Welding Tips and Tricks

Hello folks. In this topic I will post my own problems with welding.
Well I am new in weldig world and lot of things seams dificult to me and I have lot of questions.

So here I will post my questions, my weld pictures and so on...

My equipment is AC arc welder Telwin Nordica 4.181 it goes from 55 to 160 amps and runs on 220V AC

So here is one simple question...

Much ofthen my weld do lok like this on picture below


Welding material from electrode deposits on both side of 2 welding metals buth there is bad fusion and almost no metal deposits in the center, the midle place where 2 metals do connect. That space is ofthen filled wiht slag...and after welding ewerything looks nice buth when I hammer the slag...there is no filler metal in the centre just on 2 sides.

How to solve this problem and why this happens?

Hey,

Im guessing you have 6012 or 6013 rods. This is a common newby problem with these rods. The way around it is to wait at the start of the weld, untill the heat builds up unough to make the weld join in the middle. A little wiggle of the rod can help in this. After a second, you should be able to see the weld.pool and slag become separate , the slag will sit back from the weld pool, and be still. If you are getting the inclusions you speak of, you will notice the slag swirling around.

Good luck Mick

Have to agree with Mike on this one.

Plus, there could be other issues in addition to rod choice.
>amp setting
>using a DC rod
>rod size
>travel speed (how many inches of weld per rod)
>whip or weave technique (if any)
>material thickness
>material cleanliness (grind to shiny?)

If you could provide those details then it is likely that more members could drop a few hints. A photo rather than a drawing may give more clues.

Before the information comes, I'm taking a guess.

I've seen it often. A beginning welder does not see the difference between the puddle and the slag, and advances as if the slag were the puddle. I.e., moving way too fast, looking at the back side of what's happening. The slag appears to fill the gap.

Move much slower. Put too much metal down, and work backward from there. You should have the rod pointing "back at where you were" 10 or 20 degrees until you see clearly what's happening.

Steve S

Mike yes I am using 6013 rods. I heard that my ac welder can burn those 6011 rods buth cant buy them here in town, I live in smal place so only 6013 aviable.

Thank for your tips. As I have understud you....my travel speed should shoul be slower, especialy at the start.


@GWD...no it is a standard 6013 its not dc rod. Usualy I use 3.2 electodes.
Amperage I use is 90 to 140 amps (mostly 120) ant that depends od the thicknes od the metal.

I try to whip whawe...and to clean my material always with the grinder.
A photo I will try to give you as soon I will be able.


@Oto(Steve) i do not know my welding speed and dont know how to measure it. And I realy don know do i recognize and how to recognize pool and slag buth when I weld slower then I do it seem sto me looking under the mask that ewerything spatter to much...and if metal is tinner i do get burntroughts

So maybe I slould try lower amperage and slower speed? Buth if I put to much metal will the weld be weak?

I will post pictures soon

And sory to all on bad english

The guys will be able to tell your speed by how many inches of weld you can get from one rod. 3.2mm (1/8") should go 10-15 cm (4-6"). A photo would also help determine if speed is an issue.

Putting more metal down then necessary will not weaken the weld. It is just a waste of material. That is why a previous recommendation is to put down more metal than necessary and then back off from there (slight increase speed, or length, of weld). Eventually, through experimentation, you'll find the speed that gives the results you are looking for.

Try using up a rod in 10 cm of weld and see what happens. Then use one in 12 cm. Continue until the weld deteriorates.

Oh, if you can get some 7014 rod it may be more satisfying to use for learning. I know 6013 is the "go-to" rod in Europe but maybe a welding supply place can order a few kg. for you.

Your amps seem about right. Try a slight weave technique rather than a whip as an experiment. A fast-freeze rod like 6011 works well with a whip but 6013 works better for me with a slow weave. To be frank, I avoid 6013 when other rods are available but with your limited sources you have to make do with what you have.

Well photo evidence may correct me - but instinct says unlucky combination of poor quality rods that stick easily on a smallish welder that probably has lowish open circuit volts resulting in using too long an arc length - possibly a bit of rod angle as well - can't quote you a rod to try as we don't seem to have the same kinds according to location - but in the UK I'd find something that will just drag - Bohler make some nice ones - Esab 46.00 is OK - Oerlikon supercord were good.
Good luck.

I personally believe your amps are to high which will cause burn though. decreasing yours amps should help drastically with a 3/32 rod I would use 90 amps, with a 1/8 105 ,however thickness of the metal being welded on will determine the amps. make sure the weld puddle stays in the corner.
Any one else having trouble posting replies... I am having to type slow its like its picking up the key strokes

Will have my camera back from repair soon so I will post few pictures of my welding here. Until that 2 more quick question.


Is it posible to film welding with camera...its some cheep benq...do i have to put it under welding mask or it is posible to film directly?


And second question...when welding metal pieces...is it ok to cold them in wather ?

I don't suggest using water to quick-cool your welds. The thermal shock can do strange things to the metallurgy, even in seemingly "low alloy" metals. Use compressed air with a blower nozzle, and be patient. This gets real important with high-alloy and stainless steels.

Steve S

Ok folks as I promissed here are pictures of my awfull welds....because my camera is finaly back

Most of welds are old ones so there is corosion on them...buth its enought(I think) to you to see where do I make mistakes and help me with that.

So here I am posting 36 pictures of my welds...look at them and say whats the problem with my welding.

P.S. All welds are made with telwin nordica 4.181 AC welder. Rods that I use are EZ 11-f, on american standard they are 6013 and they are the only ones I can buy in my town. Thicknes of rods is 3.2 mm, amperage I used in those weld is from 90 to 160 amps.


Ok...here is one sqare pipe weld. Not actualy a bad one


2 pieces of an old practise...looks terible






2 L profiles joined in one...not so bad buth not so good






old straight practise welds...there is lot of corosion on them buth you can see they are bad





more bad welds
















Weld with circular rod motion...slag looks nice and its easy to remowe buht under the slag not so nice weld








One weld with go straight and go back rood motion...slag looks nice weld looks bad





And finaly...t joints...My badeest welding dreams...here you can clearly see what does happens like on the first ms paint image of this topic...welding metal goes only on one side of metal: Slag looks nice buth under slag is almost no joint...






Other parth of T joint...I used bigger amperage and was going slowly...much better looking weld...buth stil got places where slag is traped in weld...








other side of T joint looks realy realy bad





And the last picture is one straight weld buth with 5mm rod on 160 amps...also looks bad









I hope that I have provided you with enought pictures although they are long ago welded and rusty.

So please look at the pictures and give me advices how to correct those mistakes

Great photos! They clear things up so the real weldors can give some suggestions.

It looks to me (a farm weldor) that the travel speed could be more consistent. There is a transition from a good weld to a slag-trapped weld and back and forth along the T joint.

It also appear that a little work on a weave technique would improve the situation. Not much is needed. Just let the rod sit on one plate for a second, then hurry across the middle, and let it sit on the other plate for a second. As you hurry back to the first plate move in the direction of the weld just a bit. Continue on with the same pattern.

You might be comfortable with a "U" pattern, "V" pattern, or diagonal "/", then "\" pattern. Note: the typed pattern is more extreme than the pattern you'd use on the weld. Test to see which one works best for you.

The weave doesn't have to be much more than 1/8" to 1/4". Try different patterns to find the sweet spot.

Edit: Oh, and don't be too hard on yourself. Things will work out.

Well, thanks werry much on your best advices. And sorry to all on my bad englihs...somethimes i think that me myself do not understand what do I type... I am an god damn bosnian serb and in our language there is so much swearing and courses that we normaly use(as the americans use: OK, good day, hello) so if I would translate directly what I am speaking to you it would bee something like what the fucking hell is with this fucking weld, is the damn amperage correct or i am running the rod bitch to fast god damn it Buth english is waaay to sparsely with swearing and courses so I must type wery slow


I am not to hard on myself...I just like to do things right. No matter is it glass polishing, eggs cooking, pencil sharpening or arc welding...I like to do it the best I can...buth those weld do not look nice no matter how hard I try. Ofcourse I am a total begginer buth there is werry les advance in my welding quality...


I will try ofcourse to play with tips that you provided to me.

One thing that ocured to me now...welding speed... Here is one litle paint picture:


On all weld I used welding speed like one on the most left picture...I use rod angle between 45 and 90 degrees. And I watch the puddle. When I have nice puddle at the start I go on. When it becomes tinner I slow down. When is to fat i speed up.

Buth...when I slow down more like most people say to me...puddle goes in front of the electrode(I still do 10 to 30 angle) and slag goes into the weld wich is bad. When I travel at that lower speed I tried to give the rod much mor angle(picutre 3 or most right one) there is no slag in the weld...buth weld looks blown out. it is just on the top of the metal fusion is bad penetration is week.

When I do things like on the middle picture...angle between 90 and 45 degrees, and lover the apms so the puddle dont goes in front of the rod...the weld looks too high and narrow, penetration is week and rod sticks werry much.

So...I do not know what to do...

GWD is right... Don't beat yourself up. It'll come, and once you have it, you'll wonder why it took so long.

Those aren't so bad as you think. Each is a learning experience.

You said you're using the equivalent of 6013, at 3.2mm. For flat-postion groove welds and fillets, you should work between 120-140 amps (if your machine reads accurately) I always liked 125A, but it's been a long while since I welded on AC. You also said in an earlier post that when you slow down, you get more spatter. That's normal, and there are fixes for it. Ignore it for now, and focus on making the bead look like you want it to.

On a fillet weld (tee-joint), your rod should be 45* to each plate (this is a learning position, you'll change a bit later), and you should be pointing back at where your welding about 30* (again, you'll change this with experience), meaning your hands are ahead of where you're welding. You should be pushing just a bit, straight toward the joint, ahead of the weld. (You're not pushing toward the puddle, at that 30*, but straight to the joint, well ahead of where the weld is happening. Dragging it, like dragging a tree-branch to cover your tracks... down, not back.) Don't try to pull the rod forward, either, to go faster. When you find the sweet spot, the rod will do the welding, and you're just holding it where it needs to be.

You have enough of an idea at this point it would be good for you to watch someone (close--hood to hood) with experience. It would save you some time.

Steve S

After reading your reply (before my post), I'm concerned that the rod (flux) quality may be an issue. You seem to be doing much of what I suggested.

Do you have an economical way to dry your rods? An hour or two in a 250*F (120*C) oven?

Steve S

Well I keep my rods in a room inw ich I sleep they are not in garage so they should be dry enought...but I will try to put them in my cooking oven or so coled electric stove...it has a dialing gauge and can bee set from 75 to 250 C so will try.

Hope they wont smell nice so I wont eat them like fried potatoes

Hey,

You seem to have the same kind of sense of humour as Australians.

Mick

Whell thats because we are relatives. My grandmother and your grandmother dried underwear under the same sun.

Thats an old serbian saying. Buth quite bad translation I have for it.

Australian humor is nice to me. Dont kinda like british like humor...they are toooo much civilized on that question. We here like villager type of humor


And where is the damn bartender my mug of bear is almost empty

qwerty12 wrote: My grandmother and your grandmother dried underwear under the same sun.

That may not lose as much in translation as you might think.

I smiled when I read that. My aunt said something similar... The Pope's drawers dry in the same air as yours...

Steve S

with one exception...we here do not have pope, we have patriarch...and since they where mantle it is a great question do they at all whear drawers

LMFAO!!!

Untill more people replyes on "how to correct bad weld pictures"
I will ask few more questions....

Is it possible to repair car bodywork with arc welding.

I posted one topic abouth thin mettal here some time ago...made myself few axhausts on my bike out of 1mm metal...and they work today as new.

Buth...got an old car that is realy rusty...and asking is it posible to fix it completly with arc welding ? 1.6 or 2mm rods....55 to 70 amps?

It can be done, but it will work you. Short bursts of arc to fuse the metal, then drag the rod across a brick or a file to break the flux off it so you can strike the next arc.

It's a pain in the ass, but you can do it.

Steve S

is the welding done that way at same quality like one with co2?

Hey,

Doing it the way otto suggests will get the job done but it will of low quality compared to other processes.

Mick