Hello members! Glad to be here.
I have a question on a piece of hardware that got damaged by mistake and I would like to try to repair it since with some help in the right direction.
The pipe that connects the two sides of the quick detach got twisted and not sure how to take it off to replace it.
it's welded on though both ends. Size is 2.375" OD and 1.875 ID.
I need to figure out how to post a picture of the part for you to view and get a better idea of what it looks like.
Your help is appreciated.
chou560
Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Angle grinder with a cut off wheel? Its a tube, so should be easy enough to cut it loose, grind the ends flat to the sides, then replace with a new piece of tubing of adequate strength welded in.
Maybe I'm missing something?
Maybe I'm missing something?
Mike Westbrook
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If your talking about a Kubota by chance at work we usually look to see if the powder coat has cracked if so we put a block of wood under the side closer to the floor with the quick attach face down use the loader to add some down pressure then slowly heat it with a rose bud around the cracked powder coat until it lines up again we have cut them out in the past and rewelded them but for all that bar does ( it basically times the curl cylinders ) it's alot less time consuming I can do one in a few minutes that way hope this helps
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Cutting torch hammer and a full vocabulary
Thank you guys for your replies!
Yes Mike it is a Kubota quick detach for an LA1153 loader.
Your explaination is very much appreciated.
I will look closly to see if and where the powder coating is cracked and try to do what you suggested.
What size tip should I use on the torch? The Pipe is 2 3/8" OD and 1/4" thick wall.
Thanks again for your help guys,
Charles
Yes Mike it is a Kubota quick detach for an LA1153 loader.
Your explaination is very much appreciated.
I will look closly to see if and where the powder coating is cracked and try to do what you suggested.
What size tip should I use on the torch? The Pipe is 2 3/8" OD and 1/4" thick wall.
Thanks again for your help guys,
Charles
Mike Westbrook
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I'm not real sure the size I use a Victor medium duty so it's decent you don't want it glowing hot (that would fatigue it ) work slow when it gets to the right spot I use an air Chuck to cool or kill the torch and blast it with o2
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Cutting torch hammer and a full vocabulary
Thank you Mike for your help.Mike Westbrook wrote:I'm not real sure the size I use a Victor medium duty so it's decent you don't want it glowing hot (that would fatigue it ) work slow when it gets to the right spot I use an air Chuck to cool or kill the torch and blast it with o2
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Can you please clearify what you mean with blasting it with o2. The torch or the heated area?
Can I just use the tourch's o2 to kill it and cool down the heated area if that is that you meant?
Thanks,
Mike Westbrook
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Yes I shut the torch off and cool with the oxygen sometimes or a blow Chuck works tochou560 wrote:Thank you Mike for your help.Mike Westbrook wrote:I'm not real sure the size I use a Victor medium duty so it's decent you don't want it glowing hot (that would fatigue it ) work slow when it gets to the right spot I use an air Chuck to cool or kill the torch and blast it with o2
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Can you please clearify what you mean with blasting it with o2. The torch or the heated area?
Can I just use the tourch's o2 to kill it and cool down the heated area if that is that you meant?
Thanks,
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Cutting torch hammer and a full vocabulary
If you can't reach with grinder or have no torch (plasma or oxy) or electrode holder for air arc gouging or other option:
Plain old 6013 with high current will do the job for removing the old part. Just blow it away with the arc, hold the electrode so that the metal will be falling down. (or you can use any other suitable electrode with low return rate)
Start by keeping medium arc until base metal gets red hot (the size of a coin) then push the electrode in until a hole is blown through.
Then slowly advance by moving the electrode back and forth (like a "saw") and material will be removed.
After you have removed the part, you can blow away any left over material/metal/pieces using same technique, or grind it using a straight grinder.
https://p1.akcdn.net/full/280569265.bosch-ggs-28-lc.jpg
Once we had to weld some 3/4 and 1/2 BSP threaded pipe fittings on a big water cistern, 1/4" wall thickness, and out in the field there was no cutting equipment available so we used this method. Then the holes were ground round using straight-grinder and pieces stick welded in place.
There are actually some manufacturers I've heard that are making stick-cutting electrodes that require no compressed air or special holder, but have never seen or used any myself.
Plain old 6013 with high current will do the job for removing the old part. Just blow it away with the arc, hold the electrode so that the metal will be falling down. (or you can use any other suitable electrode with low return rate)
Start by keeping medium arc until base metal gets red hot (the size of a coin) then push the electrode in until a hole is blown through.
Then slowly advance by moving the electrode back and forth (like a "saw") and material will be removed.
After you have removed the part, you can blow away any left over material/metal/pieces using same technique, or grind it using a straight grinder.
https://p1.akcdn.net/full/280569265.bosch-ggs-28-lc.jpg
Once we had to weld some 3/4 and 1/2 BSP threaded pipe fittings on a big water cistern, 1/4" wall thickness, and out in the field there was no cutting equipment available so we used this method. Then the holes were ground round using straight-grinder and pieces stick welded in place.
There are actually some manufacturers I've heard that are making stick-cutting electrodes that require no compressed air or special holder, but have never seen or used any myself.
Hey Guys,
I feel stupid to ask but.
I'm not able to see any cracks in the powder coating.
I'm looking along the tube connecting the two ends of the quick detach together. May be I'm looking in the wrong place.
What would a crack in the powder coating look like?
Thanks for your help,
Chou560
I feel stupid to ask but.
I'm not able to see any cracks in the powder coating.
I'm looking along the tube connecting the two ends of the quick detach together. May be I'm looking in the wrong place.
What would a crack in the powder coating look like?
Thanks for your help,
Chou560
Mike Westbrook
- Mike Westbrook
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Joined:Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:13 pm
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Location:Central pa
The powder coat may not show cracks if that's the case go for the middle
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Cutting torch hammer and a full vocabulary
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