[FireKracker50]

I just purchased an Everlast 256SI primarily for the Tig function. But until I get a bottle of argon i wanted to get started practicing stick welding. I bought 5# of Lincoln 6011 3/32" rods and so far I have ran about 10 sticks.
Trying from 50-80amps. And from 0-100% dig. On 1/4" angle iron.
Best results I think r coming around 70amps and 50% dig. But this is the first time I've ever stick welded so I don't know exactly what it should feel like. At lower amperages I feel like the steel is getting too hot. And higher amperage I feel like I'm too rushed. I also feel like it's pretty easy to snuff out the arc while trying to hold a tight arc. But if I crank the dig up to about 75+ I blow out the edges of the steel really easily.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a good starting point for settings, or am I pretty close. I just don't want to developer bad habits due to trying to compensate for poor settings on my welder.

[Poland308]

Those settings are real close. Should just be a matter of practice now.

[cj737]

You shouldn't really need the DIG function except for overhead welding, maybe some vertical uphill. A tight arc is always best with stick, you should "almost" feel the base metal. 60xx series rods burn off very quickly with a high deposition rate. It might be easier to practice with 7018 rods. For 1/4" metal, you'll need to move along pretty fast an probably want to quench periodically so as to avoid cooking the base metal.

Rod angle is also very important. As close to 90* to your welding line, maybe a slight lean ahead. Jody has numerous very good videos on Stick welding on his YouTube channel as well.

[FireKracker50]

Thank you all for advice. As far as Jody's videos. I have been watching them for months now every night. It's about the only thing I use my TV for, lol.
I watched for a second time his 6011 video, and the one about stick rods, and I think there was a third one I found also call something like sometimes stick is better. He was using 1/8" rods at 120-140 amps but didn't mention dig settings. I think he was using a Lincoln buzzbox so it didn't have dig.
I noticed the back on the plate was puddling on a couple of my passes. I think due to me not moving along fast enough. I would quench every two passes.

Are there any other specific videos you would recommend?
Also for stick and Tig what reference material would u recommend?
I'm thinking about buying the "Metals and how to weld them" and smaw techniques book from Lincoln's website. I wanted the student kit everyone always talks about for $25. But apparently they don't sell it anymore.

[Mike]

Welcome...

[ryanjames170]

Thank you all for advice. As far as Jody's videos. I have been watching them for months now every night. It's about the only thing I use my TV for, lol.
I watched for a second time his 6011 video, and the one about stick rods, and I think there was a third one I found also call something like sometimes stick is better. He was using 1/8" rods at 120-140 amps but didn't mention dig settings. I think he was using a Lincoln buzzbox so it didn't have dig.
I noticed the back on the plate was puddling on a couple of my passes. I think due to me not moving along fast enough. I would quench every two passes.

Are there any other specific videos you would recommend?
Also for stick and Tig what reference material would u recommend?
I'm thinking about buying the "Metals and how to weld them" and smaw techniques book from Lincoln's website. I wanted the student kit everyone always talks about for $25. But apparently they don't sell it anymore.

Get the Hobart pocket welding guide. also dont be afrade to get yourself a notebook and start jotting down stuff..
also this will help too http://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/g ... /c2410.pdf

biggest thing i can say is get your self some more 6011, 6013 a little 7014 and 7018

try out the 6013 before u do the two E70XX rods..

[FireKracker50]

So I have been burning through allot of electrodes. Feel like i have learned allot about how the different electrodes run.
I have 3/32 Lincoln Fleetweld 180 6011, 3/32 Lincoln Fleetweld 37 6013, 3/32" Weldcote 7018, and 1/8" Hobart 7018.

The 1/8" 7018 is easy as can be to run and come out smooth as silk. I can run 30% dig and 105-140amps depending on base metal. Most often just dragging the flux along the base metal produced the cleanest results. Occasionally a little side to side, cursive e, or a weave pattern will produce some nice welds as well. Slag comes off in a few rakes. Overall great success.

The 3/32" 6011 is allot harder to run and VERY hard to get a pretty looking run. I have tried every technique i have read or seen in videos. The stick instantly and every time on any contact. I cant scrape plate with flux like 7018. And its hard to hold a tight arc till i hit 70-75amps but then the slag is really burnt up and hard to get off. At 75-85 amps about half way through running the 12" rod, the rod with catch fire and start flaming the entire length of the rod. At that point it wont run for squad and you have to throw away the rest of the rod. I am mostly running them between 65-70amps and 70% Dig. I have to start them with a long sweeping motion the long arc back to starting point. Much longer of a strike than say a match or with the 7018. My best success for a nice bead is coming with cursive e pattern. Whip and pause is OK but i have limited success with it. I have tried vertical uphill open root on 1/4" plate with it. Now that was a challenge. But after several attempts i was able to complete one with a loose 1/16" gap and 1/16" land.

The 3/32" 6013 i could train a monkey to run. From 30-90 amps with 0-50% dig it will run. You can drag it, whip it, write your name with it. It doesn't matter it just runs. Less than 30amps and you get little globs and slag entrapment. Over 80 and it splatters bad. Over 90 and the rod sprays off and you cant keep it consistent, also the rod catches on fire and flames up.

I have yet to try the 3/32" 7018 Weldcote. Its hermetically sealed. I am trying to think of a good project for it before i open it as i dont have a rod over. I dont keep the 1/8" 7018 in a rod oven but im not doing any critical applications so im not worried about it.

6011 3G Open Root Vert Uphill, slag inclusion, but this was first attempt that i did it with success.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... k5udmdaQmc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... 0NEVGEzOFU

7018 Weave
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... mIyRjNDVGM

7018 2F
Cursive e
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... VlFU2hqR1k
Half Whip and Pause Half Cursive e
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... DU1VGJ5QVk

6011 2F
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... 19ENEgtajg

7018 single tree repair
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... XF6TDVaZUE

Trying to learn TIG as well.
Outside corner Vertical Up
1/4" Plate, 150Amps, 3/32" 2% Lanthanated, 3/32" ER70S-6
Should have used more filler and more heat i think...
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... zZhQ3MwazA

Thin metal hinges onto my box
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... HF4YlU5UGs

Making a 3rd hand
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... U42U3Q5Tkk
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... WhhazFDZlU

Made a Skeleton hand tig torch holder
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... mJpb3FqeDA
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... GxHRmZLMDg
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... S1JSlBaWTQ

First attempt at Aluminum
Unknown grade of plate. Cut in half and did flat butt weld.
3/32" 2% Lanthanated, 3/32" 4043, 120Hz, 30%ish cleaning
I've done more since then and getting better at it. But still not great.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... FdGYXk0UnM

Attempted razor blades, heat built up too fast i didn't move fast enough and didn't let out on the pedal fast enough. I didn't have a chill block either. It was sitting on 1/8"x6"x6" steel plate.
1/16" 2% Lanthanated, 1/16" ER70S-6
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... GUzRVhyd3M


Im sorry i cant figure out how to get pictures to work. So i just added links.
Pretty sad i couldn't get it to work considering im an electrical engineer with about 15years of programming experience, lol
The pics are in google drive. I may have to move them to photobucket to post them here.

[FireKracker50]

Get the Hobart pocket welding guide. also dont be afrade to get yourself a notebook and start jotting down stuff..
also this will help too http://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/g ... /c2410.pdf

biggest thing i can say is get your self some more 6011, 6013 a little 7014 and 7018

try out the 6013 before u do the two E70XX rods..

That is an interesting pdf. I like that. I'll dig deeper into it when i get home from work.
I have the Hobart app on my phone.
I wish the sharemyweld app was available for Android

[burnttoast]

Hello, I'm a new welder myself, and trying to teach myself how to weld. I have a 225ac Lincoln tombstone and use 6013 and 6011's for welding. when I have metal that has some contaminants like paint and rust that I can't get cleaned real good I use the 6011 rods because they're a deeper penetrating rod. I've found from personal experience that I have to make a conscious effort to make sure I have the correct arc gap, otherwise the rod will stick. with 6013 rods I can get the rod closer without it sticking as much. the 6011 rods doesn't produce much slag compared to the 6013's. when I first started using the 6011 rods it was a very frustrating experience compared to the 6013's. but, with constant practice you'll get the hang of it. I use it on 75 amp's on 1/4 metal stock without any problems.

[FireKracker50]

I don't have AC stick on my machine. Only AC tig.
I purchased 6011 because i heard they run better on inverter machines than the 6010.
I think i may get a box of 6010 and try them.
The 6011 definitely penetrates better and will weld through paint and rust allot better than 6013. I really dont have any use for the 6013. I was just at a local tool store and they had 5# 3/32" 6013 on clearance for $3.50 So i bought a box.
But since then i have used it to fill holes. I have patched a hole in a 50gal barrel and a few other little projects. I can burn them all the way down at 40-45amps and it wont burn back the thin metal and i can work it around the edges until the hole is completely filled in.

Does anyone see anything that jumps right out at them, from looking at my welds, that i need to focus on practicing?
I'm trying to focus on limiting undercut and rate of travel. As you can see in some of my welds i am moving a little too quickly with the 7018 and then i slow down and correct it.

[Artie F. Emm]

Welcome, FireKracker50!

>>"The 3/32" 6011 is allot harder to run and VERY hard to get a pretty looking run"
6011 is a "fast freeze" rod and results in a rougher looking weld.

>>"I think i may get a box of 6010 and try them."
Inverters don't run 6010 rods well, unless they are specifically designed with a specific 6010 port to jack the lead into. Not sure if your Everlast has the 6010 port- not all of them have it- so you may get frustrating results.

Good on ya for getting into stick welding!

[cj737]

7018 Weave
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... mIyRjNDVGM
This looks pretty good to me, though I don't know why you'd weave with a 7018?

7018 2F
Cursive e
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... VlFU2hqR1k
looks well laid in to me

Half Whip and Pause Half Cursive e
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... DU1VGJ5QVk
I don't "whip" 7018 rods. I lay them in and burn them. I leave the whip for 60xx

7018 single tree repair
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... XF6TDVaZUE
I see a lot of weld, as long as you feel confident you don't have voids below, it looks good.

Trying to learn TIG as well.
Outside corner Vertical Up
1/4" Plate, 150Amps, 3/32" 2% Lanthanated, 3/32" ER70S-6
Should have used more filler and more heat i think...
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... zZhQ3MwazA
You say this was welded uphill? It looks like downhill to me from the direction of the freeze lines. My opinion is that whenever you weld downhill with TIG, penetration is at risk because you're asking the puddle to defy gravity. When I do TIG downhill on thick metal, I feed the rod from behind the torch, and pull it forward, step back, feed, pull forward. Kind of the opposite of aluminum feeding.

First attempt at Aluminum
Unknown grade of plate. Cut in half and did flat butt weld.
3/32" 2% Lanthanated, 3/32" 4043, 120Hz, 30%ish cleaning
I've done more since then and getting better at it. But still not great.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... FdGYXk0UnM
You don't indicate thickness of plate or amps used, so the only comment I can make is, for a first try, you did well. Try traveling farther and dabbing less. Equal travel distance to rod diameter is my rule of thumb.
There's a trick you can also try to employ: if you use a pyrex cup, you can see better. But when you add filler and move forward, you will notice the puddle sort of "suck in or recede". Thats when you know you've gotten the penetration you seek and its time to add wire and travel again.

Attempted razor blades, heat built up too fast i didn't move fast enough and didn't let out on the pedal fast enough. I didn't have a chill block either. It was sitting on 1/8"x6"x6" steel plate.
1/16" 2% Lanthanated, 1/16" ER70S-6
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... GUzRVhyd3M
I didn't even bother to look. I will simply say, Bravo for trying regardless of your success!

[FireKracker50]

Thanks for all the great feedback.
The box was tig welded together before the lid and hinges were welded on. So when i was welding the outside corner joints it was sitting with the lid side down flat on the plate. So when i welded the joint it was 180deg from the way it is sitting in the picture.

I was using a #6 alumina cup when i did the aluminum. I dont have pyrex cups or gas lenses...yet!
I want to get some stubby gas lens setups, and maybe pyrex cups down the road.

I will be trying the razor blades again soon. I think i can make it happen next try... or maybe 10 more tries.