[rahtreelimbs]

For someone such as myself who stick welds occasionally but still wants good results I am looking for advice on possibly two welding rods to use. I have primarily inverter machines. I am thinking 6011 and 7014 might be the way to go. 7018 would be in there but for the frequency that I stick weld I have concerns about dampness with the 7018 rods. Any help is appreciated.

[Farmwelding]

6011 is usually the more versatile and stronger electrode. A 7014 rod is more of a "beginners" rod for the guy that has a 110 volt 60 amp cheap welder that has a repair a year. Overall, I'd go 6011 rods especially with its ability to get deep penetration and being able to weld anything on the metal (rust, mill scale).

[Coldman]

Beg to differ. 6011 is a 60,000psi rod, 7014 is a 70,000psi rod which makes it the stronger rod.
7014 is a seriously handy rod for general non-code fab work and should not be discounted.

[DLewis0289]

Coldman is correct.......First two number is pounds per square inch tensile strengh 70XX, Next number is position XX1X (all positions), last is flux XXX8 (Low Hydrogen) And all the E in front means if it has one is "Electrode" lol

[eLuke455]

I don't feel qualfied to answer as I am a newbie welder, but since I fit the same category as you I thought I would add my two cents. I've been practicing with a few different rods for the last few months, and my rod of choice is 7014.

I am going to build a BBQ/smoker out of recycled gas bottles and mild steel, so I am focused on quality welds on thin material (2mm to 4mm thick). Most of my practising is on 25mm SHS that is 2.5mm thick. I'm doing T-Welds with 25mm mild steel flat, also 2.5mm thick. I purchased some 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018 rods in 2.5mm size and spent a week (elapsed) on each doing a few hours a night playing with all sorts of settings, speeds, angles, as per all of the great advise on this forum.

For me, I found 7014 to be the pick of the bunch. However, I am not rushed for time, and I am cleaning all surfaces to bright metal before welding. With more experimenting, I am sure I could find better technique/settings for the other rods, and in different conditions (rusted, thicker material), it sounds like other rods would have an advantage. But since I've settled for now on challanging myself to do a nice looking welding on thin mild steel for non structual/critical (although some here might argue that good BBQ is a critical thing), I'll be sticking to 7014 based on my (limited) experience.

Cheers

[MinnesotaDave]

I like both of those rods - 7014 are really nice to work with.
6011 run very predictably in any position and dig in when required.

7014 in larger sizes throw down big welds awesome on AC too.

AWS chart to consider:

electrode selection chart.jpg (56.46 KiB) Viewed 9006 times

[DLewis0289]

If you are an occasional welder and want to get down to one rod, my vote would be 7018-3/32

[jroark]

+1 on the 7018 3/32"

[Louie1961]

I keep two rods primarily: 6011 and 7018, despite not having a rod oven. 7018 improperly stored cant be any worse that 7014 for strength and I like they way it runs a bit better than 7014. Nothing wrong with 7014 however, and Jody has done a couple of bumper projects with it that were featured in videos. If I have a critical project I can pick up a fresh unopened can of 7018

[Otto Nobedder]

For storing low-hydrogen rods like 7018 at home, I'd suggest making a PVC tube with a thread fitting and plug, toss a few of these in it,
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stack-On-Safe ... k/14707415
and using teflon tape on the threads (better seal, easier removal).

You can also buy a pre-made plastic storage container with o-ring, and use the same dessicant, but I find the PVC more reliable for long-term storage. Most plastics allow some moisture to migrate through over time, and PVC resists this well for the price.

That said, I rather like 6010/11 and even 6013 for dirty/rusty/painted metal, and find that 7014 runs very nicely on clean metal. I prefer 7018, but the difference for non-code work is not significant. The occasional repair or hobbyist welder will usually find the 7014 easier to use, as it's more forgiving for someone who's not welding every day.

Steve S

[grafted]

I would go with the guys that said 7018 3/32 , this is a hard rod to beat and I would also include 6011 in both 1/8 and 3/32.
Many times I use a 6011 and cap it with 7018 and you get the best properties of both rods.
Tom

[xryan]

You can cover just about 99% of your welding with 6011 & 7018. If you're not welding oil pipelines or bridges don't worry about storing rod in an oven. Buy 5lb boxes. Throw leftovers & some dessicant in a rod holder with a rubber gasket, or make your own with PVC pipe. If you're really worried, dry them out in her oven when she's not looking before using.

[AKweldshop]

7018 80% of the time, 6010/7024 the other 20%.


IMO

[Grburns09]

I am a beginner/hobbyist and I like 7014 a lot. Specifically, I buy Pinnacle Alloys 7014, 3/32" from my local welding supply store. I have tried Linciln's Fleetweld 47, but I like the Pinnacle rod better. It runs great on AC, but I just got a DC welder, and it runs even better on DCEP.

I have tried 7018, but I don't have an oven, and I usually get visible pinholes at the start of the weld. So it's 7014 for me!

[Tataw Obi]

I may not have used all the different types of welding sticks,but to my experience,6013 is fair for general welding and for solid welded joints,I recommend 7018, precisely OK48 type

[Bandit30019]

7018 is the rod of choice do to the looks and strength of the welder. I stick welding all the time and never had any problems.
I recommend lincoln xcalaber there's a big difference in the brand of rods you use.

[DennisCA]

If you are an occasional welder and want to get down to one rod, my vote would be 7018-3/32

This is what I am and what I use, though I also got 20lbs of cheapo 1/8 7018 rods with my welder when I bought it used. I think the bigger ones are easier to weld with. Not sure if this is just a personal quirk or if bigger is better?

[Lightning]

I like 1/8" 6010 and 7018 but I don't use any inverter machines, just transformers and an engine drive. YMMV.

[weldin mike 27]

In Australia, We have 6012s they are nice to use and can run vertical down. The slag freezes quickly and doesn't get in the way like what happens with some people and 6013s.

Mick

[MosquitoMoto]

In Australia, We have 6012s they are nice to use and can run vertical down. The slag freezes quickly and doesn't get in the way like what happens with some people and 6013s.

Mick

Mick, by this do you mean Satincraft 13's?

I'm not much of a stick welder but these are my 'go to' rod. They just seem to behave no matter what you do.


Kym

[weldin mike 27]

Cigweld Satin craft 13s are 6013, blue flux as you know. which give the associated slag swirling problem. Cigwelds 6012 are called 12xp and have a red flux. One little number wouldnt seem like a major change, but its a biggy.

[MosquitoMoto]

Cigweld Satin craft 13s are 6013, blue flux as you know. which give the associated slag swirling problem. Cigwelds 6012 are called 12xp and have a red flux. One little number wouldnt seem like a major change, but its a biggy.

Thanks Mick.

Funny, I'm using inverters and the 6013 (Satincraft 13) rods really do work a treat. In fact I had my first ever perfect slag peel/lift off using these rods.

Which of course makes me eager to try the 6012/12XP's because if they are even better I'd be delighted.

Don't do a lot of stick welding but when I do it's nice to be able to just speak sternly to the slag and watch it lift off with nary a scratch needed.

Thanks for the tip.



Kym

[weldin mike 27]

Kym I'm glad that you have no problem with slag. One issue to tick off the list of welding issues. (That said, satincraft 13s are about as good as it gets.) Strangely i have had nothing but trouble with cigweld 13s (Thirteen S) blue and white stripe. Always seem terrible.

[Drunken Moose]

I bought some 7018 3/32 from one LWS (which i won't be going back to) and get home to find out they were not hermetically sealed. Didn't feel like heading back out so went forward anyways. They stuck and sputtered and were a PITA to start up, but once the heat got in them they ran not bad. I wasn't worried since it was non-critical welds. Reconditioning them requires somewhere between 500-600F. I've heard of some using a kitchen oven, but most don't go that high, and not sure what type of smell you may get (I often roast oak and dry grains for malt for my other hobby, so they SOH doesn't even ask what i'm up to anymore.

I like the idea mentioned above of a sealed container with desicant packets. I would imagine if you have one of those home vacuum sealing things that for long term storage one of those with some desicant would work great as well.

Most guys on farms and stuff will keep 6010 (6011) on hand since as mentioned it is great for blasting through rust, paints, etc so if your repairs or small jobs are going to be a lot of "dirty" metal, that is something to keep in mind.

Take my advice with a grain of salt . . . i'm still green . . . tons of book smart, but have a ways to go with real world experience that others here have.