Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Coldman
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And when you do your welds make sure you have a picture of a snow topped mountain hanging on the wall behind you.:) :) :)
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
VincenzioVonHook
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Coldman wrote:Or online bobthewelder.com.au
INE 55B rods
or i could stop being such an impatient bastard and order them in.....only takes 3 days and saves on shipping! It's not like in need them in a hurry. I'm just feeling ostracized sitting here with my stacks of 6013/7014........
Bill Beauregard
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I can't bring myself to buy a rod oven. They use too much energy. I don't use stick that much. Wire is another low hydrogen technique. In my case, I buy a small sealed box for a specific project, and use a Food Saver vacuum sealer on part of the box. This keeps it dryer than atmospheric storage.

I have wondered about a sealed chamber for it, pull a hard vacuum on it to remove moisture, and store it under vacuum. As is, I store mine in the attic of my garage. It's HOT in summer, and warmer than outdoor in winter. A good sealed rod box would be better than nothing.
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On my facebook page, Heaps of tradies swear by WIA 16tcs. They are Hydrogen controlled but with out iron powder.

Mick
Revocide
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Can anyone show me an example of a 6013 vertical weld?

I in theory still have my noobie wheels on and cant run any verticals with 6013. I found the slag too fluid and the puddle just flowed away with it.

Tried with 2.5 and 3.2 mm rods with low amps on 5 and 8 mm plate. Still no joy.

7016 however...

Not pretty vertcal up but atleast possible.

Revo
Bill Beauregard
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I've never run a decent vertical with 6013. I take it I'm not that skilled.
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Revocide - I find 7018, 7014, 6013 all run similar vertical up for me.

Have not seen a 7016 so I don't know how it would differ.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Antorcha
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Poland308 wrote:http://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/U ... /c2410.pdf

Answers to rod questions from the rod gods.
You mean the "rod marketing"Gawdz.
One problem 'mercans have with 6013 is they're under the illusion it's "ona them thar draggin' rods".
The second is all you can find at the innumerable xxxDespot or xxxMart...or xxxR~us or any place else that sell prostate stimulators,fuzzy slippers soda pop, NASCAR mugs and welding supplies in the same isle is two fold.
Lincoln. Hobart.

Get a proper 6013, the correct flavor for the task at hand and hold an arc like a normal human and you'll get a decent penetrating and solid weld.

Matter of fact a REAL welder with a REAL 6013 in hand will glue a trailer together that's a Hell of a lot better than the mass produced crap 'mercans buy at Bawbz trailers for less(pay me by the month).
I won't even start on truck bodies and roof racks "MIG'd" together with what appears to be a battery powered caulk gun run by Stevie Wonder. :lol:
Happy Saturday !
VincenzioVonHook
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Antorcha wrote:
Poland308 wrote:http://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/U ... /c2410.pdf

Answers to rod questions from the rod gods.
You mean the "rod marketing"Gawdz.
One problem 'mercans have with 6013 is they're under the illusion it's "ona them thar draggin' rods".
The second is all you can find at the innumerable xxxDespot or xxxMart...or xxxR~us or any place else that sell prostate stimulators,fuzzy slippers soda pop, NASCAR mugs and welding supplies in the same isle is two fold.
Lincoln. Hobart.

Get a proper 6013, the correct flavor for the task at hand and hold an arc like a normal human and you'll get a decent penetrating and solid weld.

Matter of fact a REAL welder with a REAL 6013 in hand will glue a trailer together that's a Hell of a lot better than the mass produced crap 'mercans buy at Bawbz trailers for less(pay me by the month).
I won't even start on truck bodies and roof racks "MIG'd" together with what appears to be a battery powered caulk gun run by Stevie Wonder. :lol:
Happy Saturday !
Come to think of it, why does the auto industry have such f****** disgusting welds on chassis (or in general)? I looked under my and a few mates hilux/navara's and so on and it looks like some c*** has literally blown his load all over certain joints at a random, inconsistant rate, let it dry and then painted over it. Im pretty sure most are robotic welds as well..........come to think of it, when you go an a car enthusiast site and they are showing off their welds on panel, or seat, or anything in that case, it looks like shit. Is it a prerequisite to be shit at fusing and filling metal if you want to be good at the mechanical side of things?

I have a fair few trade qualified mechanics for mates, they have been welding at work for years and it still looks like they are rubbing nose balls on steel and painting over it......
plain ol Bill
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"
Nobody prefers using 7018. It wants to stick." = really?
7018 is my rod of choice by far. But then a truck tractor would not carry as much 7018 as I have burned either. Mostly these days however I am using MIG primarily in my shop.
Tired old welder
CNC plasma cutter
Colorful shop w/
Red, blue, yellow, purple, and Hypertherm silver equip.
ex framie
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Why such crap metals for welding
Cost.
Weight
Strength vs weight.
Cars only have to last 10 years
Pete

God gave man 2 heads and only enough blood to run 1 at a time. Who said God didn't have a sense of humour.....
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ex framie wrote:Why such crap metals for welding
Cost.
Weight
Strength vs weight.
Cars only have to last 10 years
Cars have to last ten years these days? Have they improved? ;)

Cars used to be designed to scrape through the warranty period without giving too much trouble (costing the dealer/manufacturer too much money) but I think since learning that many people only hold on to a car for about 18 months before 'upgrading' to something newer, manufacturers are configuring the trouble-free period to something closer to that.



Kym
ex framie
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Warrenties are currently between 1 and 7 years.
By legislation they have to support the vehicle for 10 years.
The warrenty period seems to be the minimum time period a vehicle will last with minimal maintenance, what the car companies call the log book service.
The wife has a nissan xtrail, over the 120,000 km and 6 years of the service logbook there is nowhere in that book that calls for an oil change in the cvt gearbox, but you can look for leaks.
Does anyone know of an oil that does what the oil does in a cvt that will last the distance without degradation? Apparently its in the xtrail.
Pete

God gave man 2 heads and only enough blood to run 1 at a time. Who said God didn't have a sense of humour.....
Coldman
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I work a mazda bt50 diesel auto. Manual says change transmission fluid at 150,000km. At 90,000km transmission packs it in. Mazda service say they have no authorised repair protecol for transmissions only replacement $10,000 please. I took it to a transmission repairer who flushed it, replaced solenoid block and adjusted belts. $1200 all good. The fluid was all burned and he said these transmissions need servicing every 20,000km. Auto club tech said vehicle manufacturers specify crazy service intervals as a sales gimmick.
Flat out like a lizard drinkin'
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That last one made me feel good and bad at the same time, My Kia g carnival auto packed in at 60000, out of warranty. only 6k to replace though. Howerver, the guy who did it also builds race gearboxes, so Im assuming he would have fixed if possible. Unless i have fallen for a scam or possibly a scamola.....whoooo 6013 whoo
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To continue the thread jack...

I don't like auto trans. I especially don't like CVT's! I can rebuild a manual if I need to but I don't know my way around autos so I stay away from them, also because I just plain don't like the way most of them drive.

I have an anonymous Holden (Isuzu) frontera. Never given me any trouble at all except a starter motor needed replacing. I replaced the timing belt almost 100,000 kays later than I should have. The car's next big birthday is 400,000 kays. I'm loathe to replace it with anything newer simply because nothing ever goes wrong with it!


Kym
Cran
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Revocide wrote:Can anyone show me an example of a 6013 vertical weld?

I in theory still have my noobie wheels on and cant run any verticals with 6013. I found the slag too fluid and the puddle just flowed away with it.

Tried with 2.5 and 3.2 mm rods with low amps on 5 and 8 mm plate. Still no joy.

7016 however...

Not pretty vertcal up but atleast possible.

Revo
1/4" Plate, 100amps DC vertical up with 3.2mm CIGWELD Satincraft 13 (a common 6013 rod down here)
Not saying it's perfect, but they work ok.

Cran
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100amps DC vertical up with 3.2mm 6013
100amps DC vertical up with 3.2mm 6013
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