Welding Tips and Tricks

So in preparation for welding school and a future in welding I bought my first welder an Everlast PowerArc 200ST. I have been having some problems getting it to run 6010 right I have tried three different brands of rods and it seems like it is running them to hot I have to turn it way down or else I get about 2/3 of the way through a rod and the rod gets so hot it starts burning the flux on the rod and then the arc and weld is crap after that, to get them to run with out cooking the flux 3/32 I have to set at 50-55amps and 1/8 around 65-70amps which seems low to me based on everything I have and what the box of electrodes say the range should be. Something else I noticed while running 6010 is the the rod and stinger vibrate while welding and that does not happen on 7018 and I thought maybe that is some clue to if something is wrong with my machine? Also when I turn the amps all the way down it actually goes down to 17amps the minimum rated amps for my machine is 20amps, but it does top out at 200amps as it is supposed to.

Every machine will vary between what it says its giving you and what your actually getting for amps. Being hot or cold by 10 amps is not uncommon. Doesn't mean there's anything wrong, just that it's not calibrated.

Hello, the U0 voltage that is necessary for cellulosic rods is I believe 108v

(my welder 200A have 2 models, one with 108V - CEL model- and another with 96V UO)

After further checking it seem that my welder is giving a particularly high range of voltage, other models are way lower , around 70 80 V is common, so what is the advantage ? They say for intensive use of 6010 , but I dont understand

On the Everlast there is a specific connector for the 6010, I suppose you used it . the voltage given on yours seem to be 74V, surprised me

But does that initial voltage have an impact later when welding ? I thought for instance that it may happen during welding that the arc disrupt a millisecond and need then that strong voltage to be restarted (???)

May be your electrical installation have not enough power (AMPS) seem to be that 40A are needed

a PFC (Power Factor Correction ) circuitry is needed to obtain welders that can work with a basic 16Amp electrical outlet (domestic type) MOSFET cicuit for older design types, may also allow to work with less amp from the outlet.


ALso if you use a too thin electrical cable you loose amps

Just ideas


PS Cool 5 years guarantee on your welder, here 2 years only on pro series (about 600 euros minimum for stick only) all others have a one year guarantee


excuse my english please

Regards

Well I have mine hooked up to a 50amp circuit and am using the factory plug and leads on the welder so I hope that is not the problem. I am using the 6010 port for my ground when welding with 6010 as it is meant to. As Poland308 said it is probably not calibrated and for that matter neither am I haha I am a total novice at this so there could be any number of things I am doing wrong. I sent a message to Everlast inquiring on this same topic and unless they tell me to send my machine in I will just keep practicing and playing with the amps and trying to get better.

Beardly47 wrote:Well I have mine hooked up to a 50amp circuit and am using the factory plug and leads on the welder so I hope that is not the problem. I am using the 6010 port for my ground when welding with 6010 as it is meant to. As Poland308 said it is probably not calibrated and for that matter neither am I haha I am a total novice at this so there could be any number of things I am doing wrong. I sent a message to Everlast inquiring on this same topic and unless they tell me to send my machine in I will just keep practicing and playing with the amps and trying to get better.

Hello

SO you are doing everything correctly . did you try both polarities ? Electrode negative is sending less heat onto the electrode and is used by some to have a quieter arc for root pass

WIth electrode positive (probably what you do) 70% of the heat goes to the electrode, that one burns more rapidly, the puddle is a little larger and the arc moves more - theoretically .

But you are right, if you are new to this , just mastering the arc and rod makes an enormous difference

Beginners often use 6013 (In my country this is standard) as they are very forgiving and the arc is quiet (electrode negative)
When really mastered 7018 are worked (they are less easy to start and the coverage is very fragile so economically it is not so interesting to learn with them, you will put a lot of them to dump because the coverage have cracked and felt.

No reason not to use the 6010 but they prefer a high voltage for starting, and I was said the high voltage (100V ) hesps to have a more stable arc

Experience may compensate for that if your welder is little undersized.

So we are back at what I said above . I suggest you buy Lincoln 46 6013 (rutile) electrodes, they are good and not expensive
the 7018-1 Lincoln (basic) are about the same price .

There are plenty of electrodes that have a part of cellulose while being 7018 type , they may be stronger and easier to use (I think those are 7016 , but I am unsure)

Also the 6013 when allowing descending do contain some cellulose in the coating.

Best regards and good learning. Welding is fascinating and I have much pleasure learning, despite some frustrations when no mentor at hand.

My 200st was acting up one time and I finally noticed I had the switch fliped to tig. Hard to weld right wit the switch on tig.
Tom