[av8r]

I was given a Power-Kraft 180 AC welder sold by Mongomery Wards that came from my wife's family farm. The welder came with the operators manual which was printed in 1961. The welder also came with a set of electrodes (Sears) that looked to include the equivalent of E6011, drag rod, hard-surfacing and cast iron (no AWS numbers). I learned to weld on a Lincoln Electric Invertec 350 Pro and was not optimistic that I would appreciate this machine. To my surprise and delight, the old machine and old rod worked well. I used the old rod with the 350 Pro to see how it behaved. After sitting around for so long, I was surprised that the system worked so well. I really like the 300A Lincoln stinger it has; it may not be the original. Now I thinking of attempting to build a rectifier as a project. My welding instructor advises that a used Lincoln 225 AC/DC would probably be cheaper but this is a project. I have heard that the Power-Kraft welders were built by Century. However, it has an identical appearance to the Lincoln "tombstone" welder including the triangular grip handles at the top/rear of the cabinet. Any history to share about the Power-Kraft 180?
Regards
AV8R

[rickbreeezy]

Never heard of them myself, what is a "rectifier"?

[av8r]

A rectifier converts AC to DC. Usually this is done with diodes. A full-wave rectifier uses four diodes. The most common everyday use is in an automobile battery charger. An inverter also converts AC to DC and uses diodes as well as transistorized electromechanical switches. I don't know why but the inverter welders have much smaller transformers.

[Otto Nobedder]

Hey, av8r,

You actually a pilot?

My email address includes "av8r". I include the airport designator where I learned to fly.

Steve

[kermdawg]

av8r-Ive been looking into building a rectifier for my (now dead) lincoln ac225. You can buy a kit for 200 bucks, or you can buy the parts for about 100 or so. I decided against it myself, deciding on just buying a new welder. But I can understand the desire for a project

Im really surprised the old rods worked, but not the machine. I got a magazine with an old beat up 1921 hillbillly custom car that runs like a champ-original motor and all. If you take care of them old machines, they'll last forever. Thats a nod to the American craftsmanship of the old days, when things were built here in America, with quality parts, and work done by quality craftsmen.

[av8r]

I was an Air Force pilot. Now, I'm a recreational pilot. I hold a commercial MEL/SEL Inst. I don't own an airplane but I have been intrigued by the LSA category. I am also retired from industry so I theoretically could have the time for a building project.

[Otto Nobedder]

I was an Air Force pilot. Now, I'm a recreational pilot. I hold a commercial MEL/SEL Inst. I don't own an airplane but I have been intrigued by the LSA category. I am also retired from industry so I theoretically could have the time for a building project.

I'm sitting on two sets of plans, one tube-and-fabric, the other wood-and-fabric. Either can be built as LSA or Part 103, depending mainly on engine choice. I don't have the time or space to build either at this stage of life.

If a building project interests you, it makes an awesome (though time consuming) hobby. The right project will put your welding skills to the test, as well. I assume you're familiar with the EAA and www.eaa.org ?

Steve

[av8r]

Steve,
I've been a member of the EAA since around 1980. I often go to the Oshkosh Fly In. I have stopped by the Oshkosh welding booths to try my hand at oxy/fuel welding of tubing. I started taking welding classes for two reasons. My father-in-law gave me a Power-Kraft 180 that intimidated me and I had a couple of welds to make on my 1973 Corvette that was preventing getting it back on the road. Since then, I've gotten "hooked" on the art and skill of welding and I regularly attend welding classes. I am focusing my learning effort on GTAW of steel right now. That would probably be the preferred process for welding an airframe. I have not tried AC-GTAW with aluminum yet but I would like to get marginally proficient at that for the application to home fixit projects and the Corvette. To my surprise, I actually have been able to solder aluminum trim pieces fairly well.
Ken

[Otto Nobedder]

Ken,

You are correct, despite the opinions of some "old-school-er"s, TIG has become the method of choice. It creates a much smaller HAZ, and with back-purging, the inside of your weld will be as solid (and almost as pretty) as the outside. I've seen a lot of conflicting information about post-weld heat treatment on 4130 TIG welds, though. I read an article (which I've lost, so can't cite it) suggesting that ER80-S02 was an excellent filler for 4130 TIG, because it is more forgiving than 4130 filler with nearly identical properties. Apparently, in a tightly fit weld, the small amount of filler "blends" with the parent metal and produces a nearly uniform alloy.

Aluminum is easier to weld than the stories make it sound. There are two keys: Clean, clean, and clean again. The heat will accumulate rapidly, despite Al's conductivity, so as you continue the weld, you'll be backing off on the power. As you reach the end, and in particular an edge, be prepared to drop off the power quickly.

I hope you develop the confidence in your skills to take on a building project, and fly it to Oshkosh!

Steve