Hey everyone, just bought a Chicago Electric 225AC stick welder(for messing with on my off time) and picked up some 1/8 6013 rods since I learned about the 7018 AC/DC issue. I know you get what you pay for and it was only 230.00 but I've never experienced arc pulses before. Striking an arc is no problem but after a few seconds into the bead the machine seems to "pulse" and I'll lose my arc for a second or two, then it comes back for a few more seconds before doing it again. Any ideas?
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You may have to switch to a smaller rod. I had to use a no name small buzz box to do a small emergency repair once and found I couldn't keep a good arc going for more than about half a rod with 1/8. Switched to 3/32 and it did ok.
I have more questions than answers
Josh
Josh
I'm gonna go on a limb and say you're too cold. Run into this problem once in a while when the person doesn't turn it up to what I ask. Itll weld but it sits on top and is very easy to snuff the arc out. I get down from the lift or wherever I am and have to turn it up 15-20 amps and it runs beautifully.
Country isn't country unless it's classic.
WeirdoDrummer23
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- Otto Nobedder
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I'd be hotter. AC requires you to be about 30% hotter than you'd use for the same rod on DC.
135-150A.
Give it a go, and report back.
Steve S
135-150A.
Give it a go, and report back.
Steve S
WeirdoDrummer23
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WeirdoDrummer23
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WeirdoDrummer23
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I'm able to tie in okay and the beads end up looking fairly good but it can't be normal for a machine to do that
WeirdoDrummer23
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I also took the cover off and made sure all connections were tight, still no improvement. Does it on all heat settings.
- Otto Nobedder
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It sounds like you have "Chinese Machine Syndrome".
Harbor Freight has a no-questions-asked return/exchange policy. Go get another.
Steve S
Harbor Freight has a no-questions-asked return/exchange policy. Go get another.
Steve S
WeirdoDrummer23
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Okay, new evidence: I swapped out the machine and had the same problem; HOWEVER, I found that the rods that come with the machine run like butter they are grey E6013 rods and I bought brown 6013 without the E in front. What's the difference?
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- DLewis0289
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If I was stuck on a deserted island and was forced to us a Buzz Box, the ONLY rods I would use to maintain sanity would be MG-500's.......period.
AWS D1.1 / ASME IX / CWB / API / EWI / RWMA / BSEE
Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
- Otto Nobedder
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Brand is the primary difference, and the different color suggests a different flux composition.WeirdoDrummer23 wrote:Okay, new evidence: I swapped out the machine and had the same problem; HOWEVER, I found that the rods that come with the machine run like butter they are grey E6013 rods and I bought brown 6013 without the E in front. What's the difference?
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All the "E" means is "electrode", and using it is redundant, since it's written on the electrode.
Steve S
WeirdoDrummer23
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That's what's weird. They're both 1/8 6013. One runs normal and the other like jiffy pop. I'm glad it's not the machine but this kinda raises more questions than it answers
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Try putting the "jiffy pop" rods in the oven at 250*F for a couple hours. They may be moist.
Failing that, throw them out and buy good quality rod.
Steve S
Failing that, throw them out and buy good quality rod.
Steve S
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