Welding Tips and Tricks

At my job I'm building racks(for experience, I'm currently a forklift driver) and I'm working with an "experience" maintenance/welder of 30 years.

I need to know what rods and amps u would use to weld 1/8 angle to repair these racks. Some were not properly aligned. I think I already have an idea, I just want to hear from u guys

Skillets365 wrote:At my job I'm building racks(for experience, I'm currently a forklift driver) and I'm working with an "experience" maintenance/welder of 30 years.

I need to know what rods and amps u would use to weld 1/8 angle to repair these racks. Some were not properly aligned. I think I already have an idea, I just want to hear from u guys

Skillets365,
What rods do you have and what position will they be in?
What amps do you think you should be running?
-Jonathan

We had 3/32 6010 and 7018(which was horribly take care of)

The positions was 2,3 and 4F

I think we should of use the 6010 at around 60 to 65 amps

The weld we was using was a suitcase miller welder that could only handle 3/32

Skillets365 wrote:We had 3/32 6010 and 7018(which was horribly take care of)

The positions was 2,3 and 4F

I think we should of use the 6010 at around 60 to 65 amps

The weld we was using was a suitcase miller welder that could only handle 3/32

Just me, but if you want it to look good, opt for a 115 mig machine. flux core maybe

It'll do 1/8 angle like gravy.

But, if your like me, mobile and repair stuff, I stick a lot of stuff.

Go get a 10lb can of 3/32 7018, maybe 80amps, I was running some today, welding 1/8 wall galvi pipe.

Lots of ways, but the fastest, cleanest, and "better" way, IMO, Mig.

~John

Hey AK,

It is a moble job, no mig available.

So 7018 at 80 amps wouldn't melt the angle fast?and would 3/32 6010 not work better, it being a fast freeze rod with bad alignment? What ever the amps was on it, it melted the angle almost instantly And giving me troubles

What would u use giving the rods and equipment I had?

Well,
I hate to be caught saying this, but a 3/32 6013 will give a smooth bead, less penetration, which means less burn through.

Run them maybe 50amps.

Do these filets have a good fit?? clean metal??

~John

I was very limited with what rods to use. I was at his mercy.

So it was only 6010 and some shitty 7018

A couple good fit and a couple bad fit and there was paint on the metal.

Well then,

If you cant get "good rods, or "clean, fit metal", than 3/32 6010 will weld best.

If they are old, and powdery, have a cup of water, maybe 2inches of water in it, setting on the table next to you, and right before you light up, dunk the end of the rod in the cup for a couple seconds.

Give a good crisp start.

55-65amps all positions, 1/8 inch angle, should do you.

On the vertical ones, run downhill.

Let us know how it goes.

~John

Skillets365 wrote:Hey AK,

It is a moble job, no mig available.

So 7018 at 80 amps wouldn't melt the angle fast?and would 3/32 6010 not work better, it being a fast freeze rod with bad alignment? What ever the amps was on it, it melted the angle almost instantly And giving me troubles

What would u use giving the rods and equipment I had?

Not having a pic of exact joint, I think I would go with the 7018 70-80amps. While the 6010 is a fast freeze, it does penetrate well possible leading to blowing through. It the gap or misalignment is 1/8" or less than the 6010 will work as well. Kind of a toss up.
I will agree with John, run downs (6010's) if it is to out of hand.
-Jonathan

I repaired one rack so far. I'll get some pics of the weld tomorrow.

It just seemed too hot. The fit up wasn't to good and the weld wasn't clean. I should of used 6010 running them low

AKweldshop wrote:Well then,

If you cant get "good rods, or "clean, fit metal", than 3/32 6010 will weld best.

If they are old, and powdery, have a cup of water, maybe 2inches of water in it, setting on the table next to you, and right before you light up, dunk the end of the rod in the cup for a couple seconds.

Give a good crisp start.

55-65amps all positions, 1/8 inch angle, should do you.

On the vertical ones, run downhill.

Let us know how it goes.

~John

This is what I would recommend also on old shitty, rusted, painted material with crappy fit up. It's amazing how this rod is so versatile in environments like that. When I worked on the rail, a lot of field jobs were done with 6010

Maybe just me, but 6010/11 are just not that popular in Aus.... Learning to stick weld is hard enough, but equip a "newb" with a "firestick" and things are going to get ugly fast. Especially on 1/8" steel with gaps. Just my opinion. Even 7018 are going to be hard, until he gets arc lenght issues under control.

Mick

7018

Skillets365 wrote:

7018

It will hold....I think
-Jonathan

Skillets,
That weld will hold as long as that metal lives.

I welded up this rack years ago, with 3/32 6011.
It was a bent up rack that I gave $5 for at an auction.

All 1x1 1/8inch thick angle....

Smoke those 6011 beads in, about 70amps

Been standing there for years with probably 1,000's of pounds of steel on it....

Has gotten 6inches shorter though.

If you called me I'd go out to the shop and grab a tube of 3/32 7014 and run them AC at about 65-80 amps.

For 1/8", it doesn't really matter what electrodes,as long as the amps are kept down. A 1/8 7018 would be required to run too hot and ultimately might burn through. Also, they run slower if that's any concern. Others have suggested the 3/32" sized electrodes and that's wise. What AK suggested about the 6010 is perfect. Runs great over light paint and crud and the amps are not as hot as a 7014, 6013 or 7018 would need to be.