Welding Tips and Tricks

most of the machines where i work are made of stainless steel. when me and the other maintenance guys have to modify the equipement on the floor, our lincoln idealarc 250 is the easiest to get out there. i set the amperage on about 75, and the polarity is on DCEP. i am welding a vertical fillet weld and my slag runs bad and my weld looks like piss. could you help me out please

Robbee

YOU SHOULD DO ACEP, AND YOU SHOULD BE FINE.

ALSO IF YOU CAN CONSTANT CURRENT EP. WILL BE BETTER.
ALSO MAYBE YOU SHOULD TRY ABOUT 90 AMPS


TELL ME IF IT WORK
BLUE BLOOD

wow! start with, don't listen to that advice. theres no such thing as ACEP. that would be alternating current electrode positive, you can't have alternating current and electrode positive at the same time. hence the term alternating. 75 amps with any 3/32 stainless stick rod is hot, expecially vertical. my advice would be turn your amperage down.

I THINK I SHOULD TRY IT MYSELF, AND SORRY FOR PUTTING ACEP SORRY ITS AC ONLY

BUT REMEBER THAT AC HALF THE TIME OF THE 60 HZ ITS OFF, HENCE A COLDER WELD. AND WHAT ABOUT PENETRATION DO YOU SPECIALLY NEED IT OR NOT, CORRECT PARAMETER ITS BETWEEN 60 AND 90 AMPS. FOR 3/32 308 STAINLESS.

the amperage range for most 308 3/32 rods is 45 to 80. you say 60 to 90 amps which is ok. but why would you recommend the highest of the rods amperage range for vertical up welding. I would go on the lower side of the amperage range which you say is 60 to 90, lower end being less than what he was set at, 75amps. As for welding on AC, you first have to find an AC 308 rod. Personally I have never seen one. Don't know if they are made or not. Any AC rod has a stabilizer added in the flux to maintain the arc as the current passes through zero.

I agree with brian...
I just finished running 3/32 308 rods in class and never went as high 75 and not on ac.

thanks for the advice. the next time i have to stick weld using stainless rods at work i will try all these tips to see if it looks any better. if any of you have any other tips id appreciate it

Chema Cardenas

Where are you located? I think this could be the reason some of your opinions are a little differant, differant countries differant standards??

Jonathan

another tip is to change polarity to dcen the arc is more stable and you dont get the flowing effect and always remember dont pay any attention to how the slag flows just focus on the weld. we use this process to weld ss pipe in petro- chem. plants when purging is too costly an option on complicated runs of pipe with o x-ray problems

if your running a weave, turn your amps down, if running stringers you can raise them a bit. use reverse polarity. if your running a weave and notice your rod getting real hot or your slad is looking real drippy, pull back and stop, then restart after the slag starts to cool a bit. another thing is try and get some lincoln 308-16V rod. the v stands for vertical and runs simular to 7018. just watch out for the slag when it cools, mostly when you have your hood up. the shit pops off like a missile and always seems to find your neck or face. good luck

good luck with the stainless vertical weld. i've been welding for around forty years and am now working as a maint. welder in a large prison complex. whenever i have to do kitchen or laundry repairs it's usually on stainless of an un-known type. it's old and banged up from years of neglect and severe (and i mean severe!) abuse. lincoln stainweld 310-16 is excellent for welding vertical (up with stainless always!). this rod runs on ac or reverse (Electrode-pos.) polarity, i use reverse. 309 is good also but i prefer 310. it's what i always use for welding stainless to regular hot rolled steel. when vertical welding start with the lower half of the recommended range (on a scrap piece if possible). one other thing, always wear safety glasses or a flip up shield when welding stainless cause the slag flies (flys?) when it cools and always seems to hit you in the eye or similar sensitive spot. oh yeah, stringers only!