Welding Tips and Tricks

Hello all,
I just joined this forum.
I have been doing some MIG welding for a little while and just purchased a ac/dc stick welder.
I will be wanting to weld mild steel. Can someone give me some recommendations on what electrodes, what sizes and how much to purchase? Also, is there a big difference between standard and premium electrodes?
Thanks!

P.S: Is jody on here?

Don’t be afraid to buy rod 10 lbs at a time, or more. Especially if you can get it in sealed containers after you open the pack. Is your welder capable of 6010 or 6011. 7018 is a standard in the us. But keeps better if you seal it up or keep it in a hot box. After that there are lots of options but it depends on what you expect the end results to be.

Welcome I personally like 6011 in 1/8 3/32 good for new work makes nice welds and works for most things also like 6013 in 1/8 3/32 (and I keep some 1/16 which I use more than I expected there almost like mig and can easily do sheet metal) 6013 works good in less than ideal conditions like the state's mower I fixed the other day that thing was a heap of junk and I keep some 7018 around but only in1/8 if I go to those it's usually for larger heavier stuff as far as name brand you almost have to search for junk I got some harbor freight rods once on the clearance rack for 2 dollars they were junk but still worked get a few lbs of a few differant ones and see what works for you I would also recommend getting good rod holders or make some good ones from pvc to keep them dry and clean best thing to do is burn up a couple pounds in different positions on different thicknesses to get used to what works for you

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At least in my experience, as long as you're fine with always cleaning your work before welding, you can never go wrong with 7018 in 3/32" and 1/8". I've dried open boxes of 7-18 in a 450* oven for 4 hours while I was cutting and prepping metal and never had issues. Never have had an issue with the Lincoln 10lb boxes from Home Depot and Lowes, or Vulcan and Hobart from welding supplies. Vulcan from Harbor Freight I've never gotten to run well. Like what was said above, get a few lbs of different rods and thicknesses and see what you like best, and don't be afraid of messing around with some stainless and aluminum welding rod. I've got most of my stick rod stored in rod holders I got from Home Depot years ago. O-ring seal and got some desiccant packs in lid just to try and keep any moisture from fully absorbing into the flux.

I agree I keep some 308l stainless rods they run like butter also got some Messer 80t-ac rods and they run all positions nicely on ac

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Poland308 wrote:Don’t be afraid to buy rod 10 lbs at a time, or more. Especially if you can get it in sealed containers after you open the pack. Is your welder capable of 6010 or 6011. 7018 is a standard in the us. But keeps better if you seal it up or keep it in a hot box. After that there are lots of options but it depends on what you expect the end results to be.

I am not sure whether it is capable of 6010,6011. It is a miller two fifty twin. It doesn't say in the manual whether it can or not. Can I just stick one in the holder and try it?

You can run both with your machine. Just make sure to chose the right polarity for the electrode. Some will only run DC+, DC-, DC+/-, some only AC, and some are AC/DC.

Junior Welder wrote:Hello all,
I just joined this forum.
I have been doing some MIG welding for a little while and just purchased a ac/dc stick welder.
I will be wanting to weld mild steel. Can someone give me some recommendations on what electrodes, what sizes and how much to purchase? Also, is there a big difference between standard and premium electrodes?
Thanks!

P.S: Is jody on here?

Try 6013 1/8" I found most welders can do welding with this rod size and type

Do not try 7018 as few welders can work with this rod. Note 7018 is very rod but not as you leaning to do stick welding

Dave



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smithdoor wrote:

Junior Welder wrote:Hello all,
I just joined this forum.
I have been doing some MIG welding for a little while and just purchased a ac/dc stick welder.
I will be wanting to weld mild steel. Can someone give me some recommendations on what electrodes, what sizes and how much to purchase? Also, is there a big difference between standard and premium electrodes?
Thanks!

P.S: Is jody on here?

Try 6013 1/8" I found most welders can do welding with this rod size and type

Do not try 7018 as few welders can work with this rod. Note 7018 is very rod but not as you leaning to do stick welding

Dave



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I actually learned on 7018 and have trouble running 6013.

I've heard people say 7018 is hard to run I just never understood why I think it's one of the easiest maybe people let them get damp I don't know ......if it's got slag drag!

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Mike Westbrook wrote:I've heard people say 7018 is hard to run I just never understood why I think it's one of the easiest maybe people let them get damp I don't know ......if it's got slag drag!

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I think a lot of it has to do with people running the cheaper 7018AC rods versus regular 7018. Those things are just horrible at being able to see the weld puddle. Slag everywhere! Awesome for tacks though because they restart super easy.

That makes sense I rarely use ac because DC is just so smoooooth

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Not even so much as AC vs DC, the rods are just a bit different. The regular Lincoln Excalibur's still run on AC, though both are still DC+/AC rods. The 7018AC rods just have a slightly thicker amount of a different type of flux. Filler is still the same, but something in the flux has Lincoln only recommending them for just tack welds and light fabrication.

I am not sure whether it is capable of 6010,6011. It is a miller two fifty twin. It doesn't say in the manual whether it can or not. Can I just stick one in the holder and try it?[/quote]

I don’t think Miller makes a ac / dc machine that won’t run 6010. What kind if welding fields are you interested in?

The miller 250 is a good machine. Since you're in 9th grade, don't go crazy buying rods in my opinion.

Decent choices available pretty much anywhere are 6010, 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018.

In truth, you can just buy 3/32" and 1/8" in 6011 and 7018 and be all set for the large majority of repairs and general fab.

But for your first practice sessions, one 5 lb or 10 lb box of any of them is not wrong.

Demented wrote: I actually learned on 7018 and have trouble running 6013.

keep in mind there is a very wide range of 6013 out there. i saw advertised a 6013 for pipeline root passes.
i have 6013rc which is harder to start than 7016.

Thanks for all the replies!
I ran some 7018 dc last night and found that it was easier to weld with than I thought.
Since the miller 250 doesn’t have a dig function, what can I do to help keep the rods from sticking? Would it help to get a clamp type electrode holder so that I don’t have to yank the rod so hard to get it unstuck? By the time I had gotten it unstuck, the flux had come off 1/2 the rod.
Thanks again!

Junior Welder wrote: what can I do to help keep the rods from sticking?

"set amps high enough that you don't stick when you hold a tight arc, then hold a tight arc"
one of jody's quotes.

tweake wrote:

Junior Welder wrote: what can I do to help keep the rods from sticking?

"set amps high enough that you don't stick when you hold a tight arc, then hold a tight arc"
one of jody's quotes.

Ok. I have heard that the diameter of an eletrode tells how much amps you need.
1/4 inch=250 amp
18/inch=125 amp
3/32=93 amp
Is this correct?

Junior Welder wrote:

tweake wrote:

Junior Welder wrote: what can I do to help keep the rods from sticking?

"set amps high enough that you don't stick when you hold a tight arc, then hold a tight arc"
one of jody's quotes.

Ok. I have heard that the diameter of an eletrode tells how much amps you need.
1/4 inch=250 amp
18/inch=125 amp
3/32=93 amp
Is this correct?

no.
simply because it depends a lot on what rod it is. eg cellulose rods typically run a lot less amps than a lot of other rods.
also it depends on size. some rods have iron in the flux so they are a bigger rod than their size says they are.

i simply go by whatever the manufacture recommends. a good manufacture will have listed how the rod runs and what amperage range to use it in. keep in mind its +/- depending on your machine as well.
eg all position, good downhill (uphill sucks) 80-110 amps. and i find on my machine 90 amps is getting to cold and 110 is good.

Junior Welder wrote:Thanks for all the replies!
I ran some 7018 dc last night and found that it was easier to weld with than I thought.
Since the miller 250 doesn’t have a dig function, what can I do to help keep the rods from sticking? Would it help to get a clamp type electrode holder so that I don’t have to yank the rod so hard to get it unstuck? By the time I had gotten it unstuck, the flux had come off 1/2 the rod.
Thanks again!

To not stick when lighting a rod, correct amperage and starting technique are the key.
To not stick while welding, usually turning up the amps fixes it.

For 7018: 3/32" 90 amps, 1/8" 125 amps are good starting points. Adjust up or down as needed.

For lighting the rod:
Depending where I'm trying to make the weld, a sharp (but not hard) tap of the rod on the plate will work.
Most often though I make a short, precise, quick, match striking motion.
You'll get the hang of it, takes time.

Partially burned 7018 rods have a little slag ball that cools on the tip. Makes re-strikes difficult.
Rub it on a brick, or pinch off with gloved hand, or a quick rub on a file and it'll light fine again.

Junior Welder wrote: I ran some 7018 dc last night and found that it was easier to weld with than I thought.

Here’s a picture: (keep in mind that it’s only my second time stick welding)

Thanks for the great explanation Minnesota Dave

Junior Welder wrote:Thanks for all the replies!
I ran some 7018 dc last night and found that it was easier to weld with than I thought.
Since the miller 250 doesn’t have a dig function, what can I do to help keep the rods from sticking? Would it help to get a clamp type electrode holder so that I don’t have to yank the rod so hard to get it unstuck? By the time I had gotten it unstuck, the flux had come off 1/2 the rod.
Thanks again!

That’s why you buy 10# containers. After the rod sticks that bad you just throw it away. Rod is cheap! Compared to the experience you will gain.

I've never thrown away a rod in my life. Minnesota Dave is a good man. His way works for him, but mine is slightly different. I sneak up on it with two hands. My off hand (gloved) grips the rod an inch or two from the tip. I sneak up on it. Rod tip is an onion skin thickness away when I get a little closer, and scratch. If it sticks at a time other than striking an arc, you need more amps.