Welding Tips and Tricks

Hey I picked up some 3/32 rod and tried welding on aluminum, it reminds me of blowing jello through a straw and trying to make it look nice......

yes!!!! I got some laying around i can allways use it for twist ties or something! ho was the person that thought this is great idea

I've used some Forney Alum rods to weld my 36 in Aluminum pipe wrench back together when the handle broke this was before I got my mig, and I have to say ,they work ,couldn't use them on 1/8 sheet outside corner joint . but they held my pipe wrench together even with a cheater pipe, Won't ever need them again,still got 1 lb ,of them ,might use them in a pinch ,but not a great welding process , get a mig welder . good luck John

i remember seeing some pictures of aluminum tanks supposedly welded with stick then trying for days to get halfway acceptable results. too many years later i'm still trying with no success.

Hello. What chucke2009 trying to do it on YouTube hilarious.

My neighbor while I was growing up was the only person I've ever seen that could weld with a stick Aluminum rod and make it look nice. I'm not sure though if he was a wizard or a welder, because he could also weld pot metal and make it nice, maybe an Alchemist.

Len

Make / quality does vary - I tried some once & got about the same as Lanse did - but this one time I got asked to try & repair or patch some mower decks that were cast aluminum about 3/8" thick & I had no pure argon only mix - usually I had use of a Tig locally - but for once they were busy with it - the guy there gave me some rods - I never knew what brand they were - but considering the deck was old / corroded & boiled all sorts of things out when hot they actually welded OK - not prize winning - but I'd put my name to it ! I think 3/16" is about as thin as you'd want to try & the rods do not keep well for long - try to buy fresh stock & bake them before welding - they are bad for absorbing moisture even over an hour or 2.

That's the point where you go to real manufacturers for consumables.Lincoln !!! NO Hobart !!!
Eutectrode. Try some.

Coincidentally, I was discussing ALuminum SMAW with the boss today. I've never tried it.

We speculated whether it would run smoother on DCEN, like 7024.

Any thoughts, or experience?

Steve S

Otto Nobedder wrote:Coincidentally, I was discussing ALuminum SMAW with the boss today. I've never tried it.

We speculated whether it would run smoother on DCEN, like 7024.

Any thoughts, or experience?

Steve S

I've done it many years ago - it was a heavy chunk I needed to fix quick. I did not tig then.

Seemed to work better with a slight push, for me anyway. On drag the slag wanted to snuff it out while I was deep in the groove. If I would have punched up the amps it might have fixed the problem.

DCEP was the recommended polarity, I suspect for the cleaning action.

Rods need to be dry, the flux is hydroscopic.

Redry can be done, 2 hrs at 250F on one chart I saw.

Been thinking about trying it again actually. Must be getting bored

man, Dave, you must be really bored....

Ha! What can I say - I get bored easy

Otto Nobedder wrote:
We speculated whether it would run smoother on DCEN, like 7024.

Steve S

Oh and I forgot to add....7024, like 7014 and 6013 run smoother on AC

.....ok, I just like them better that way...lol

I will never run a 7024 an dcep, awful, they run amazing on dcen
My #1 way would be dcen, 5/32 7024 @ 175-180 amps, runs amazing....
My #2 way would be ac, 5/32 7024@ 200 amps, runs nice and fluid....
My #3 way would be dcep, 5/32 7024 @ 240-250 amps, the slag takes over....
Give it a try,
John

MinnesotaDave wrote:Oh and I forgot to add....7024, like 7014 and 6013 run smoother on AC

.....ok, I just like them better that way...lol

Dave I've been trying to tell my die-hard "DC only" buddies that AC trick now for a few years. My old-man welding mentor/guru/deity taught me to use AC on those rods 30 some years ago.

In fact, using a 7014 in the vertical down (3F or 3G) position is just plain Leonardo DeVinci beautiful! Looks better than a flat (1G) weld in my opinion. Really easy to master too.

As far as Al stick goes I say throw that shit in the trash can if you have a tig or even a mig that will run a spool gun. On to the 7014, its shit. I wouldnt run it for top dollar wages. If its not 7018 6010 70+80+ blah blah blah i want no part in it.

I stuck two pieces of pipe together it was unpleasant and wasn't pretty, stuck though.

Arizona SA200 wrote:On to the 7014, its shit.

You're right. It is DA SHIT! It welds up nicely, especially when I don't need to lay down a lot of metal from 7024's.

Every rod has a use.
Some better than others.
1cent,
~John

AKweldshop wrote:Every rod has a use.
Some better than others.
1cent,
~John

100% agree.

Here's just my own personal take on mild steel rods, because I use almost all types. Again, just my own opinions on how I use them:

6010/6011: welding through crap (rust, paint, zinc plating, wide gaps); when needing a deep penetrating weld for something more critical; or bridging a wide gap. I mostly use 6010's.

6013: welding sheet metal when a mig isn't available or when welding in the wind. Not good for anything else, but the thinnest of sheet metal. Also cosmetically good to cap an ugly 6010/6011.

7014: general fab rod for beautiful looking welds on something that is stationary and will not be susceptible to any "shock" load. I wouldn't use it for anything critical like trailers, vehicle frames etc....). It's perfect and absolutely better looking than any 7018 for shelving projects, hand railings, fences, work benches, patio furniture, etc... It's my general "go-to" electrode for most everything of a "non-critical" shock-load bearing weld. It penetrates no more or no less than 7018, it's just not as ductile. If the weld joint isn't susceptible to shearing forces, then 7014 is perfect and cosmetically looks superior to 7018's.

7018: for use where the object being welded (or weld joint) will sustain constant vibration, hammering shock or shearing load on it. ie trailer hitches, bumper builds, winch mounts, trailer frames, vehicle load ramps, farm equipment, plows, shovels, etc...

7024: just like 7014, but when I need a big "valley" or V-joint filled in and I don't feel like doing multiple passes, I go for the "Jet-Rod" every single time. I can lay Jet down faster than anyone with a mig gun. Gimme 5/32" Jet and I'll lay more metal down than a guy with .045 wire too.

7028: I have maybe 3 lbs of it in an oven and last time I used it was like 15-16 years ago. It sits in the oven and gets the heat treatment every time i light up that oven for 7018's. It was left overs from a job we did on a restored locomotive for a museum. I have no use for it, nor would I trust those rods for anything critical any longer. It's identical to 7024, but as strong as 7018. I've been meaning to burn them up, just for fun.

AKweldshop wrote:Every rod has a use.
Some better than others.
1cent,
~John

Yup, when you bend it in to a paint bucket hook, it works, although it isn't as good as other rod. Seriously, it may be a question of skill, I don't have.

AKweldshop wrote:Every rod has a use.
Some better than others.
1cent,
~John

Yup, when I paint the house I never can find a paint hook, when I spray paint small parts, want to check the depth of hydraulic oil in the dump truck, most any rod will do. Welding I'm a little more fussy.

In the days of deciding spool gun or TIG my friend handed me some electrode, he said push, turn up the heat, go like ****, And don't be fussy about appearance. I was embarrassed to put it in the scrap barrel! With all due respect, John I disagree.

I was saying steel rods.
I would never recommend aluminum rods, I don't know how that got out?
This topic turned into a regular welding rod thread, and I was saying every mild steel rod is useful, just some better than others in certain applications....
Bill,
Are you referring to aluminum stick rods in your last post????

~John

AKweldshop wrote:I was saying steel rods.
I would never recommend aluminum rods, I don't know how that got out?
This topic turned into a regular welding rod thread, and I was saying every mild steel rod is useful, just some better than others in certain applications....
Bill,
Are you referring to aluminum stick rods in your last post????

~John

I was.

I recently talked to a truck driver who's job in the Army was repairing armor on tanks. He tells me the armor on the tanks he worked on was aluminum. I'm guessing it absorbs energy, and heat is quickly dissipated, but that's a guess. They would use a series of hole saws to bore several inches deep, giving enough clearance for a mig gun. They cut a plug much smaller than the hole and welded it in place. He said they could more easily just weld the hole full but as it cooled there would be a loud bang, as it cracked.

They used Aluminum Stick welding rods???

AKweldshop wrote:They used Aluminum Stick welding rods???

A specially shaped MIG gun. I think if stick were a viable choice, it might fit in a deep joint better, did they try it? I don't know.