Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi Guys,

I am Arc welding some 1/4 mild steel here using a E6013 1/8 rod at 140 amps. When I chip off the slag, there is heavy porosity in the bead.

Bit of a newbie to old school stick welding, but having too much fun with it to quit.

What might be causing this?

HOW CLEAN IS THE STEEL? WERE THE 6013 ELECTRODES EXPOSED TO EXCESSIVE MOISTURE AT ANY TIME?

I'm no expert welder but doesn't 140 amps seem a little hot for the application?

Alright,

Well, come to find out that the rods are a bit past their use by date. They are full of moisture. I was suspect of this when during welding, I noticed bubbles forming around the electrode just above the arc

first off take that 6013 and throw it away. i only use that shit to make small hooks out of...lol.... if your running A\C, get some 6011 and 7018AC. if your using D\C, get some 6010 and 7018 and run reverse polarity. that would be the stinger lead hooked up to the positive side. it also refered as DCEP. but them are the most common welding rods used for stick welding. the 6010 or 6011 would be for dirty steel and root passes. the 7018 is for fillers and caps on clean steel. you can also use it on fillet welds without a problem. also remember to put your rods in a hot box or at least a sealed box to keep moister out. i'm sure i will catch alot of slack for talking shit about the 6013 rod, but this is just my opinion. for what i do it serves no purpose what so ever to me.

From my small amount of experience, hammerwelds is correct. 6013 will usually produce an inferior bead to a 6011 rod, the slag is much harder to chip, and for the same price, I myself cant see much of a reason to use a 6013 rod. Get some 6011 and 7018 ac and go to town.

6013's are normally used as sheet metal rods, very low penetrating. So on 1/4" plate with a 1/8" rod your about right at 140 amps. But, i'm with everyone else on using 6010 or 11 and 7018 rods.

On the other hand, if you're in the bush of New Zealand you may not have ready access to other better choices of welding rod. You may have to get by with what's available. 6013 is notorious for "getting wet and causing the porosity you describe.

You can dry the rod to make it serviceable again if you have access to any type of heat source (oven) that can maintain 400 or so degrees for 5 or 6 hours.

It's been years since I've used 6013 for anything so I can't remember the exact temp. and "cook time" but seems to me you could start out at around 425 or 450 degrees F. and cook the rods for 4 to 6 hours then try them again. Best way I've found is to spread them out on the baking racks so the heat can get all around and dry them completely. After drying to the point they work again, try to store them in some sort of moisture proof container.

6013 is not the best choice but they don't call it farmer's rod for nothing. Its been used to make successful serviceable repairs on all types of farm tools and equipment for a LONG time. If it's all you got you can make it work.

Please help I have the opportunity to buy this flux only welder for 100, but I need to know if they are good? Does anyone have one?

Not sure what you are talking about. Need more info.

why for the love of god are you using 6013? if you must use them go to the higher end of the recommended range plus about 10 amps. in my opinion 6013 are only good for welding pipe railings and making hooks to hang my coat.