too long it just rolls off and down.

3/8th plate at 22.5
1/4" gap on the backing strip
1/8th Lincoln Excalibur rod
Miller Dialarc 250 set around 93 for the root.
I am using a passive shade 11 lens.


Thank you in advance for any helpful tips. (weaving only allowed to get the puddle stared)

Dirtynails wrote:I am having a problem seeing the puddle on the 3G position. 1G and 2G... I see everything and I get the nice "C" pattern behind the puddle. But on vertical that "C" pattern I just cant seem to see and grasp regardless of how I position the plate in reference to my line-of-sight. I have been guessing the speed and that only sometimes works. The re-start on the root sometimes favors the right side. I swear the rod looks straight starting off but there seems to be something else going on in my vision.

Also, what are your procedures to build the bottom of your backing strip up before you start your bead? Seems when I try to build it up too long it just rolls off and down.

3/8th plate at 22.5
1/4" gap on the backing strip
1/8th Lincoln Excalibur rod
Miller Dialarc 250 set around 93 for the root.
I am using a passive shade 11 lens.

Thank you in advance for any helpful tips. (weaving only allowed to get the puddle stared)

You should be at 110-120amps with a 1/8" 7018 rod for the 3g root pass.

I will try it at 110-120 and get let you know how it worked out. At the higher settings... how tight of an arc?

Dirtynails wrote:I will try it at 110-120 and get let you know how it worked out. At the higher settings... how tight of an arc?

Tight enough that you can feel the rod "scrub" the plate, as you oscilate.....

For a 1/8 rod start at 100 amps and mess around with it. Turn it up in interVals of 5 till 135. make sure you are keeping the same rod angle. Try a shade 10 also and see if you like that better. I like stick welding between a 10 and a 12. A shade down or even a shade higher can help you see your Puddle better. Good luck!

I tried the heat up and with a tight arc it crowns up in the middle. Thoughts?

Watch this video.

Then try it again.

http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... =23&t=7249

You don't need a ridiculous tight arc. don't long arc it tho. If it's stacking in the middle you arr spending too much time in the middle. Side till it wets out, other side till it wets out. Back and forth. Weld the sides and the center will weld itself.

DylanWelds wrote:You don't need a ridiculous tight arc. don't long arc it tho. If it's stacking in the middle you arr spending too much time in the middle. Side till it wets out, other side till it wets out. Back and forth. Weld the sides and the center will weld itself.

Amen!

Focus on filling the sides, and sweep across the middle. The middle will take care of itself.

Steve S

I certainly appreciate the help. I tried a shade 10 and with that shade you can certainly control the stick out by the arc vision. Are you jamming it into the sides, then hitting the other side in a z-weave?

I don't jam my arc too tight. Not too far either though. And I'm not really focusing on what I do with my electrode so much, just tying into one side and letting it fill then skipping to the other while watching my puddle. Get it going then keep your eye on your puddle and try to make it consistent all the way up.

I always did an inverted "u", to get some arc time across the leading edge of the metal. This seemed to help with wetting out the sides, as gravity would draw some fresh metal from the center to the side.

Honestly, I haven't burned a stick-rod in three years, so I'm not explaining it like I saw the question yesterday and paid attention to it today.

Steve S

I appreciate all of the help and tips in this thread. I am dealing with the stringer caps now and need to turn the heat down on caps. They are crowning a little towards the top of the plate.

The best way I was shown to tie into the sides in a weave bead is just hold your normal arc length and when you get to the sides pause for about 2 seconds then move back across the bevel. You want some crown in the middle but not much at all. And with a 7018, dont shove it into the weld or plate. Youre just asking it to stick basicly. Where the ground clamp is hooked up can also play a pretty big role in how well they lay in there.

I never thought about clamping the ground to the plate.

Believe it or not with 7018 electrodes, it can make a big difference in the weld. It all has to do with the magnetic fields. Put the clamp at the end youre gonna start the bead at and weld away from it. Itll help it lay better to a point. Most of it is amps and manipulation of the rod

Thanks for the help, I passed the destructive test.

Dirtynails wrote:Thanks for the help, I passed the destructive test.

Congratulations!

What's next?

Steve S