One1 wrote:I have a different issue with 7018 vert, or maybe the same who knows..... i can run it weave like I’ve been doing it all my life, but I can’t do stringers. I know and understand that I’m building a weld puddle onto itself, but just don’t seem to have a technique that works. When I’m weaving I’m stacking on top of a puddle that has hardened and it’s fine. When doing a stringer you have to find a way to cool it so you can build on it. Totally understand all that, but have yet to master it. The only way I’ve successfully did it is to pull up and drop back down. The split second gives the puddle just enough time to start cooling. Never looks as good as i think it should though.
I've found that stringers are much easier at higher amps than you typically use with weaves.
I do not go up and down. One straight motion while watching the width stay the same.
Works good for horizontal too.
Try increasing amps 5 to 10 at a time until you find a comfortable travel speed.
Dave J.
Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~
Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
One1 wrote:I have a different issue with 7018 vert, or maybe the same who knows..... i can run it weave like I’ve been doing it all my life, but I can’t do stringers. I know and understand that I’m building a weld puddle onto itself, but just don’t seem to have a technique that works. When I’m weaving I’m stacking on top of a puddle that has hardened and it’s fine. When doing a stringer you have to find a way to cool it so you can build on it. Totally understand all that, but have yet to master it. The only way I’ve successfully did it is to pull up and drop back down. The split second gives the puddle just enough time to start cooling. Never looks as good as i think it should though.
I've found that stringers are much easier at higher amps than you typically use with weaves.
I do not go up and down. One straight motion while watching the width stay the same.
Works good for horizontal too.
Try increasing amps 5 to 10 at a time until you find a comfortable travel speed.
Yup higher amps tends to flatten out the bead profile. Making it easier to build on.
rod angle needs to be 0-15 degrees try running at a lower amperage (112), Personally I prefer a weave bead when doing vertical it speeds the process up especially in the field when you need to get more done. do a slight oscillation (zig zag side to side movement) and keep a count in your head as youre going. i would hold my corners one Mississippi (left) two Mississippi (right) while moving quickly from side to side so you dont trap slag. it just takes practice of going from left to right and back to the left before progressing upward. milscale and paint are a factor in the field so most people run at 120 i personally dont like running hot gravity takes over and it doesnt look as pretty.
