Welding Tips and Tricks

Havent posted for a while. I`m using Lincoln 7018 welding rod and it is good, but i find , like others, that i`m always having to dry the rods first. Even if I keep them in the sealed container.
I have heard of other brands that are not so seseptible to moisture. (Note I`m not looking to bash Lincoln welding rods)
I`m just a hobbie welder and I`m not doing any structural work involving safety.

If it’s labeled 7018 then there won’t be much difference between brands. They will still weld, and be composed of the same materials and have the same vulnerabilities. This has to do to the ranges and engineering standards inforced to be able to call it a 7018. Perhaps you could expand on what you want to weld on. There are many different types of rods each having different features and purposes. No one size fits all. It’s just a mater of finding the right one for your project

What I have welded in the past are things like a boat trailer, table legs, porch railings. I have an inverter welder.
Many years ago I built a boat trailer using an arc welder, but cant remember the make or the rod I used. 6010 and 11 don`t work well with my machine. 6013 is a little messy. 7014 isint to bad. But I rely like the smoothness of the 7018. I guess Ill just have to dry the rods more often. I keep them in a sealed container, but it seems that after several months they still need drying.

I know exactly what you mean - 7018 rods are not all made the same & vary significantly in use & storage - being in the UK we don't have the same choices as across the pond - I once had some Lincoln 7018-1 no other name on them - Excaliber is not sold here so never had the chance to try what I have heard is about the best - those were alright if they had been stored correctly by the supplier but mostly they just sit around in any warehouse they have often exposed to the elements - if put in a rod oven & used soon after they weld fine but after less than a day become unusable - not just for code work - I mean they just suck water out of the air & go rusty - our normal choice is Esab 48.00 unitrode & that keeps well for years even if no longer suitable for code work - downside is rather thick flux - makes passing an overhead test piece harder - rod of choice is Filarc due to the thinner flux - that also keeps but is too expensive unless doing a test or critical part - I've welded with a lot of others - some better than others but they come & go as suppliers cut deals & try to screw a bit more profit - mostly don't have much choice unless paying a royal ransom for rods - most companies stay with Esab as it's consistent & reliable even if not the best - some will shop around for the cheapest they can get !

I've been very impressed with nWeld brand 7018 for intermittent usage. They seem to be very stable to moisture exposure and have, for me, produced the best welds on my inverter-based machine.

If you are getting porosity from 7018 rods fresh out of a hermetically sealed can, then you are running them incorrectly. They can't get any dryer than fresh out of a hermetically sealed can. You may be long arcing or other issues. Once you open the container then yes, it is a requirement to store them in a rod oven for code work. However, I have some old excalibur rods that have been out of the can for ages, as well as some tractor supply rods that came in a cardboard box. Neither have ever been in an oven and I can run both without any signs of porosity. So it makes me wonder if there is something wrong in your technique. No offense intended, but I don't think the rod oven makes them run that much better.

I'm with Louie on this. None of my 7018 has ever seen an oven, and it's all been unsealed for years, and runs fine and without porosity.

You ask which brand has the "least" porosity, but ALL of it should have NO porosity.

If you're getting porosity, something isn't right either with your welder or with your welding.

Thanks for the input guys. Its on and off with the welds. I`ve tried 7014 and its smooth. with 7018 I`ve tried a close tight arc with the stick dragging. One rod will give a good weld and then the next rod welds with pors. (think thats the spelling)I `m starting to think the machine is not consistent.
I have the pocket welder app and Lincoln app. followed both and the recomendation on the rod boxes. But again the 7014 welds fine. I`m in Ontario Canada our weather fluctuates between dry and wet all the time.
I`m going to try drying the rods one more time to see if that helps.
As for taking offence to the comments, No I view all as possitive input. I`m not a pro. and apreciate the help.

Louie1961 wrote:If you are getting porosity from 7018 rods fresh out of a hermetically sealed can, then you are running them incorrectly. They can't get any dryer than fresh out of a hermetically sealed can. You may be long arcing or other issues. Once you open the container then yes, it is a requirement to store them in a rod oven for code work. However, I have some old excalibur rods that have been out of the can for ages, as well as some tractor supply rods that came in a cardboard box. Neither have ever been in an oven and I can run both without any signs of porosity. So it makes me wonder if there is something wrong in your technique. No offense intended, but I don't think the rod oven makes them run that much better.

We get 7018-1 lincoln label H4R so they are not as sensitive to humidity, but the boxes are cardboard sealed in a plastic film. It is not an ideal container as you have in USA. (the rods do not appear differently on catalogs, maybe the excalibur is just a name they get in USA (BTW we also see Lincoln 7018, cheaper than7018-1, only rare dealers propose them)

I have been said I can dry them more than 10 times (300 hours max) but usually 30 min to one hour in a kitchen oven at 240celsius and they run nicely (if I feel them not as dry as I wish, but direct from a new box they are good)
Stored in sealed container then

I agree that porosity is due to bad manipulation probably. I had on the start before learning to start correctly

noddybrian wrote:I know exactly what you mean - 7018 rods are not all made the same & vary significantly in use & storage - being in the UK we don't have the same choices as across the pond - I once had some Lincoln 7018-1 no other name on them - Excaliber is not sold here so never had the chance to try what I have heard is about the best - those were alright if they had been stored correctly by the supplier but mostly they just sit around in any warehouse they have often exposed to the elements - if put in a rod oven & used soon after they weld fine but after less than a day become unusable - not just for code work - I mean they just suck water out of the air & go rusty - our normal choice is Esab 48.00 unitrode & that keeps well for years even if no longer suitable for code work - downside is rather thick flux - makes passing an overhead test piece harder - rod of choice is Filarc due to the thinner flux - that also keeps but is too expensive unless doing a test or critical part - I've welded with a lot of others - some better than others but they come & go as suppliers cut deals & try to screw a bit more profit - mostly don't have much choice unless paying a royal ransom for rods - most companies stay with Esab as it's consistent & reliable even if not the best - some will shop around for the cheapest they can get !

I don't understand : Lincoln 7018-1 are normal reliable rods and esab 48.00 may be a little better (and way more expensive).

If you keep those rods in oven for storage and portable oven on site there should be no problem at all.

48.00 now sold in sealed container, good for code 9 hours in 75% humidity (you may be experiencing more?)
BTW H4—R standard is that, good for 9 hours at 4mg hydrogen under 75%(may be 70%) HR.

BTW I have a drying table (temp and time) that shows that depending of the metal to be welded quality the cooking/drying time can differ.
Probably just showing that the less hydrogen we want the longer the drying time is ; (H8 2:00 at 300-350° ; H4 2h a -340-360°;

7016 are only one hour at 100-110°as rutile and rutilo cellulosic ( as soon there is cellulose the cooking temperature is under 120° to avoid degradation of the cellulose)

Danylo66 wrote:Havent posted for a while. I`m using Lincoln 7018 welding rod and it is good, but i find , like others, that i`m always having to dry the rods first. Even if I keep them in the sealed container.
I have heard of other brands that are not so seseptible to moisture. (Note I`m not looking to bash Lincoln welding rods)
I`m just a hobbie welder and I`m not doing any structural work involving safety.

out of curiosity, are they 7018 or 7018-1, and what are the specs written near the end H4R for instance
If only H4 they are more sensitive to heat, cheaper or older version
I use the 7018-1 which are among the less expensive rods in some places About 23€ VAt incl. for a 4,5 5 Kg pack.

And I have no problems with them, I worked on restarts and tie in using many of the 1/3 to 1/2 rod I had, and it was not that difficult. (not more than making a regular tie in with 7018)
I make a 25mm light "smoke trail" to begin 7018 (for a restart, making a small bit of bead with porosities along the main bead, then tie in and grind the extra little bead later.)

Ask for Excalubur 7018MR It's helps a lot with your scenario

Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL

Sorry miss spelt Antorcha.

Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL

Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .
They are easier to dry I think (there is some PTFE in the coating so the moisture do not go in as easily.)
ESAB 48.00 today have also that H4R designation, the PTFE used as a binder is may be dating 2011 as a new process.

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those nice sealed tubings or boxes for the US market.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1

olek wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL

Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1

Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

olek wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL

Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1

Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

Danylo66 wrote:

olek wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL

Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

Do you have some

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1

Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

what you mean "small" inverter ?

Do you have some 3/32 rods ? may be easier to begin with (and they ask less from the inverter)

I dont know for sure but if you do a real rod drying 3 hours the oven at its max (should be 300 350°celsius) then keep them sealed , eventually with some silicate bags too, I believe they should weld well out of the storage, and if not , half an hour or one hour in the oven may do it.

how much open current voltage do you have with your welder ? I seem to remind 58 60V open are necessary so the rod is keep lightening at all times

Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.

Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?

Lightning wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.

Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?

Hello, I did not see more than 662 F , I was given a nice big electrical oven (the minuter did not work) the thermometer inside it tells me 536 F
AT that level of temperatures the humidity goes out of the rods anyway,I think that if the oven (not a toaster ) gives yet 464 F adding one hour drying may suffice.

I have friends using 7018 simply kept in the driest place of the house, with a short drying eventually '30 min to one hour in the oven)

The cooling of the rods should be done soon in a sealed box , as a hot coating will attract moisture from the air soon.

The plastic tubing box used for electrodes when working outside, are rated for 221 F (105°celsius)

I do not believe the rods go from the oven to those boxes immediately, probably to a portable oven if available.

olek wrote:

Lightning wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.

Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?

Hello, I did not see more than 662 F , I was given a nice big electrical oven (the minuter did not work) the thermometer inside it tells me 536 F
AT that level of temperatures the humidity goes out of the rods anyway,I think that if the oven (not a toaster ) gives yet 464 F adding one hour drying may suffice.

I have friends using 7018 simply kept in the driest place of the house, with a short drying eventually '30 min to one hour in the oven)

The cooling of the rods should be done soon in a sealed box , as a hot coating will attract moisture from the air soon.

The plastic tubing box used for electrodes when working outside, are rated for 221 F (105°celsius)

I do not believe the rods go from the oven to those boxes immediately, probably to a portable oven if available.

Did some reading on the Lincoln electric Linc provided by Lightning. Then checked some other sites. I believe from what I have read that the heating procedures apply mainly to rods left outside of a storage container. I usually take the rods out of the package and emediatly place them into the plastic container. Now the rods that I use, are from a box store and I'm not sure if moisture affects them differently then the Excaliber rods. So basically I take them out of the container and go e them a pre heat in the small oven that I have. One thing that I did not do on damp days is heat up the part to be welded. Since my garage is damp, the metal seems to have moisture on it while welding. I think the best would be to take a welding course. But here in Ontario , I can't seem to find an affordable course. Most are geared to people wanting to get into welding as professional's.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

olek wrote:

Lightning wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.

Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?

Hello, I did not see more than 662 F , I was given a nice big electrical oven (the minuter did not work) the thermometer inside it tells me 536 F
AT that level of temperatures the humidity goes out of the rods anyway,I think that if the oven (not a toaster ) gives yet 464 F adding one hour drying may suffice.

I have friends using 7018 simply kept in the driest place of the house, with a short drying eventually '30 min to one hour in the oven)

The cooling of the rods should be done soon in a sealed box , as a hot coating will attract moisture from the air soon.

The plastic tubing box used for electrodes when working outside, are rated for 221 F (105°celsius)

I do not believe the rods go from the oven to those boxes immediately, probably to a portable oven if available.

Did some reading on the Lincoln electric Linc provided by Lightning. Then checked some other sites. I believe from what I have read that the heating procedures apply mainly to rods left outside of a storage container. I usually take the rods out of the package and emediatly place them into the plastic container. Now the rods that I use, are from a box store and I'm not sure if moisture affects them differently then the Excaliber rods. So basically I take them out of the container and go e them a pre heat in the small oven that I have. One thing that I did not do on damp days is heat up the part to be welded. Since my garage is damp, the metal seems to have moisture on it while welding. I think the best would be to take a welding course. But here in Ontario , I can't seem to find an affordable course. Most are geared to people wanting to get into welding as professional's.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

olek wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:

olek wrote:

Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

Do you have some

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1

Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

what you mean "small" inverter ?

Do you have some 3/32 rods ? may be easier to begin with (and they ask less from the inverter)

I dont know for sure but if you do a real rod drying 3 hours the oven at its max (should be 300 350°celsius) then keep them sealed , eventually with some silicate bags too, I believe they should weld well out of the storage, and if not , half an hour or one hour in the oven may do it.

how much open current voltage do you have with your welder ? I seem to remind 58 60V open are necessary so the rod is keep lightening at all times

Olek I have an Everlast 140 that's there smallest model. Unfortunatly the machine does not show voltage. Only amps. I have both 1/8 & 3/32 rods. I'm running between 60 and 100 amps. I have tested the machine with an amp clamp meter and it is off by approx 15 amps. So I have done a few tests with different settings. Again the rods are the basic home use type from what the conversations have led to. I'll be looking for an oven that will heat at higher ranges. I'm just surprised that the new rods that I bought, and stored in a rod holder would run strange after a few short weeks. Maybe over a month.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

olek wrote:

Danylo66 wrote:

olek wrote:

Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

Do you have some

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1

Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

what you mean "small" inverter ?

Do you have some 3/32 rods ? may be easier to begin with (and they ask less from the inverter)

I dont know for sure but if you do a real rod drying 3 hours the oven at its max (should be 300 350°celsius) then keep them sealed , eventually with some silicate bags too, I believe they should weld well out of the storage, and if not , half an hour or one hour in the oven may do it.

how much open current voltage do you have with your welder ? I seem to remind 58 60V open are necessary so the rod is keep lightening at all times

Olek I have an Everlast 140 that's there smallest model. Unfortunatly the machine does not show voltage. Only amps. I have both 1/8 & 3/32 rods. I'm running between 60 and 100 amps. I have tested the machine with an amp clamp meter and it is off by approx 15 amps. So I have done a few tests with different settings. Again the rods are the basic home use type from what the conversations have led to. I'll be looking for an oven that will heat at higher ranges. I'm just surprised that the new rods that I bought, and stored in a rod holder would run strange after a few short weeks. Maybe over a month.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

Hello, 100 A may be not enough for the 3/32 (going up I use 105 110A with 7018 rods)

Your welder if the actual model have 70v Ocv (open circuit voltage)
https://www.everlastgenerators.com/site ... 40ST_0.pdf
seem to have correct capacity for a small unit, even 6011 can be used thay say.

You are may be loosing amps because of the electrical circuitry ?
The kitchen oven do it OK , because the real cooking of those rods is to make code work,if you have less heat, dry longer, but what happen when you get your rods hot from the oven is that they attract the moisture of the air, so this is the moment to put them in a sealed box.

It is moderately humid here and I use Lincoln 7018 -1, as I said among the cheapest rods for about 23€ for the large packet of about 4,6 KG (and they are resistant to moisture at least somehow)

You may want to try your 3/32 rods at the max amp rate written on the box 90 100 A ?

The rod should go glowing red before the end may be the last third. If not your inverter is cheating .

To do so with the 1/8 you need 160A unless those are 6013 1/8 with a max allowed of 120A , so in that case use the max , again the rod should glow red before its end .

if you have not enough amps the 1/8 7018 will stick easily

The Open current level is written on the identification card of your welder



Regards