Welding Tips and Tricks

Hi
I am a beginner and I dont know why I have this welds. I dont have problems on plane surfaces. Can you help me?

It'd not your fault. It's very difficult to get fusion into the very tight gap in a pipe to plate weld. You can grind a bit off the pipe to open up the gap, and a little off the under side to drop it down a bit. You can also put in a little bit of rod in the gap and weld that into the joint.

What’s the max ampson that machine. I think you might be running too big of a rod for the amps your using.

Also, on the plus side, your electrode is called super tit. Which is always good.

i think half the problem is lack of decent tacks to start with.
but i suspect its a case of not manipulating the rod enough as you need to change quite a bit of angle as you move from one side to the other. you will need to weave a bit to at least get a good tack in. if your rod is big enough you may just be able to start off on the tack on drag it down the middle. with small rods you will need to weave to bridge the gap.
it hard to tell what size that metal is compared to the rod.

electrode look to be 6013 so that should run fine on your welder. i would probably run electrode positive.

[quote="Poland308"]What’s the max ampson that machine. I think you might be running too big of a rod for the amps your using.[/quotthe max is 250 amps and for this weld i think it was 90 amps. I am thinking that i was using too low amperage.

claudiusighisoara wrote:the max is 250 amps and for this weld i think it was 90 amps. I am thinking that i was using too low amperage.

those rods are 50-70amp range.
how thick is the steel?
quite possible rods are to small.

tweake wrote:

claudiusighisoara wrote:the max is 250 amps and for this weld i think it was 90 amps. I am thinking that i was using too low amperage.

those rods are 50-70amp range.
how thick is the steel?
quite possible rods are to small.

The plate is 5 mm thick and the round bar is 1 cm.

A couple of thoughts - you have plenty of available amps & the 5mm material will easily allow you to use a bigger rod say 3.25mm which is far easier to start with - I always find the little 2mm like you have seem more difficult so maybe reserve those for thinner material & buy some bigger rods- also unless I'm miss reading the photo the weld appears too far up from the root for a rod so small to bridge the distance without trapping slag & likely you don't have rod jammed down in the V tight enough - you can't usually bridge a gap like that with stick - Mig would easily so my advice is try a bigger rod & give it enough amps to bury it down into the joint - don't worry if the resulting weld is smaller than you want - once you have a slag free root in then you build up any fillet size you want in multiple runs. Apart from it's an amusing name what kind of a rod is it ? I don't see any familiar designation on the part of the label in the photo.

First of all, clean both pieces to shiny metal. I see lots of millscale on that 5mm plate.
Then put some good tacks on so both parts have a good solid connection to the work clamp wherever you put it.
A bad work clamp connection on one part will give a wandering arc resulting in blobs (pigeon poo) like you have here. Especially with the small 2mm rods you are using. Another part of the problem could be too long an arc.
Step up to 3/32 (2.5mm) rods, up the amps and cram that rod in there.

Regarding the Supertit rods (love the name). They are from Saf-Fro (Romanian?) which is owned by Lincoln but the adress on the box is from Lincoln Smitweld in the Netherlands. Smitweld is a Dutch firm which was bought by Lincoln a long time ago and they make first class electrodes. I don't know if the Saf-Fro electrodes are of the same quality, but if they are produced in the same Smitweld plant in the Netherlands they probably are.

the other thing worth mentioning is small diameter rods are prone to whipping due to a tiny amount of hand shake.
i'm bad enough with 2.5mm rods!
bigger rods tend not to have that problem. i would jump up to a 3.2mm.
with 6013 rods try to get ones that are not made for thin material. by mem probably some of the double coated rods.

More amps and a tighter arc.
Dragging the slag back on each whip.

More amps and slow down. Your outrunning the puddle. Watch the puddle, not the arc and ensure your puddle washes into each piece as you move along slowly.